Japan Tasco “No more clicks up” - Graybeard Outdoors
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
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Default Japan Tasco “No more clicks up”

A friend who is not a Tasco fan gave me an older 6-24 Japanese Tasco’s. We put it on an extra 223 bolt gun I had. Well I took it to the range. It centered well and I needed to go up a foot, got it up six inches and no more clicks. It seems it’s stuck. I’m thinking I need to retire the scope or am I missing something


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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 07:07 AM
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Re-center the cross hairs and then shim the front mount. Then resight.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 07:21 AM
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What kind of rings are you using? may be your rings causing the problem. Shimming is an option but not my first choice. Depending on the make of rings you have a 20 MOA base will give you more elevation adjustment. Long range shooters use this base to get more elevation

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 07:25 AM
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I may be mistaken but I believe if your shooting low and out of adjustment you have to shim the rear ring.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 08:39 AM
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Many higher magnification scopes have limited adjustment range. You can determine by counting revolutions. Back the elevation dial off the other direction until it stops turning while counting revolutions. Then return to half. Do the same with windage. See where your scope is centered by bore sighting with the bolt removed. Then you can try a different base or different rings like the Burris Signature rings with offset inserts to get the bullet impact back on target.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 08:47 AM
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allow a 40MOA correction to made in any direction with the appropriate inserts. The Burris Signature XTR Rings come with all inserts, a little beefier and without a doubt, the best rings I have ever purchased. If the scope has 1/8 min clicks, it will run out of elevation faster then a 1/4 model. Had the same problem with with a Tasco world class plus 8x32x50 on a .22lr when sighting in at 100yds.



Edit. LT beat me to it. He must use more then two fingers when typing. LOL

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lloyd smale View Post
I may be mistaken but I believe if your shooting low and out of adjustment you have to shim the rear ring.
BINGO, I believe as you do.

The experimenter in me would be interested to know the total number of elevation "clicks" available for that particular scope. Could always take the time to them count them out or count the number of per one revolution then count total revolutions or could shoot it at the highest and lowest settings, get the max change, set to center, then figure shims from there. Before a dumped the scope I would also want to test the rings with a known scope to make sure it is the scope and not the rings mismatched. If the rings are Weaver style a simple front to rear swap might could make the difference. Figuring it out would be an interesting undertaking, but then I can shoot in my back yard vs a trip to a range.

Edit: I see all of you beat me to it!! Got to slow down and read the full thread before tapping on the keys. Back to our regular station. Learned I am going to have to look into those Burris rings.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 09:16 AM
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First thing I'd do is center the crosshairs and then shoot it to see just how much you need to shim or use inserts.

Easiest way to center crosshairs is to put the front of the scope up against a mirror, look thru it, and move the adjustments until the two sets of crosshairs merge into one.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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I’m using Vortex VPR Rings medium height


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