Paste type tomatoes - Graybeard Outdoors
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Default Paste type tomatoes

I have tried probably 5 types of paste tomatoes over the years and have not had good success with any of them. Granted we live in zone 4 but the tomatoes either don’t get totally ripe before they fall off of the plant or they get blossom end rot. I don’t have problems with any other tomatoes. Any ideas? I’ve planted them in different locations, used Epsom salts and lime for calcium etc. planted them in potting mix, potting soil, in grow boxes and regular soil. Out in more open areas and on the south side of the house where it gets very warm. I’ve given up on them but at the same time I’m a bit stubborn and don’t like to fail at anything in the garden 🤨

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 02:09 PM
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if you're referring to romas specifically, i couldn't tell you
what might be wrong, except my guess would be some
quirk in the seeds, some mutation they accidentally stumbled
onto.
i was growing romas as my one and only there for quite a
few years, and they just up and quit growing properly no
matter what i did. the last few years i've just been grabbing
up whatever seed i could get first and quit seeking out roma.

not to sound like some conspiracy dude, but i sorta think
that a lot of these seeds of a lot of vegetable plants meant
for the home gardener are G.E.'d in some way to not do as
well as they once did. when i first started serious gardening,
i was able to buy good bulk seed at a local nursery, and they
always all sprouted well, and the mature plants always yielded
well. these last few years, none of my tomatoes or green peppers
or okra have done well at all, and barely have enough yield to be worth
the trouble. the yard long green beans from last year would
be the lone exception. the other stuff makes beautiful plants
and foliage, but the fruits don't do well at all

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 04:10 PM
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I have never had blossom end rot on any tomato but use biological killers like Serenade and Sonata to control most problems.
I have gardens in both zone 3 and 4 areas and never have problems with tomatoes not getting ripe, including volunteers from the year before.

Here is a technical, very, very technical bit on why BER is not caused by calcium deficiency.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...04423814002830

Abstract
From a review of the relevant literature it is concluded that Ca2+ deficiency is not the cause but a result of blossom-end rot (BER) in tomato and pepper fruit. Actually, a depletion of the apoplastic pool of water-soluble Ca2+ in fruit has been observed only after the symptoms of BER were already visible, whereas in fruit at the early stages of BER development, the distribution and concentration of Ca2+ was still similar to that in healthy fruit. The actual causes of BER are obviously the effects of abiotic stress, e.g. by salinity, drought, high light intensity, heat, and ammonia nutrition, resulting in an increase of reactive oxygen species (ROS), high oxidative stress and finally cell death. Cell death results in a disintegration of the plasma membrane and tonoplast and a breakdown of the endoplasmic reticulum, thus not following but preceding ion leakage, including Ca2+ leakage, and loss of turgor. Bioactive gibberellins (GAs) reduce the accumulation of Ca2+ but increase the susceptibility to stress and the risk of BER, while abscisic acid (ABA) has the opposite effect. Ca2+ stabilizes cell structures and may thus limit cell expansion. It is usually sufficiently available for plant development and therefore Ca2+ deficiency is rare in nature. Application of GA biosynthesis inhibitors, such as prohexadione-Ca, and of GA antagonists, such as ABA, may completely inhibit the development of BER even at very low availability of Ca2+. With this approach, a better understanding and a more efficient control of BER in tomato and pepper fruit is envisaged.

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http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.o...nd-pepper.aspx
Symptoms and Diagnosis

An early symptom of blossom-end rot is a light tan patch on the blossom end of the green fruit. Over time the area turns dark brown or black and may become sunken or leathery. Fruit which is one-third to one-half developed is most commonly affected. Sometimes an internal black rot will develop in the center of the fruit with little or no external symptoms. Parts of the fruit not affected by blossom-end rot may be eaten.

Causes of Blossom-End Rot

The most common cause of blossom-end rot is fluctuating soil moisture. Moisture plays an important role in calcium uptake in the plant. When a dry period follows adequate moisture, calcium uptake can be reduced. Root damage due to deep cultivation or burning from improper fertilization can also restrict calcium uptake. Excessive applications of fertilizer containing ammonia can also result in symptoms. Less frequently, an actual deficiency of calcium in the soil may cause this rot. This is rarely the case in St. Louis.

Integrated Pest Management Strategies

1. Maintain even soil moisture. Water regularly during dry periods and mulch plants with a 3–4 inch layer of organic material to help hold in soil moisture.

2. Avoid deep cultivation too near plants.

3. Modify your fertilizing practices. Use a fertilizer high in superphosphate and low in nitrogen. When adding nitrogen, use calcium nitrate rather than ammonia or urea forms.

4. Get a soil test. If the above methods do not correct the problem, get a soil test and maintain soil pH at 6.5 to 7.

5. As a last resort, use a foliar spray of calcium chloride. Do not spray too often or in excessive amounts.

6. Tomatoes in container. For tomatoes grown in containers, apply a fertilizer specifically formulated for tomatoes. The fertilizer must contain micronutrients including calcium.

Organic Strategies

Strategies 1, 2, 4 and 6 are strictly organic approaches. Organic preparations of calcium chloride (mentioned in Strategy 5) that carry the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI™) seal of approval are available.

RR

Last edited by Bob Riebe; 02-25-2019 at 04:17 PM.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 07:57 PM
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Tomatoes should be moved around in the garden,not on the same space every year, mi'm sure you know that.
Have enough room to let the ground lay fallow? I also like to spread black
plastic on the ground, gets pretty hot and hopefully kills off a lot of bad stuff, found an article here.
homeguides.sfgate.com/use-plastic-over-vegetable-garden-kill-weeds-seeds-24078.html

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 09:17 PM
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I grow Romas every year and they do pretty good here,





These days for tomatoes, Romas and Big Boys are about all I grow...





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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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From your pictures of your Roma tomatoes maybe I am waiting too long to pick. I always figured they should be very red like my other tomatoes are when I pick them, but yours are more of an orange. Hmm....

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 04:39 PM
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Well, in the top pict., they aren't ready to pick, but either way, I'm going to blame the "color" on the camera, not the tomato...


But, they don't get bright red like Big Boys either...


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