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Beware B&S low cost engines..

2K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  Ranger99 
#1 ·
Last spring I ought a low cost mower to use for trimmer, after mowing with my JD rider. I figured I didn't need a very costly one, because it would only be used a few minutes to trim after each mowing.
The mower has a Briggs engine series 300E.. Last year, I had to pull14-20 times to finally get a start..wasn't happy..at most 1.5 hours use.

I stored it overwinter with a full tank of 90 octane, non-ethanol, treated with Sea foam. Got it out this spring..pull my guts out...not a pop !

I thought, maybe the magneto needs re-gapping...so I set the usual 12 thousandths... not a pop...

Spoke to Don, a church friend who worked for years with his Dad I a small engine shop.

Don said, "I hope it's not one of those PLASTIC carburetors; but let me take a look at it.. PLASTIC CARBURETORS ?? Sure enough..there are many out there !

My last mower, now with a grandson..was Honda powered..started first time, every time... If I knew about plastic carburetors, I would have spent the extra

money and got a mower with an engine that starts with a capital "H" !

Well; Don got the mower running, and I used it last mowing, although it took extra pulls.....

Mowed this morning..got the Briggs powered mower out...may as well have been trying to fire up a granite rock !

You probably know by now, how I feel about the base B&S engines..

Crazy thing.. that JD lawn tractor has a 19.5 hp Briggs engine, and has performed flawlessly for about 10-12 years now..

.
 
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#2 ·
I've had good luck with B&S engines with exception of those side tank plastic carburetor motors. You used to be able to replace them with a metal carb if you ran across one. Unless they've changed them, check to see if the plastic ring that snaps into the carb and holds the o-ring that seals the carb to the intake manifold/tube hasn't popped out. Don't currently have a push mower but the carb on our 20 year old poulan chainsaw is on it's last legs. $15 for a new carb but we'll likely just get a new chainsaw.
 
#4 ·
I've not had any problem with the carburetors because they are plastic. I've had problems with the gaskets and the primer bulbs. I think the gaskets don't like ethanol, and the bulbs don't like UV. Both parts are included in a kit for about $8.00.

To add to the intake comment, I had a plastic intake wear through, which caused similar symptoms. Replaced the intake and all was well. I have 2, one that I bought new almost 20 years ago, and one that I got at a yard sale for $20 about 15 years ago. Still going strong. The mower decks seem to disintegrate around the engine......
 
#5 ·
Same issue here, plastic pos carb. Cleaned it once and it runs good,... for a while. After a couple cut and sit stages it's hard starting and doesn't run well.

I get mid or premium fuel for the mower, use it a couple times then the rest goes into the car and I get a new batch. The ethanol doesn't do small engines many favors.

And the decks do go, the wheels start to fall apart, the lever breaks on the height adjustment. Flimsy spring steel lever, one snapped off resetting the deck height.
 
#6 · (Edited)
There is a puzzle for me...I have used nothing but 90 octane, ethanol free gas in it, in fact, it's still on it's first tankful ! The UVs could not have gotten to the primer bulb, because it has been stored inside..except for the 1-1.5 hours it has been used. Don cleaned the carburetor and got some small black flakes out of it.
Maybe I should leave the "&" symbol out ..and call it a BS engine !

.
 
#7 ·
IG you just cant go wrong with the Hondas. All the auxiliary engines on my equipment are Hondas. They get a new plug, oil and an air filter every spring and get ran hard for 6 months a year. All are over 10 years old. I also have a $25 yard sale Honda push mower at the house that's on its fifth season. Buy once, cry once with the Hondas.
 
#8 ·
We had the plastic breather tube wear through on our mower; fixed it w/ JB weld. Briggs engine is 10 yrs old and the deck is 20 some, but had to put in heavy washers from a cable spool for the front wheel mounts, and a new shroud from on old water heater tank. Rear wheels got reinforced with devcon and pole barn nails. Carb has been set in a fixed running position which only changes when it gets bent. It occasionally gets a slick-50 treatment from 2nd hand oil out of the pick-up. So far so good.
 
