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H&R 157 Help Please

6K views 42 replies 8 participants last post by  SEK_22Hornet 
#1 ·
Gentleman I write from the land down under, I recently picked up a 157 in 22 magnum in great condition. Unfortunately I am afflicted with 5mm Remington Rimfire Magnum syndrome which there seems to be no cure.

I would love to turn this rifle into a switch barrel, from s/n I believe it was made in 1976

So to make a 5mm rem how best to go about, I really don't want loose the 22 mag barrel by stubbing or sleeving is it possible to buy a 20 cal barrel chamber and have the bottom rib fitted.

I'm a H&R virgin so please be gentle lol I would greatly appreciate any advice

John
 
#2 ·
HELLO!

Crazy we are speaking from Other sides of the world!!

Welcome to the addiction! We used ta say that there was no cure... Then H&R/NEF CLOSED... Kinda a cold turkey cure for most of us...


Best way I can think of a stub job. Find a 12/20 ga and go to it. As 20/5mm is smaller and one was never factory made I have herd of. Its all that comes to mind for me. It will require a new barrel.

Please post up the process!

Good luck!

CW
 
#3 ·
You asked if it is possible to have a barrel made - the answer sure it's possible - maybe even more so that the centerfire calibers. The older H&R models like yours have the barrel lug silver soldered in place - Not sure how possible it would be salvage a lug from a shotgun barrel and re-solder it to a barrel turned to the proper diameter, but I would thing that it might be possible. Just a thought - never heard of anyone doing it.
 
#4 ·
There are a number of ways to go about this. A stub from a shotgun barrel is probably the simplest solution. I believe that the barrel (or the stub) would need to be turned off center to get the firing pin strike in the right location. A lug could also be fabricated and welded or silver soldered to a barrel or tube to make a stub. I've done that with good results. Probably only an option if you have a milling machine or a machinist friend, the cost would be prohibitive if you had to pay full price for the work. All the stub projects I've worked on were for center fire cartridges. The hardest part of the job in my view is getting the firing pin strike in the right location. Since I have factory rifles that strike a bit off center, I'm guessing that it wasn't the easiest thing for the factory to get right either.
 
#5 ·
I thought my rifle being a rimfire that would have made things easier with the firing pin being located in the correct positioned Do you think a stub would still need to be reamed off centre ?

If anyone has a stub that would fit my model range rifle I would be happy to purchase it, once I get the rifle home I will measure that area.


A great thing about the internet and forums like these it allows the easy communication, not only am I down under but at the moment sitting down in my 100 year old farm house 1 hour from the nearest town that has a population of 9 dogs, 3 cats 7000 kangaroos and lots of tiger snakes lol

John
 
#6 ·
If the frame on the M157 22mag has an offset firing pin like the modern SS1 rimfire frame, then there's no need for the stub to have an offset bore, H&R Inc only made the 22mag M157 1976-77 and the book doesn't mention any combo offerings with Hornet or 30-30 barrels, so I suspect the frame was rimfire only, but never have seen one. Is the firing pin in the center of the standing breech or off center to the bore?

Tim
 
#7 ·
Tim, I will post some photos when I get the rifle home i'm a very long way from the dealership where I found it. I am 70 years old and have never seen another on down here, speaking with the dealer he was also intrigued as to how such an odd rifle turned up here. Keep in mind wholesalers really only go for what is going to move off the shelf quickly.

Its one of those things I may have over paid on, we have all been there I guess, it cost me about $350.00 USD but it was in such good condition and I love the 22 magnum round I jumped in

John
 
#8 ·
We have all done that once in a while. I think you found a rare one there. I was thinking that one of the members here posted that they had the 22 Mag 157 a while back and was pretty sure it has the centered bore like the SS1. The stub would probably be the simplest way to go for sure. Either way a donor barrel is required. Enjoy your find!
 
#12 ·
Its been a long time coming but should be here tomorrow:tango_face_smile_bi
Now a little more help fellas I really want to do a 5mm rimfire barrel so have been looking out for something stub which is near impossible down here, just today I found a 158 12 gauge.


