Large Frame timing issue

[kgb]

I'm looking at a like-new, blued, Monson-built .41 Mag for $400, the only issue is with the timing.  The thing looks to have been shot rarely if ever, but in thumbing back the hammer I found the cylinder not fully rotating a few times in a dozen.  This happened a couple times in double action as well, although the seller couldn't get it to misalign like that.  I'm wondering if the tolerances between the notches (which are curved) and the ratchet mechanism are too light.  Is this hard to fix? 

kgb

[Steel Shooter]

It's difficult to answer that question without examining the gun. I'd recommend sending it to Dan Wesson's service dept, who provide excellent work at a fair price (I have dealt with them before).
It may be a problem with the length of the "hand", or the way the end of the hand is shaped....or it could be the way the ratchet was cut originally (if you're sure it's been used very little), or just wear on the ratchet or hand, or both. And then, there is the geometry of the part that lifts the hand.

Let us know how it turns out.

[kgb]

Got it home and took it apart.  No crud, no anything at all inside and nearly no wear.  The timing is such that the bolt does not rise until the cutouts appear; there's no drag mark around the cylinder which is a good thing!  I see that the cylinder is given a pretty good initial shove, though, and can spin past the bolt before it catches the notch.  There's a slight drag to the bolt's movement but I don't want to change its dimensions as that would probably affect lockup.  The bolt does seem to have weak pressure behind it, way less than I've seen in Colts, at least, and a heavier pressure might get it in place just that little bit quicker to catch the notch each time.

I've got a 1981 Guns and Ammo special by Bob Milek that shows how to take these things apart, and it's pretty clear.  Worked for me, at least!  He described how to lighten the SA trigger pull a little by cutting a turn off of the trigger return spring, but I think I'll try to find a replacement spring before messing with this one if I think it needs lightening.

This gun has got a longer cylinder than my 657, so the 265gr LFN should work just fine as it fits the Smith already.  Heavy gun, even though it's just a standard Vent 6".  Would like to see how a VH8 changes the balance, does anyone know if it's okay to install a stainless barrel on a blued gun?

Also, I got an RCBS 210gr Keith type mould from the same shop that sold me the gun.  Looks to be a flat base bullet and it's got a rather small lube groove.  How does that mould rate among Keith styles for the .41?

kgb

[David Carey]

does anyone know if it's okay to install a stainless barrel on a blued gun?

kgb

You can put either on blued or stainless guns, I even think that the factory has only been shipping stainless barrels the last blued set I ordered had a stainless barrel. The shrouds also fit either gun.

Dave

[kgb]

Well, the DW shoots well enough, and even put my CP 250's and 265's into the same group.  However, all shooting was single action, carefully watching the cylinder to make sure it indexed each cylinder.  I wound up spending more time with my other .41's, and hunted with the T/C and Smith.  Don't believe I'll keep it, just chalk it up as a chance to own a big-frame DW.  Look in the classifieds soon!