Removing Bullet Lube - Page 2 - Graybeard Outdoors
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-31-2020, 11:11 AM
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I empathize with you in keeping the Spousal Unit happy in her shooting. My wife is a petite gal who plays piano professionally and her hands won't tolerate anything close to what I shoot regularly. I am ham handed and can shoot a HOT 45 Colt load all day. One of these is far more than she can tolerate in her hand, wrist, or arm and I won't subject my lady to any abuse that would drive her away from this hobby.

I seem to remember (research powder coating at castboolits.gunloads.com) that powder coating adds about 0.001" to 0.0015" to the boolit diameter on the first coat. If that isn't enough, you may have to powder coat them a second time.

It is best to push one of those bare lubed cast boolits through the barrel with a wooden dowel and hammer. If it achieves none to light resistance going through, that boolit is too small and will deposit lead along the barrel when fired. You are trying to achieve a tight and thoroughly resistant fit when slugging a barrel so the barrel's tightest land and groove is "mapped" on the diameter of the boolit.

After pounding the slug through measure it's diameter, WRITE THAT DOWN for posterity, and KEEP that slug for future reference.

With that slugged dimension, you try to purchase, or cast, or powder coat boolit diameter to fit in the range of 0.0015" to 0.0025" WIDER than the slug (barrel) diameter, but not so hard as to wildly exceed the theoretical pressure needed to mold the boolit base to the lands and grooves on powder ignition.

This wider and softer fit will allow for the boolit base to OBTURATE (get fat) and seal itself against the lands and grooves as it is deformed by the searing heat and explosive powder expansion at primer ignition. If what you have is a hard cast boolit, or one that is too thin along its diameter, it won't obturate against the lands and grooves. Escaping hot gas will melt a portion of the boolit base and lead will deposit along the barrel length (i.e. leading).

Here's a reference for obturation and BHN (hardness) of cast boolits: http://www.lasc.us/FryxellCBAlloyObturation.htm

I suspect your boolits are HARD CAST. As such, they won't expand at the acceleration of the reduced charge, which gas cuts the bases, and leads the barrel. If so, you might research how to soften them.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 07:37 AM
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Iíve removed unwanted lube by soaking the bullets in turpentine for a few hours.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 08:53 AM
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to completely remove the lube film to the point pc will work will be about impossible. Lead is porous and no matter what you do you are going to leave a film on them. To remove it would probably cost more in chemicals and waste more time then just buying good bullets would. One thing you could try is take those lubed bullets as is and try to tumble lube with lee tumble lube over the existing lube. It might help but in my experience its usually not the lube that's the problem its the gun.

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Last edited by lloyd smale; 02-02-2020 at 08:55 AM.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-02-2020, 10:23 PM
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We have tried it more than a few times.
Multiple soaks chemicals and good old hot soapy water followed by loads of clean water rinses and more often than not crappy powder
Coating was the result.

I won’t go so far to be as black and white as to say ya cannot do it cause some chuckle head will come prove ya wrong. But it’s no easy task and more then a lil frustration.


I PC ALLOT, I venture to say more than most for a non commercial, private citizen.
I PCd some 600 or so this AM for example.
Removing Bullet Lube-352207da-1a2d-466c-8e0a-51091089e009_1580696555118.jpegClick image for larger version

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I don’t even touch my bullets before PC... Not once. I pick them up with a wire basket off the towel I dump fresh cast onto.
From there they warm on top of my oven.
Then into the barrel for swirling.
Into a basket to get sifted, then dumped into second basket for second soft and bake in same basket. Removing Bullet Lube-619809ec-99e2-4124-8b3a-916ee15cbe2e_1580696528584.jpegRemoving Bullet Lube-b7202177-03d9-41ef-9791-ffd58f1e4dfc_1580696582252.jpegClick image for larger version

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CW

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-03-2020, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the info guys. From what Lloyd says and cwlongshot shows sounds like my best bet it to try alox on these and in the future buy either hollow base bullets that should be better suited for the light loads or maybe go with the lighter wt. plated bullets. I have been working 6-7 days a week for about 6-7 months but just had my hours changed to 12 hour days but with some days off so maybe I'll have time now to do something fun for a change.

Landowner I agree my wife is also petite and while that doesn't always translate to light recoil loads only she also has not done a lot of shooting. She likes the 22's and the Python with light 38 loads. She can shoot my XD9 and has even shot a few through the light wt Kimber solo and the XD45 she really does not care for them. It's all about having fun and spending time together so I try to make it where she will want to go.

BTW For the short amount of time she has been going she's a pretty good shot with my Ruger MKII and the Python.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 11:41 PM
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give these to a "friend" go buy some PC polymer coated bullets and don't look back, the time spent on something so intensive for the little gain you'll get, waste it on having another beer. go see these suppliers Kings Shooters supply, sncasting, Badmans Bullets
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-07-2020, 06:18 AM
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well I wouldn't give them away. My guess is a coating of alox will allow you to shoot them at moderate velocity just fine.

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