Would this barrel be suitable to stub for my 157?
Would the outside of the stub be the same size as my 22 magnum? hard to imagine a 12 gauge being the same size outer chamber area.


As you can plainly see this is the beginning of a H&R journey for me so I know nothing at all and hope you blokes can put up with the dumb questions


John
 
#13 ·
I just measured a 17HMR barrel breech and a 20 Gauge breach. They both measured right at 28.4 mm (1.118 inches). As for fitting, that is a hit or miss scenario - it may snap right on or it may require some fitting - either shimming or removing a little metal from the lug - instructions on fitting are here in the stickies at the top of this forum. The fit can me addressed during the stubbing process. The stud holding the forend on can be a bit of a problem - on my 157's (I have a 22 Hornet and a 30-30) the stud is smaller and further forward than on a shotgun barrel, but in discussions here, it appears that some may have used a stud in the same location. Mine use a sling swivel stud to hold the forend on.



Its been a long time coming but should be here tomorrow:tango_face_smile_bi
Now a little more help fellas I really want to do a 5mm rimfire barrel so have been looking out for something stub which is near impossible down here, just today I found a 158 12 gauge.


Would this barrel be suitable to stub for my 157?
Would the outside of the stub be the same size as my 22 magnum? hard to imagine a 12 gauge being the same size outer chamber area.


As you can plainly see this is the beginning of a H&R journey for me so I know nothing at all and hope you blokes can put up with the dumb questions


John
 
#14 ·
SEK thanks for the reply, just picked up the rifle and love the feel, it has a cheap 4x mounted on it i'll likely upgrade that.
Fired a shot and it goes bang which is good eh, firing pin strike is light so I would be concerned it might not work so well on the wider rim of the 5mm though I believe some have re chambered 17 HMR to 17 WSM and that worked,


Found a Topper 158 12 gauge here listed as fair but at about $100.00 USD might be worth buying just need to find the diameter of the 12 gauge at the chamber area


I measured the 22 mag barrel and got the same measurement you did now need to check a 12 gauge


Thanks for the help
John
 
#15 ·
Chamber area on the 12 gauge is the same as the 20 - I spent this afternoon working on a stub using a 12 gauge barrel. This is my first stub and so far so good. Mine will be a 32 H&R Magnum - or maybe 327 Magnum - I'll see which way it goes when I get the stub ready to chamber. The 20 gauge was what I had handy when I took the measurement - my 12 gauge donor barrels were in my shop. Only problem with a 12 gauge barrel as a donor for the sub is it pretty thin in the chamber area so on mine I'm going to use epoxy to hold the new barrel in place rather than try to thread anything - not very experiences with my lathe either so avoiding cutting threads partly for that reason as well.
 
#16 ·
Good luck on the project, will you be running a thread on this if so can you post photos as you go


Do you have another 20 gauge stub you would part with? it would'nt be a problem to post over, also happy to buy the 12 gauge and do a parts exchange if that helps you


John
 
#17 ·
#18 · (Edited)
Fingers crossed I may have a 410 barrel in the works, maybe that would be better perhaps it could be re lined with a 20 cal liner .


I shot the 22 magnum barrel for the first time with a cheap 4x scope and I was really happy, a few misfires so need to look for a stronger firing pin spring I guess also wondering if there is a picatinny rail available


Here's a photo of the chamber end of the barrel, I am unsure of why the two outer pins are located differently than other barrels ive seen. Even though my 157 is 22 mag they were made in hornet & 30-30 yes? so what is barrel called Sb1 or 2






John
 
#19 ·
H&R Inc frames had no SB designation, that didn't happen until NEF started production in 1987, H&R inc went out of business in 1986, all of their frames were ductile cast iron similar to SB1.

There are several scope bases made for the H&R/NEF, at least a couple picatinny, all shown in the FAQs sticky.