#10 ·
i can tell you from experience to not try any repairs
other than cleaning on those plastic carbs.
by the time you buy the gasket and diaphragm and screen
and such with shipping you'll have a twenty in a useless carb
that can be replaced with a new unit for that same $20.00

another lesson is to empty any gas from the tank before
storing, even for a short amount of time. you can't see it, but
today's gasoline has trash in it that will clog everything to the
point of being irreparable. dump it out, dry it out, and start
with fresh gasoline each time. i find that gasoline just
doesn't store well at all anymore regardless of whatever kind
of treatment you might put in it. i quit buying and storing big
quantities of gasoline now because it spoils so quick. cheaper
in the long run to just go buy fresh whenever i have to run
something with a small engine.
 
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#12 ·
Go to the dump/transfer station and get a carb from junker, clean it up and try it.

In my younger days when I didn't have a lot of money if was able to pick up a few old mowers out by the roadside. Mostly the decks were rotted. I was usually able to put together 1 or 2 good, usable mowers from 3 or 4 junkers.

Now I just get new ones from Lowes for cheap. Picked up a Poulan w/B&S engine couple years ago for like $140. Push primer 3X and starts on first pull. However, what I don't care for is the fact that there is NO DRAIN PLUG !!!. Oil is drained from the fill hole. I suppose that is one way to ensure the oil does not get changed regularly and sell more mowers... I generally get around 13+ years from a push mower (the older ones). We'll see how long this one lasts...
 
#19 ·
not very well from my experience.
B-12 liquid is all i'll use anymore, and not much
of that. B-12 and Seafoam and such doesn't seem
to jive with the local gasoline formulations like
it did in years past and a decade ago. i'll try a
blowgun with a rubber tip to try and clean out the
tiny passages if i can. today's fuel varnish is almost
like glue in these fuel systems nowdays.
better to keep the tank dry and clean when not
in use than try to fix watery stale gasoline with
various treatments and such.
i empty the tank on all my small gas putt-putts
nowdays rather than trying to fix things.
 
#14 ·
I change the oil about every 10 years or so. I really don't do any maintenance on my mowers unless something breaks. I just went through a hard start situation. My wife hit a dog toy which stopped the motor RIGHT NOW and shortly after it didn't want to start of fun right. I checked the flywheel key, carb gaskets, water in fuel and finally changed the coil. Nothing. Pulled the plug, it was dry. Put the plug back in, it started first pull and ran great. Then I noticed that I hadn't put the plug wire back on, it was arcing to the plug and running fine! Put the plug wire back on and no start. New plug and it now starts up and runs fine, I guess the dog toy had nothing to do with the issue.....
 
#15 ·
Had that happen perhaps 30 years ago with my sisters lawn mower. Was surprised that the mower would run like that and even put out a 2"-3" arc. B-I-L is one of those guys that shouldn't be allowed to own any tools but is incredibly book smart. At any rate the mower was one of the transition models from points to electronic ignition where there was a little black box under the flywheel that controlled the spark from the magneto. Was able to order a new one and got the mower back up and running. Replacement one lasted a couple years and when it went they just got a new mower.
 
#16 ·
Another A+ for the Honda mowers. The one I have is over 20 years old and still runs like a champ. The last couple of years I haven't used it much. I have started doing all my trimming with a string trimmer. Much faster and easier to handle in tight spaces. I still fire up the Honda to make sure everything is working alright. It starts on the first pull every time. So no complaints here.

Jim
 
#17 ·
Interesting read:
http://www.small-engine-projects.com/best-fuel-for-small-engines.htm


Maybe gasoline is different in the South but I use ethanol free gasoline that is a year old with no problem but I generally get what is called winter blend up here that ignites easier.
I have used the canned gasolne and just bought a several can of Sunoco premixed.
VP makes a gasoline that is supposed to fix many problems with small engines; I bought a can put it in a lawn mower that was missing and it stopped missing.
Not a cure all but worth the bucks to try.
Plastic and ethanol do not mix regardless of what new hype from B & S say.so never use gasoline with alcohol in it plus it separate at a very quick rate in gas cans.
 
#18 ·
We have a 3hp briggs on a tiller that was new about 1975. Before new rings, it would use a quart of oil a day! (I don't think it even holds a whole quart). The only way it would run was to use two-cycle gas and let the plug wire dangle about a half inch from the plug.
 
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