McWoodduck, the guy has a colt repro with a brass frame. He has to take it easy on the gun if he ever wants to reload the cylinder.
The weak point is the place where the cylinder pin screw into the brass frame. Once that goes loose, you are pretty much screwed.
Since you have a full size cylinder and chambers it is absolutely best to use reduced loads. All the bravado crap in the world will do you no good if the cylinder pin goes down range with the barrel.
Some folks don't use any lube. With a brass frame, you need as little force hammering the barrel and cylinder pin as possible. Lube on top the ball at the chamber mouth will help that slightly. Generic Shortening is cheap and as long as the temps are 85 or under, should work ok. I found some stuff years ago called "pistol patch" which works great. Nearly anything about the consistency of vaseline or lanolin will work.
Yep it gets messy. Do you want the gun to last? And I never suggested MIXING anything with the powder. The powder goes down first and then a layer of corn meal or Cream of Wheat (out of the box, not cooked) then seat the ball. You want the powder and filler to take up all but enough room to seat the balls just below the mouth of the chambers. With no voids behind the ball. Yeah, I shoot a ruger old army with substantially hotter loads than I would ever suggest you try in your gun.
Lube in a standard steel frame repro is more of a personal choice. If you ever attend a skirmish like the one at Ft Shenadoah, you will see some of the top cap and ball shooters in the country. I've been there a few times. The better shooters all lube on top the ball.
Not using a lube allows fouling to stick to the bore and with each successive shot cakes up the bore and affects accuracy.