A Thunder Mug for Zulu - Graybeard Outdoors
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post #1 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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Default A Thunder Mug for Zulu

Since the stealth aspect of this mug build was exposed, I am starting a public build thread with this post. Hope you find it of use. Just for the record, this started in early July 2015. Here is the drawing; you can judge how closely the end product matches the design at the end of the thread.





The piece of steel started as a rem(nant) of hot rolled 1020. One common feature of hot rolled steel is it is not truly round like cold rolled steel, so if you want a truly round finished object, you have to turn off all the irregularities, which has been done here. The actual cut in progress is for the base ring.

The lathe is my '40's era LeBlond 17x54 with its new Chinese four jaw chuck (which has worked real well so far.)

GG
“If you're not a liberal at 20, you have no heart; if you're not a conservative at 40, you have no brain.”
--Winston Churchill

Last edited by GGaskill; 02-13-2017 at 03:27 AM.
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post #2 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
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I have turned the workpiece around and am using the already cut straight section for the base ring to hold the workpiece to turn the other end. Since my lathe does not have a taper attachment, I am trial and error aligning the compound rest to cut the taper. Once it is good enough, I will rough off the metal with straight cuts until close to the largest dimensions, then start doing the tapered sections.

GG
“If you're not a liberal at 20, you have no heart; if you're not a conservative at 40, you have no brain.”
--Winston Churchill

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post #3 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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I have rough cut the various steps here, removing metal down to the top of the preceding band. The first course (the small diameter section closest to the tail stock) is finish tapered. This is probably going to have a lathe file finish. If you would like it to look like a casting, it should be sand blasted with some fairly coarse sand.

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post #4 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:04 AM Thread Starter
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I have finished the tapers in each section, leaving square bands. Next step is to round the corners on the bands; then drill the bore and finish the reverse taper at the muzzle. Then switch end for end and round the bottom corner. Then we will start on the base ring.

GG
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--Winston Churchill
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post #5 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:11 AM Thread Starter
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The bands are now rounded using left and right form cutting tools. It is interesting how this big chunk of steel had no chatter when cutting the band curved edges.

The cylindrical section at the muzzle is now riding in the steady rest. I have drilled about 5" of 27/64" pilot hole for the bore. The pilot hole takes longer to drill than the full bore since one has to stop every 1/8" and extract the chips. And now that I am beyond the reach of the tail stock, it will take even longer, since I have to pull the tailstock out after each cut to clear the chips.

GG
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post #6 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
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I am starting to drill the 1 1/2" bore. As I mentioned, even though more metal is being removed, this goes faster than the pilot hole because the chips come out easier.



The bore is complete. Still need to drill the vent, chamfer the muzzle and form the reverse tapered muzzle band. Then onto the other pieces.

GG
“If you're not a liberal at 20, you have no heart; if you're not a conservative at 40, you have no brain.”
--Winston Churchill

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post #7 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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The muzzle is chamfered and the reverse tapered band is done; the body is finished except for the vent. This part weighs 46 pounds and is 10 3/4" high. Looks impressive in person.

Base is next.

GG
“If you're not a liberal at 20, you have no heart; if you're not a conservative at 40, you have no brain.”
--Winston Churchill

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post #8 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
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This is the base ring; it started as a 1.5" thick plate cut from an 8" round. First I drilled and bored the central hole which will shrink fit to the bottom of the mug body. The I put the chuck jaws on the inside and turned the outside to the correct diameter. Now I am turning the bevel; it needs to go to almost the central hole diameter.



Turns out that that didn't quite clear the tops of the chuck jaws so a small ridge was left from this operation. Not a problem; it will get cleaned up in the next operation.


GG
“If you're not a liberal at 20, you have no heart; if you're not a conservative at 40, you have no brain.”
--Winston Churchill
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post #9 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:53 AM Thread Starter
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I turned the base ring around so the edge was away from the chuck, recentered with an indicator, and cut the radius with a form tool and finished it with a lathe file. Machining is finished on the base ring



and mug body including drilling the vent. I shimmed the body in the milling vise and drilled it in the Bridgeport.



Here is a top view (with a little piece of debris at the bottom):


GG
“If you're not a liberal at 20, you have no heart; if you're not a conservative at 40, you have no brain.”
--Winston Churchill

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post #10 of 75 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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The next piece to make is the vent field. It is a little piece with two angled cuts and two radiused cuts. I did the round cuts with a ball nosed end mill.



It will be welded to the base ring and body at the vent.

GG
“If you're not a liberal at 20, you have no heart; if you're not a conservative at 40, you have no brain.”
--Winston Churchill
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