Tale of Two Mausers a M93 to 45 ACP and M95 to 35 Rem - Graybeard Outdoors
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post #1 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Default Tale of Two Mausers a M93 to 45 ACP and M95 to 35 Rem

I was looking for a suitable mauser to convert to 45 ACP using the Rhineland Arms kit. In my search I came across a Spanish Ovieado 1923 marked mauser in pretty sad shape at the Indy 1500 gun show. So after some haggling I walked out with it.
It was really rough. Safety would not move. I managed to remove bolt, but bolt stop would not close after bolt removal. The original barrel was badly pitted at the wood line and the stock itself had a nice gash in it. However, it had one thing that did not lend itself to the 45 ACP project, a hinged trigger guard. It was rusted shut and I could not drop the mag well plate with no amount of force on the mag release button. But I was positive I could get that working with some patience, heat and PB Blaster. The rest of the action was in really good shape with some minor pitting and it was otherwise an unmolested action. Since the 45 ACP kit requires you to do away with the bottom mag plate and would negate the advantages of the hinged trigger guard I decided to get a Rhineland Arms 35 Remington barrel and rebarrel this action to take advantage of the mag button release feature the hinged trigger guard offers.

I completely dis-assembled the rifle. Everything. What a pain. I discovered the safety was not rusted shut, but the preservative (I guess it is cosmo) had completely dried and actually was acting like an adhesive. I finally got it removed after a lot of penetrating oil and heat. I got the bolt broken down and cleaned up too. It works good and is loosening up. The rest of the parts broke down fairly easily. I even got the trigger guard release working well. Repeated heat gun and PB Blaster treatments got everything freed up and it now works the way it should. Needs positive force to push the mag release, but it does open as it should and releases the mag plate. The plate now swings freely on the hinge.

The real pain was getting the barrel off the action. I have had some real tough barrels on mauser before, but man this one took the cake. First, I had to make new wood barrel blocks has my old ones were shot. I did not have any white oak, but I have lots of scape walnut so I made three blocks from that. Then I got out my barrels vice and flat bottom action wrench. I use a cheater bar to tighten down the vice. The blocks actually compress about an inch before I cannot turn the tightening screws any more. I thought that would do the trick... Nope. The barrel just spun in the blocks. I was looking to keep the barrel intact. It was pitted, but had crisp rifling and the sights were in great shape. Would make a decent barrel for a restore. Though about selling it to recover some of my project funds. Well that did not happen. Over the course of the day I tried all the tricks. I tried several applications of heat and PB Blaster. I filed flats where the pitting was to put another wrench on to pull the barrel in the opposite direction. That did not work. I finally broke down and cut relief cuts into the chamber next to to action to try and relieve some of the stress to get the barrel moving and get it spun off. Nope. I could not get it budge no matter what I tried. Exhausted, I gave up and put it in my WD40 tank to soak. Over the course of the week I would repeate the Heat and PB Blaster treatments and set back in the tank. I let sit for a week. Finally yesterday with the last good barrel block set, a pipe wrench which is now in addition to the crescent wrench, attached to the barrel. I arranged it so that the barrel cannot move even if the blocks fail to grip. I still could not get the action to budge. But at least now it is not slipping. So I grab a 5 lb short handled maul and give the action wench handle a couple of real hard hits and finally the action breaks free. Upon inspection the oil had completely penetrated into the threads, but the same dried black grease or preservative had dried up and was actually acting like a glue. It was caked up in there pretty good and took a bronze brush and more cleaning to get the
threads cleaned up.

Onto the next steps. I am going to add open sights and optics. The optic is going to be a scope with low power. So the first thing is to file down the rear bridge charging hump to install a scope mount. There is an excellent Midway - Larry Potterfield video on how to do this. I used a dremel drum sander, file, wet stone, and finally emery cloth to grind down, shape and polish to accomplish this. It turned out pretty good. I am going slow to keep the shape and lines distinct and crisp or at least as much as I can while also removing any pitting. I have not decided on a 2 piece or single piece mount yet. I will need to drill and tap the receiver one way or the other.

Other upcoming steps. I have ordered a Wisner 2 position side swing safety. Will need to machine the bolt shroud and fit. I also ordered the 35 Remington barrel kit from Rhineland. I am going to set the barrel up after I work the action for scope mounts.

This is a long term project. So hopefully I can get it finished before deer season next year. I will post some pics when I can.

Cartridges for My Entertainment: 22lr, .223 Rem, 30-06, 380 ACP, 38 spcl, 357 mag/max, , 35 Remington, 35 Whelen, 358 Norma Mag, 10mm Auto, 45 ACP. Mmmmkay what project can I do next... oh, I can't right now I am going hunting!

