I've got more time than money. I ended up trying 1.8" 444 cases with the bullets seated out and they shot for crap. So I'd need to make a 444x1.8" barrel for it so it can be used in our firearm season. I'd hate to mess with that gun as it shoots so well with 444 sized cartridges. I tried 357max cases in my 336 and it looks like the carrier and cartridge stops would need changed along with a new barrel. Haven't given up on it, but likely won't work on it until it's much warmer. I've got plenty of 357Max cases, a .358" 1:14" blank and lots of spare time.

ended up ordering another carrier to modify to see if I can get my 336 from trying to double feed. I was able to get it to feed multiple rounds if the lever wasn't pulled all the way, and the carrier was pushed up sooner. Looking at my 444 carrier and a 336 T-44 carrier I think it just needs a lever or flapper to limit how far back a cartridge can come and for the carrier to lift up/cur off the mag tube sooner. I'd hate to have to mill a new carrier so I'll see if another one can easily be modified to work. If so a replacement barrel is easy enough. It'll have to be octagon though!

Watching

I dont see why a 94 wouldnt work as far as making it cycle properly. Same action lemgth as 30-30 and the max is shorter than 30-30. Why couldnt you take a 357 mag 94, modify the carrier to work with the longer max cartridge and re-chamber? What am i missing?

Aside from operating pressure being too high (?) i dont see why this wouldnt work.

I think the same

However I think our thoughts are wrong😂

I have a Rossi M92 16" barrel in .357mag. I use Buffalo Bore Heavy 357 loads in it and they chrony over 2000 fps with the 158 gr bullet. Buffalo Bore ain't cheap but it seems like a more cost efficient way to get more power out of a 357 carbine/rifle. Just my $0.02.

Still working on one and will make a thread on it when I'm further along. Added a .080" strip to the bottom of an extra carrier in an attempt to get it to lift sooner. It worked, but it also tried to lift the carrier too high at the end of the lever stroke. So it need jigged up on the mill and the area around the bump thinned quite a bit. I think the front "U" section also need a piece silver soldered in to reduce the inside diameter so it can cut off anything at the rim diameter but allow the thinner case wall diameter through. Then a pin or block to limit how far back a case can go. In the end I may just end up milling a new carrier but I'd like to avoid that if possible.

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Awesome! Please post the link to your thread in this thread so that I can see it when I get the notification.

The right 357 load is a definite performer in a rifle.
That is why Max is so desirable. It is just that much better…

As was asked please post a Link here to your new thread, so I get a notice
Nice work
THanks
Tommyt

I would have to wonder if the 357 bullet technology out there today is ready for 2000fps. Using a bullet designed to open up at a 1000fps in a gun going twice that fast turns a hunting bullet into a varmint bullet. I know that cast bullets sure do better at 1400 fps then they do at 2000. You can run them that fast with some careful steps but finding an alloy that will hold up is tough. I don't know of any dedicated 357 Rifle bullets. Maybe a partition but your selection for proper bullets is going to be slim and none. Unless your intension with it is to blow the **** out of things. the 35 rem is a much better choice. If your considering a 94 length action I don't see an advantage to the max. Much better bullets are available for the 35 rem and brass and ammo would be much easier to find. I guess practicality isn't allways the driving force behind what I do and buy either. If you just want one because you want one go for it. But for the money your going to invest you could go to the gunshop and pick up a used marlin 35 and be shooting that day.