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Author Topic: Why bed the forend?  (Read 553 times)
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DsrtRat
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« on: February 25, 2009, 09:16:06 AM »

Why are some people bedding a good part of the forend with either silicone or other things? I am building e new forend and currently have a 2 contact points. The stud and a bit of contact at the back end, which when the screw is tightened, keeps the section forward of the lug floating. I have a metal washer for the lug to ensure same height every time I remove/re-attach the forend. Should I be considering bedding the section from the back of the forend to the stud?

Just curious as to why people have been bedding the forend. I was under the impression that the more floating there is, the better. or is this something that applies the barrel forward of the stud?
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cwlongshot
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« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2009, 09:59:48 AM »

  Every gun and barrel are duifferent. Some respond very well to a free floated forend. Others scatter bullets whilly nilly with out some support. While others still do best floated, then bedded for somplete even contact. One thing is fairly consistant and that is good CONSISTANT bedding is key to accuracy. As long as all things are equil and even usually you will get good results.

 So try what you have and see how it shoots. If you think you can improve, try the bedding in the back behind the stud. The RTV is pretty easy and if it dosen't work or you dont like it. It can be removed. If you want a more substantial bedding there are many products out there that will fit the bill.

 Remember, CONSISTANCY is key to good shooting. It covers everything, Rifle, shotgun, pistol even archery. From the trigger break to your own breathing to the stocks bedding and even shouldering and trigger control after the shot. Consistancy in all will make you a better shot.

CW

CW
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NRA LIFE Member  Diligo pacis, teneo (censored word).
heftylefty
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« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2009, 10:16:03 AM »

I have a question here...I have a free floating forearm on my .308 (still a work in progress). I am hoping for a good shooter when this project is finished. Has anyone ever tried the other extreme...Bedding the whole forearm so that the barrel fits tight all the way down the forearm??? My 45-70 is new and it just about came that way. The forearm is a tight fit but probably does not touch on the very bottom of the barrel. So far it's an OK shooter 2.5 to 3" at 100 yds. I heard this caliber in Handi is capable of much better. I was just wondering what would happen if you bed this one all the way?
« Last Edit: February 25, 2009, 04:01:16 PM by heftylefty » Logged
cwlongshot
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« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2009, 10:28:41 AM »

Unfortuneately with a completely bedded forend, you wont know until you do it. Done properly, it shouldn't hurt.

I would suggest the washer/"O" Ring trick first. Maybe even a few shots with NO forend as a test.

CW
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"Pay heed to the man who carries a single shot rifle,
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DsrtRat
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« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2009, 12:40:19 PM »

Good info as always CW. I think I will complete the stock and try shooting it. If it doesn't group as well as my original, I will try bedding the first stage of the forend.

cheers

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JerryKo
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« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2009, 03:11:59 PM »

I have bedded just the the lug and forearm spacer to get a very good consistent forearm fit with out needing a washer or o-ring to float the barrel.  It worked for me.

Jerry
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DsrtRat
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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2009, 03:17:34 PM »

Wjat did you bed it with Jerry?
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JerryKo
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« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2009, 03:41:34 PM »

I might be spelling it wrong, but I call it Permapoxy.  its a two part putty.  Cut some off neede it together and stuff it where you want it.  Its sandable, paintable, and able to be tapped.  Sets up real quick, about 5 mins then leave  24hrs before messing with.  I like putty stuff better than liquid.  Less mess.  I've used it to "shim" a barrel also.  Lower pressure round(357 mag), but has held up great.  I got it at Tractor Supply, but I think I've seen it at Wal-Mart too.

To each his own. Roll Eyes

Jerry
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DsrtRat
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« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2009, 03:57:06 PM »

They have it here locally. When you left it, did you leave directly on the barrel or did you press it to get the shape and then remove the barrel? The ad for it says 3100PSI holding pressure. I don't want a permanent barrel/stock weld.
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cwlongshot
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« Reply #9 on: February 25, 2009, 04:08:44 PM »

They have it here locally. When you left it, did you leave directly on the barrel or did you press it to get the shape and then remove the barrel? The ad for it says 3100PSI holding pressure. I don't want a permanent barrel/stock weld.

 You just need to add a release agent to what ever you do NOT want the epoxy to stick to. May things work, Car wax, Pam cooking spray are a couple people have used.

CW
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JerryKo
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« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2009, 07:03:55 PM »

Thanks CW,

Just lube what you dont want to stick.  I pressed enough in the cutout for the lug, pressed in the barrel let it set a little then gently lift the forearm off to trim the excess.  For the spacer I didnt have to remove anything just trimmed as it set.  A little trick is to keep a little excess and test firmness on that extra piece to know when its hard enough to hold and stick together and not come apart on ya.  Goodluck!



Jerry
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« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2009, 11:24:37 AM »

DR,

here is what I have. And I used the liquid epoxy once to fill holes in another forearm for the spacer screws, but it didn't work as good as the putty product.
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DsrtRat
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« Reply #12 on: March 03, 2009, 03:39:03 PM »

Which is the putty product? I purchased an Elmers 2 part epoxy (that's what they had) and the test run shows some pretty solid material. Is the small white tube on the right the putty type stuff?
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« Reply #13 on: March 03, 2009, 04:33:43 PM »

sorry. Yes. The one on the right is the putty.
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« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2009, 04:44:06 PM »

OK, that makes more sense. I was looking at the 2 stage stuff and thinking "How did he mold this stuff by hand"? Hehe
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