Is Cub Cadet Riding Lawn mowers Any Good ? - Page 7 - Graybeard Outdoors
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post #61 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 10:23 AM
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This second hand Deere dealer on Craigslist in Portland has what seems to be pretty good info on buying a used Deere.

Tim

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/...880980020.html

There are many John Deere riding mowers available. They all look similar, so what's the difference? What's right for you? I hope this helps. Just remember, John Deere sells millions of mowers, some have lasted 25 years and they're still going strong.
Why is a 17 year old machine still worth $2500.00? Because a new one of equal quality is $5000.00 or more. The better quality LX, GT and GX machines can easily last 25 to 30 years if they're properly maintained, just like your car.

Box Store (entry level quality)machines:

Good for 1 acre or less.
The first were the "l" series, Then LA, and now D
Look for one with a Kohler Single or Twin, or the Briggs twin 22 hp or less.
If you have hills avoid these altogether, they have small transmissions and were made for you flatlanders.
Plan on a deck rebuild at about 300 hrs.
LT Series, Slightly better than the L, good for smaller lawns.
LTR- One word-problematic. One of the best finish mowers ever built because the blades overlap, easy to trim on either side. Don't hit anything sizable. It has a cogged timing belt that costs $100.00 plus two hours labor, it's their achilles heal.

Dealer Mowers:
Heavy duty, high quality.
LX 100 series machines are getting older and may need some repairs since most of them may have 800 plus hrs. Theses are excellent machines and can easily last 4000 hrs with regular maintenance. Most people prefer the water cooled Kawasaki LX 178 and LX188. They have good serviceable transmissions and excellent quality decks.

LX200 series machines are later improved versions of the 100 series. The main differences are engine type. Single or twin, Kohler or Kawasaki. All of these used the 42" or 48" "C" ("convertible", mulching or standard) deck. Which have greasable spindles that last forever. Usually a Kawasaki engine and a hefty transmission. If you just need a good lawnmower they don't get much better.

GT Series: The GT series is a true garden tractor with large bolt on rear wheels, bigger front tires
and a massive transmission. A bigger transmission means faster ground speed and improved operator
comfort. These are similar to the x500. Capable of mowing and tilling, excellent for hilly property.

300 Series: Early 300 (316, 318)series tractors are as tough as a small tractor can be. They have a frame the size of a ford pickup, cast iron engine and large shaft drive hydro trans.
The 325 and 345 came later, a garden tractor that is a bit more like a riding lawnmower. Still capable of mowing and tilling but not as overbuilt.

The 345 came with the renowned "Big Block" Kawasaki water cooled engine. It features power steering and lots of grunt despite the 18hp rating. Very smooth operation because it weighs 800 lbs.

GX345: My favorite of the bunch, 20HP water-cooled Kawasaki uses a double v belt to drive the massive transmission. Super fast and smooth. Capable of running a 54" deck with ease.

425, 445, 455 garden tractors are highly sought after. They feature Kawasaki 20hp Gas or Yanmar Diesel engines, shaft drive hydro trans and 48", 54" or 60" commercial quality deck. Excellent for finish or rough field mowing. Capable of running tillers, optional 3 point category zero, rear pto, dual hydraulics for deck lift, power steering, or even a bucket loader.

Many of these machines have All Wheel Steering, it nearly cuts the turning radius in half. Excellent for trees and sharp corners.
If you find one for sale I would highly recommend them. It takes some serious linkages to turn the front and rear wheels at the same time. These parts do wear so maintenance costs are higher but well worth it in my opinion.

ZTR or Zero Turning Radius mowers are fast but were really built for bigger lawns. While they turn on a dime there's a price to pay, turn too sharply and you'll damage your lawn. While they don't have a lot of problems, when they do repairs can mean big $$$$. These machines are really built fo the pros, they're very fast but the ride is very firm.


If you have rough ground to mow buy a garden tractor, your kidneys will thank you.

Maintenance: Besides the obvious oil changes (every 25 hrs) there are also other things that go unnoticed until it's too late.
Think of your mower like you would your car and it will last you a lifetime.
1)Clean the mower deck after you mow to prevent rusting of your deck. It's not unusual to see decks with quarter size holes rusted through. At that point repairs are excessive. Grass holds moisture and causes serious rust. Take the deck off and scrape it with a putty knife occasionally.
2)Don't ignore any fluid leaks. Oil and coolant leaks are the #1 cause of engine failure.
3) Check your air filter, you like to breathe, so does your mower.
4) Check belts for fraying and cuts.
5) Grease zircs occasionally, especially front and rear steering as well as deck spindles.
6) Check all rotating parts, If you're hearing any unusual noises it's usually because an idler bearing is bad.

"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" - Mark Twain
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post #62 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drilling Man View Post
Here's some mower facts...


Most is not all the lower end mowers are now throwaways, the hydro's are sealed and the mowers have more bushings in them then bearings.


Most brands today use the same brand of hydro, but there are several levels of strength/quality of those hydro's, If the rear "wheels" aren't bolted on like a car, the hydro's is NOT a stronger higher quality hydro no matter what brand it's on.


Kohler, B&S ect. all are now having their motors "that go into these cheaper lawn tractors" made in china! Yes, even Kohler... All of the china builds seem about equal these days...


