Best scope base for my H&R Topper 3.5" 12 gauge - Graybeard Outdoors
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-14-2020, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Default Best scope base for my H&R Topper 3.5" 12 gauge

I'm wanting to scope my Topper because my vision is horrible even with my glasses on. What's a good Weaver style base that has multiple slots(more than having only the standard two adjustments) so I can adjust the scope accordingly to keep it tagging me in eye or nose? If it helps anyone recommend a base, I'm getting a good 4x32 scope with a 4" eye relief because it's in my price range. My friend has a Weaver 416 base on his Topper, but it's only a 20 gauge and not the extremely light, beastly 3.5" 12 gauge I'll be trying to hold on to. I'd really appreciate any help you guys can give me.
-Grasshopper
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-14-2020, 03:50 PM
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The best Handi base in my opinion, if you can find one somewhere. Luckily I found out about them before they stopped making them. I did find one not long ago in a gunshop though. So they are out there to be had if you look.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1008934840

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-14-2020, 05:58 PM
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Check with your local gunsmith before going too far. The chamber wall is thin on the 12 ga. Only limited depth holes can be drilled without going all the way through. Some gunsmiths will do it and some won't.

I did a combination of shallow holes and red loctite to hold the base on. The screws had to be shortened so that only a few threads were gripping into the shortened hole depth. Bedding with both screws and epoxy would be even better.

Another option is to solder a steel base on. I think warne makes a steel base.

The final option would be to switch to a 20 ga. barrel which has much thicker chamber walls and is a straight forward drill and tap at normal depth for the screws.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-14-2020, 06:59 PM
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Use a Warne Base for H&R (Weaver style and steel), you can send it to Rose Action Sport and have him silver solder it on. If you need the barrel shorter or threaded for chokes, he can do that too. He installed the Warne base for me last year, so I could use a red dot on my turkey barrel.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-14-2020, 07:04 PM
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I used a Warne steel base and my gunsmith silver solder it on

303 Britt is my favorite Handi!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I spoke to a master gunsmith that's familiar with my gun and he has no problem getting it done and done right, but I'm still going to suggest using epoxy as well as red loctite on the screws just for piece of mind. It's going to be a dedicated turkey gun, with possibly a few deer hunts in there somewhere. My problem is the camo flaking off the chamber during the drilling process, because the fellow I bought it from said it happened to an identical 10 gauge of his, and I want to do everything possible to keep that from happening
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 07:52 AM
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I like the silver solder idea better than shallow base screw holes on a gun that kicks hard. Either way Grasshopper46, I hope you kill the biggest Tom in the woods! Good luck!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-18-2020, 07:07 PM
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Rose Action Sports did some work for me - D/T a 20 gauge barrel on another brand single shot and it came back nice and about a 3 week turn around from when I sent it in. Recommend if you are looking for some to use.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-21-2020, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Default Best scope base for my H&R Topper 3.5"12 gauge

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Originally Posted by Lt. Dave View Post
Check with your local gunsmith before going too far. The chamber wall is thin on the 12 ga. Only limited depth holes can be drilled without going all the way through. Some gunsmiths will do it and some won't.

I did a combination of shallow holes and red loctite to hold the base on. The screws had to be shortened so that only a few threads were gripping into the shortened hole depth. Bedding with both screws and epoxy would be even better.

Another option is to solder a steel base on. I think warne makes a steel base.

The final option would be to switch to a 20 ga. barrel which has much thicker chamber walls and is a straight forward drill and tap at normal depth for the screws.
Lt. Dave, I've been going over and over this in my mind trying to come up with the best, safest, strongest, and aesthetically pleasing solution and I think I've found it. I'd given the use of screws and epoxy together a lot of thought before I made this post and after reading your comment I've come to a decision. Since this is a purpose built turkey gun (possibly a deer gun too with some TSS #4 buckshot, I'm using Winchester Long Beard XR 3" #6's for turkeys with a .665 Kick's GT chok), I'm going to go with your idea plud one of my own by using shallower holes, shorter screws if necessary, red loctite, and a layer of epoxy on the base to make certain it never moves. I got a Truglo Strut and Rut 4x32 scope for it because it's a strong solid scope with good reviews, has a nice diamond reticle, it's very affordable, and most importantly it has between 4.5"-5" eye relief to keep that scope out of my eye since it only weighs about 5.5lbs. I'm also using medium height 4 screw Weaver quad lock rings due to the recoil, even though I don't think it's bad in the least, but the stock hitting my high cheek bone is my only problem with the recoil all because of the direct fit Limbsaver recoil pad I put on it, albeit a very slightly modified Limbsaver, but it took away the biggest majority of the recoil. I'd really love to have the base silver soldered on but I can't because of a few different reasons. First, this gun is very special to me because I've wanted one of the fully camoflaged 3.5" 12 gauge Toppers for many years and wasn't able to make it happen until recently because something always seemed to come up and kept me from getting one until a month or so ago. Second and most importantly, this gun was unfired NIB, which I'd only seen one other of on gunbroker around two years ago and I stopped looking at it when the price hit north of $350, and I don't want to mess up any more of the camo than I absolutely have to just from putting a base on it, which the heat from it being silver soldered on will definitely do, but I have no idea to what extent the heat would damage the camo and I really don't want to take a chance finding out on such a pristine perfect gun. I'm meeting with the gunsmith next week to get it done and I'll make sure to let you know how it worked out. Thanks for your advice and ideas. -Grasshopper
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-21-2020, 07:31 PM
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I believe my screws still have 3-4 threads. The gunsmith will measure the chamber wall thickness and compare that to the minimum required to see how deep he can drill the holes. Then the screws are shortened to match. I attached a photo of a similar mount with an epoxy bedding under the rail. I bought the barrel shown from another member here several years ago. It's held up well as a deer and turkey gun with stiff loads. Usually has a red dot sight on top.
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