Tim

http://www.egwguns.com/nef/h-r/
 
#20 ·
I have been busy with my stub project so just had a chance to read this. Glad you like he way it shoots! As for a Picatinny rail - I have seen them here in the US but have no idea what might be available there. A 410 barrel should work fine for either adding a liner or stubbing - although turning a liner for a full length liner might be a fun job. A liner would look nicer in my opinion.
 
#21 ·
Really appreciate all the guidance fellas, unfortunately this looks to be heading for the to hard basket.


I am unsure what the difference is in those two pins opposite the center one, does this perhaps something to do with an ejector like my 22 mag and extractor on my friends 223 the pins on his are very close to the center one.


I really bought this rifle with the idea of a switch barrel as I have a lot 5mm ammo and love the round.


Would an early handi rifle in 22 hornet have the same set up as mine


John
 
#22 ·
All H&R inc barrels and H&R/NEF centerfire rifle barrels prior to about 2004-2007(varies with chambering) had ejectors, then they switched to extractors on centerfire rifles only. Ejectors and extractors have the same number of pins, but extractors have 2 pins close to the trip pin, ejectors have a pin at the front next to the pivot and another a little farther behind the trip pin than the rear pin on the extractor, the difference is easiest to see from the bottom, the ejector latch fills the entire opening in the ejector housing where as the extractor(top) just has the cam. There is one other type extractor that has a set screw in the bottom of the housing, but that was only on some 2004-2005 barrels IIRC.

Tim

Bottom pic is ejector
 

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#23 ·
Tim


Very grateful for your help, as you can see in my photo my rimfire barrel block is identical to the bottom photo so its an ejector and looks like it might be easier to find a stub or a complete pivot block if that's the correct term


My s/n is AN 264671


Whilst I have it broken down I will post some photos so you can see the firing pin indent I believe you asked for that


Once again my thanks
John
 
#25 ·
John - that is a beauty! I have a 22 Hornet and a 30-30 in the model 157 - I have a real soft spot for those.



Dan
 
#26 ·
Dan, its strange that its the only 157 ive seen down here and its in the hardest caliber to find. I have no luck in finding a stub so looks like my plans for the 5mm haven fallen over.


I am looking at mounting a Vortex diamondback 2-7x35 on it I think that will work best for what I do and its a nice compact scope


John
 
#27 · (Edited)
John,
I finally get to see the rifle and it looks like a beauty. I would not want to change anything as far as the original barrel and stock goes but stubbing another barrel would work. You might have to figure out a way to add a front stock to the barrel but that's not a great problem. I wondered if you ever got the light firing pin hits worked out. One thing that might be a problem is I don't believe anybody makes .20 caliber liners. another problem might be that the existing firing pin would not be out far enough to strike the 5mm remington magnum rim if you did find a barrel for the conversion. The 22 magnum is a nice round and if you ever got a wild hair the rifle could be lined for 17HMR or find a similar barrel and line it to 17HMR and save that original barrel as is.

I have to correct myself on what I had said about the firing pin. I looked your model 157 up on Numrich Arms and the schematic drawing shows there is a cross pin that holds your firing pin in place. I realized after seeing the drawing that your rifle and my shotgun have little in common. I still wonder if junk could have collected over time inside the firing pin area since it is a rimfire and they tend to be a bit dirty.

My H&R topper is actually a 20ga shotgun I shortened to 20" and made inserts for the barrel. The picture of the shotgun with the 38 Special insert is shown along with a picture of the muzzle. since I change the inserthttps://i.imgur.cs they are held in place with rubber O rings. I've done the same with 22lr but in my case have to offset the 22 barrel.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/6DFghoj.jpg?4
 
#28 ·
Charlie welcome aboard the good ship frustration lol


I will have an email to you later today have just located a 410 & 20 gauge barrel both with poor bores so far it looks like one will be gifted to me from a mate here we just looking at things to find the best.


Also as you suggested Green Mountain makes 5mm, 204" barrels so things are getting closer once I pull these together I will then have to borrow or higher a reamer


John
 
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