The on going search for a better/great H&R/NEF trigger - Graybeard Outdoors
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Default The on going search for a better/great H&R/NEF trigger

Soooooo….. I have spent a number of years trying to figure out how to make these God awful triggers better, if not great. What that means to me is getting the overall trigger pull under 2 lbs and set at 1.5 would be great. I have done all the polishing and filing to the current triggers but to no avail due to the transfer bar. Ya have to pull the transfer bar trigger all the way to the back to get the bar to actuate and that is the part that sucks. I can get the trigger down to where I want it but at that release point the transfer bar will not actuate...…

OK, lets get one thing straight now.... I like light triggers. I have been shooting and hunting with 1.5 lb. set or un set triggers for over 60 years and I know how to handle them. So thats me. I know this is not for everyone.

Here is what I thought. The mechanism inside our guns is not much different then the "tumbler" in a good ML rifle lock. To whit, most good locks are equipped with a "fly" to allow the sear to pass by a half cocked position on the tumbler (in our case that is the lower portion of the hammer. That are that has the cocked notch cut into it. The "fly" allows the sear to pass by this half cocked notch when the trigger is pulled at full cocked but allows the gun to be carried in a half cocked (safety) position otherwise. Sure, the current hammer piece would have to be altered to hit the firing pin but thats no big deal. The deal is to machine in a slot for the fly to fit and make a fly and fit it so that this can happen. A good muzzle loading gunsmith with the right tools should be able to cut for a fly. "Fly's" can be purchased from most all the current lock makers. They are tiny son's of a guns but would make all the difference in the world.

Fact is, I would think a good machinist could duplicate the entire hammer set up with modifications pretty easily. I dont think any changes would need to be made to the springs but I am not sure.

What do ya all think..... Dont shoot the messenger

_____________________________________________
Single shot shooters only shoot once.....

Bruce A. Hering
Program Coordinator/Instructor (Retired)
Southeastern Illinois College
NSCA Level III Instructor

Last edited by Bruce A. Hering; 07-04-2019 at 12:02 AM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 07:36 PM
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Why not then, replace the transfer bar to the old style rebounding hammer?

Real trucks dont have spark plugs.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 08:16 PM
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What Vash said, been there, done that, see the low profile hammer mods 2 in the FAQs.

Tim

"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" - Mark Twain
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quickdtoo View Post
What Vash said, been there, done that, see the low profile hammer mods 2 in the FAQs.

Tim
Tim:

I looked but I guess I am not smart enough to see what's in front of me. Could you reply with direct links to this info ? Additionally in regards to Vash's comment, where would one find and orig. rebounding hammer and is it just a drop in replacement ?

Thanks as always.

_____________________________________________
Single shot shooters only shoot once.....

Bruce A. Hering
Program Coordinator/Instructor (Retired)
Southeastern Illinois College
NSCA Level III Instructor

Last edited by Bruce A. Hering; 07-04-2019 at 12:04 AM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 08:59 AM
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I buy complete receiver innards from Gun Broker and off of eBay. Can usually get complete guts for $35.00 shipped. You can also buy single components from Gun parts corp. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man...-series/158-hr

Real trucks dont have spark plugs.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce A. Hering View Post
Tim:

I looked but I guess I am not smart enough to see what's in front of me. Could you reply with direct links to this info ? Additionally in regards to Vash's comment, where would one find and orig. rebounding hammer and is it just a drop in replacement ?

Thanks as always.
Read the instructions and note at the top of the FAQs page, here's the direct link, unfortunately the additional discussion link on the merit and safety of eliminating the t-bar is dead due to the forum change to google cloud.

Tim

https://www.go2gbo.com/forums/108-h-...tml#post643789

"Always do right, this will gratify some and astonish the rest" - Mark Twain
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 12:38 PM
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Be very careful with your venture. Taking too much off the surface hardened parts isn't advised. I have seen a trigger go from 2lbs to 2oz in a matter of a couple of months. 3lbs is where I would set it and forget it.

Thanks, Dinny

I reload and shoot 348 Win, 358 Win, 6.5 Grendel, 30-06 Springfield, 300 BLK, 44 Mag, 357 Maximum, 9mm, 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 225 Win and 35 Rem
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 01:33 PM
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What Dinny said, I experienced that on my 45-120 BC, I had it at ~2Żlbs IIRC, one day I noticed it seemed real light, checked it with my Lyman digital trigger scale at 21oz, had to replace parts to make it safe. You may be able to reharden the surface on the trigger and hammer after honing, but I don't remember anyone trying it, they're made of sintered metal, dunno if a surface hardening like Kasenit will work. The other issue is with the t-bar it will start having misfires with real light trigger pulls, eliminating the t-bar and using an old rebounding hammer may be a work around, but it may or may not work, Dinny tried it and had problems, but it did work for me on two frames, the 45-120 BC being one of them, I think the other was my 221 Fireball, but I've swapped frames from time to time, that may not have been the original barrel I had on that frame.

Tim

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Tim & Dinny:

Thanks for the info.

I am going to continue to fool around with this trigger stuff. These are great little guns but from my point of view, they deserve a much better trigger.

What ever happened to the member that had made a "Longer" connector which moved the transfer bar sooner then the std trigger mechanism which required you to pull the trigger all the way back ? That may be the best idea I have seen. Saw it here I am sure, but it was several years ago. He had a video I think.

_____________________________________________
Single shot shooters only shoot once.....

Bruce A. Hering
Program Coordinator/Instructor (Retired)
Southeastern Illinois College
NSCA Level III Instructor

Last edited by Bruce A. Hering; 07-15-2019 at 01:07 PM.
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