Last edited by 8uck5nort; 12-27-2018 at 11:47 AM. Reason: Change Title
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post #2 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 01:01 PM
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35rem Mauser? I'm intrigued.
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post #3 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 07:01 AM
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Very interesting. Great whitetail/black bear cartridge.
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post #4 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-05-2018, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Just some progress pics. I busted the firing pin Sunday. Bought a HF mini lathe Monday to machine a replacement pin. Other than that little problem this one is going perfectly as planned.
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Cartridges for My Entertainment: 22lr, .223 Rem, 30-06, 380 ACP, 38 spcl, 357 mag/max, , 35 Remington, 35 Whelen, 358 Norma Mag, 10mm Auto, 45 ACP. Mmmmkay what project can I do next... oh, I can't right now I am going hunting!
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post #5 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 10:27 PM
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Default i have a '23 oviedo mauser...

in 7x57, the standard for the Spanish Army of the day.

keep any conversion low pressure cartridges. my Speer 13 recommends only leaving 7x57 or go to 257 Roberts.

the standard one i have penetrates primers totally with factory load ammo. as far as i'm aware, it has standard components. most likely excessive wear from abusive soldiers and excessive use...

i did install a Timney trigger that helped it dramatically

i would suggest you have a licensed gunsmith go over it, check the head space and receiver as these rifles were not as well heat treated as the later '98 Mauser.

i'm looking for a solution for my problem, but for the moment, it's a wall decoration...parts for the 93/95 are not easy to find

lead, follow, or get out of the way!
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post #6 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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The 35 rem operates at a lower pressure than the 7x57 mauser. I will be setting headspace when I spin the new barrel on. I ordered it about a week ago and should have it any day now. It is a Rhineland barrel kit and has a collar similar to a Savage set up. So if all goes well setting the headspace should be pretty straight forward process.

Cartridges for My Entertainment: 22lr, .223 Rem, 30-06, 380 ACP, 38 spcl, 357 mag/max, , 35 Remington, 35 Whelen, 358 Norma Mag, 10mm Auto, 45 ACP. Mmmmkay what project can I do next... oh, I can't right now I am going hunting!
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post #7 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 01:08 PM
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Watching this!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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post #8 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-20-2018, 11:03 AM
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Pretty neat. Looked at your Kit source, lots of good stuff there. When I lived in Washington state I saw several 93 Mausers converted to 35 Remington and 444 Marlin. Must have been a local guy doing it. Could have had a nice one in 444 Marliin for $100 (1986). Wish I had bought it.
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post #9 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Progress pics. I made chips on my lathe this weekend and worked up a proof of concept piece plus I got a feel for the lathe and how it cuts and faces. Then I applied the fix to my broken firing pin. Pics got a little out of order, but you get the idea. Used Brownells silver solder and a propane torch affix the pin in place. Nice thing now is if the pin gets broken or bent I can just cut up another cheap drill bit, heat and re-seat to repair. My next item to make on the lathe for this project is a GO and NO-GO headspace guage set to seat the barrel and do a proof of concept primer test fire to validate my firing pin repair and headspace. Then I will remove barrel and continue to sporterize the action.
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Cartridges for My Entertainment: 22lr, .223 Rem, 30-06, 380 ACP, 38 spcl, 357 mag/max, , 35 Remington, 35 Whelen, 358 Norma Mag, 10mm Auto, 45 ACP. Mmmmkay what project can I do next... oh, I can't right now I am going hunting!
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post #10 of 72 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Default More Setbacks! Sigh... and a Change of Plan.

I have been working on this project for a while. I knew it was a rough rifle to start with and I would face challenges. So here they come.

I got the firing pin repaired and it appears to work great. So I proceeded with ordering the Dayton Traister speedlock kit. It provides a top quality trigger and converts the CoC to a CoO which I find works better for me. I made the required alterations to the firing pin and bolt and during my first assembled test the new cocking piece broke and jammed the bolt in the action. It took me locking the action in a vice and a crowbar to lift the handle and get the bolt back out to exam the cause and failure. Fortunately the damage was isolated to the cocking piece and bolt shroud. So now I need a new bolt shroud too. Not a big deal, but kinda discouraging to say the least. The bright side is (you just have to look for it sometimes) is now I have a ruined bolt shroud to practice installing the wisner side swing safety and not worry about screwing it up...

After breaking the cocking piece I decided to contact Dayton Traister. I called their service line and all I got was "leave a message". So I e-mailed the address included on my order and got an immediate response. I described what happened and included a number of pictures with measurements to show my work to date. He replied immediately with a "we will send you new cocking piece and apologized for the problems I am experiencing". Kudos to Dayton Traister Co customer service. I even acknowledged it may be something I did incorrectly. So it looks like I will get a Mulligan on the CoC to CoO conversion.



So onto the change of plan... I brought an old recurve bow I had laying around to my favorite pawn shop/toy store. I wanted to see if they would simply trade out my bow for a box of ammo or two. They did and what do I see leaning up in the corner of the gun rack in the "nobody wants me" section... A nice chilean 95 mauser with a very nicely done bolt handle and commercial front ramp sight. The metal is patina, but flawless unlike the spanish 93 which had some minor pitting. I thinks to myself, "self... this would make a nice 35 Remington. Just swap the bottom hinged mag and spin the old barrel off and spin the new Rhineland barrel on and "poof" your golden". "On top of that the spanish 93 can be your 45 acp project rifle". So needless to say I put my lunch money down and put it on lay-a-way.
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Cartridges for My Entertainment: 22lr, .223 Rem, 30-06, 380 ACP, 38 spcl, 357 mag/max, , 35 Remington, 35 Whelen, 358 Norma Mag, 10mm Auto, 45 ACP. Mmmmkay what project can I do next... oh, I can't right now I am going hunting!
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