Cub Cadet, like most brands today aren't what they use to be! I would rank Husqvarna higher quality, better built mower and if you would go up the scale a bit more, I'd buy a John Deere instead.


Today, high quality lawn tractors that are built to last cost REAL money, like over 5k real money!


Lastly, I call BS on 13,000 hours on a lawn tractor, I mean unless you have an accurate hr meter on it for proof, it's nothing but a wild guess!


DM
Uh huh....6hrs per mowing at the farm 1/2 hr mowing at the house X 21 mowings per year X 10 years = 1,365 hrs. I just went and took a good look. It's 1,348 hours. I done added a zero that didn't need to be. Your BS call is warranted! I stand corrected! If it were 13,000 hours I'd go buy another one just like it

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post #63 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drilling Man View Post
Here's some mower facts...


Most is not all the lower end mowers are now throwaways, the hydro's are sealed and the mowers have more bushings in them then bearings.


Most brands today use the same brand of hydro, but there are several levels of strength/quality of those hydro's, If the rear "wheels" aren't bolted on like a car, the hydro's is NOT a stronger higher quality hydro no matter what brand it's on.


Kohler, B&S ect. all are now having their motors "that go into these cheaper lawn tractors" made in china! Yes, even Kohler... All of the china builds seem about equal these days...


Cub Cadet, like most brands today aren't what they use to be! I would rank Husqvarna higher quality, better built mower and if you would go up the scale a bit more, I'd buy a John Deere instead.


Today, high quality lawn tractors that are built to last cost REAL money, like over 5k real money!


Lastly, I call BS on 13,000 hours on a lawn tractor, I mean unless you have an accurate hr meter on it for proof, it's nothing but a wild guess!


DM
^^^THAT^^^ is about the truth of it.. I've had my entry level Deere since about 2007..and have something like 257 hours on it !

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post #64 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpa&hisguns View Post
Uh huh....6hrs per mowing at the farm 1/2 hr mowing at the house X 21 mowings per year X 10 years = 1,365 hrs. I just went and took a good look. It's 1,348 hours. I done added a zero that didn't need to be. Your BS call is warranted! I stand corrected! If it were 13,000 hours I'd go buy another one just like it
\
Thanks gpa, for checking it out for us...


DM

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post #65 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 02:46 PM
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These machines are really built fo the pros, they're very fast but the ride is very firm.
If you have rough ground to mow buy a garden tractor, your kidneys will thank you.
The main thing he said that I don't agree with, is the above statement! It really depends on which zero turn you buy!

The zero turns that have the front deck easily out ride a garden or lawn tractor! Here's mine,



The ride while mowing is one of the big selling points of this mower, here's another,



That "power lift" deck sure makes blade checking/sharpening a LOT easier!

I know mowers like this, isn't what the OP is asking about, but I wanted to comment on the above quoted statement.

Bottom line is, if you are going for a cheapo mower, they are all pretty much alike, but I would choose Husqvarna!

Try to put a little more money into buying a mower though...

DM

Lincolns legacy is, he freed the slaves

Obama's legacy will be, he freed the terrorist!

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post #66 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 04:08 PM
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The seat likely makes a big difference in the ride, mine has a pro grade seat which is a heavy SOB to flip up or down.

Tim


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post #67 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 04:15 PM
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We have a new Simplicity zero turn at the school district that has coil springs that smooth up the ride a bunch! Springs look like they came off of my old Springer Harley! It's a heavy built mower too!
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post #68 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 04:22 PM
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Sure a good seat helps, but the hinging is the middle is the BIG help...


DM

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post #69 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 06:28 AM
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ya im sure he meant 1300. 13000 on a truck that averaged 40mph would be the equivalent of 620,000 miles. Don't think theres a law mower motor (at least gas) that would even dream to claim that kind of life. If your mtd mower is anything like the mtd snow blower I stupidly bought 500 would be miraculous
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drilling Man View Post
Here's some mower facts...


Most is not all the lower end mowers are now throwaways, the hydro's are sealed and the mowers have more bushings in them then bearings.


Most brands today use the same brand of hydro, but there are several levels of strength/quality of those hydro's, If the rear "wheels" aren't bolted on like a car, the hydro's is NOT a stronger higher quality hydro no matter what brand it's on.


Kohler, B&S ect. all are now having their motors "that go into these cheaper lawn tractors" made in china! Yes, even Kohler... All of the china builds seem about equal these days...


Cub Cadet, like most brands today aren't what they use to be! I would rank Husqvarna higher quality, better built mower and if you would go up the scale a bit more, I'd buy a John Deere instead.


Today, high quality lawn tractors that are built to last cost REAL money, like over 5k real money!


Lastly, I call BS on 13,000 hours on a lawn tractor, I mean unless you have an accurate hr meter on it for proof, it's nothing but a wild guess!


DM

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Last edited by lloyd smale; 05-11-2019 at 06:32 AM.
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post #70 of 71 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:05 PM
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Well,,,, just a couple pages back I said that I would buy another Cub when the time came.... Yesterday I was contacted by a friend who is a dealer and said he has a demo Gravely 260 with 18 hours on it, he also mowed around his shop with it. Offered me a deal I couldn't pass up, so now the Cub is going up for sale. probably a better plan than running it into the ground as it's still in great shape and should get decent money for it. Looking at the Gravely in comparison, it is a far better build machine, but also is a contractor grade. It's a pretty sweet machine...
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