Ejector/cylinder/extractor disassembly... same as Smith?

[Oh dan e-boy]

Hi guys... and gals.

Ed here, new guy, great forum.

I am changing out a few springs and getting ready for a new finish on my model 14/357. I have it all apart except the Ejector/cylinder/extractor assembly. I am wodering how to procede on this part. Does it come apart like Smiths do. Usually just lock the ejector rod in the vice and genly persuade it in either direction until is comes. or I have noticed a spanner type slot under the extractor; is this what needs to be loosened to disassemble?

Thanks for any advice.

Ed

[GrantCunningham]

Pretty easy, actually.

If you haven't already, remove the crane/cylinder assembly from the gun. Get a minimum of 3 fired cases, and insert them into the chambers. Clamp the ejector rod in such a manner that it will not be damaged (brass or plastic vise jaws are ideal for this, though padding a standard vise with a piece of leather works as well.)

Once firmly clamped, simply turn the cylinder counter-clockwise (the normal direction to unscrew something), and the ejector rod will be free from the cylinder. You can pull out the ejector rod, and remove the cylinder from the crane.

Coming out the front of the cylinder is the ejector spring, which should have a little collar on the end. (If it doesn't, check the ejector rod to see if it's stuck there; look inside the cylinder tube on the crane; if not in any of those places, start looking on the floor for it!) You can pull the spring directly out; it is a light press fit onto the ejector star stem. Finally, pull the ejector star from the back of the cylinder. You should be left with just the cylinder, crane, ejector rod, collar, spring, and ejector star - it's a very simple mechanism.

Assembly, of course, in the reverse order.

Hope this helps!

[RollTide]

Thanks Grant for taking time to explain.  We are indeed fortunate to have a master gunsmith like Grant Cunningham to help us with these types of issues.  He is an excellent gun smith on revolvers, and on DW revolvers in particualr his is the best gunsmith I know of.

Thanks again Grant.

Roll Tide

[unspellable]

So long as we are on the subject, what's the correct end shake spec for the DWs?  How is it reduced?  Washers like a S&W?  If so, where to get them?

[Waldo Pepper]

Call DW in NY and ask for Kieth Lawton and he could probably get the answer for you if its not some kind of company secret. I would not attempt it unless you know what you are doing, the factory charge will be about $100 most likely for a repair like that is my guess.