Whitworth Cannon and a new cannoneer - Page 3 - Graybeard Outdoors
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post #21 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking of using something like this, though I'll need to find a way to mount it on a longer rod:




Though, I probably need a way courser grit to start with than 400. I think they go as low as 20.

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post #22 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 09:05 PM
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I have used flex-hones and they will not remove much metal. Depends on what needs to be done to your bore. In fact, I will check to ones I have Friday and may send you one or two if their size is right.

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post #23 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 09:07 PM
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Your bore needs to fairly good in the first place for a ball hone to hold tolerance. If you can't get it reamed then the next best thing is to use emery cloth on a wood form. I used this setup on one of my barrels and it worked pretty well.
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post #24 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GGaskill View Post
I have used flex-hones and they will not remove much metal. Depends on what needs to be done to your bore. In fact, I will check to ones I have Friday and may send you one or two if their size is right.
Thanks, any help would be much appreciated.
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post #25 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 05:54 PM
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Flex hones are used on smooth surfaces to make them smoother. In rough bores, first ream, then polish with sandpaper, then hone.
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post #26 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 03:20 PM
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Default Flapper wheels

I have tacked flapper wheels to rods before and used them on the lathe. They work really well at smoothing out the high spots. Once things get smoother, they get less effective. Since you will probably be doing this be hand, you will probably want a half inch drill with a T-handle. A flapper wheel making enough contact to do any real work is going to generate quite a bit of torque.

Ball hones are available directly from Brush Research in many grit values and materials that are not available from a reseller. Some are stock items, some have to be put together and take a few weeks to deliver. If memory serves you can get them all the way down to 20 grit in some of the materials. I recently purchased a 1.75 ball hone in 80 grit Boron Carbide (BC) and they had that hone in stock ready to ship.

As stated before, home-made sandpaper flappers can be made using a wood form. They will require more attention because with fewer flaps they will wear quickly and you'll have to change the paper more often. I had a machinist friend that made a sanding head out of aluminum bar using a mill and an indexer, I think it held 5 pieces of paper. By nature these home-made tools are bore specific, but you can make them much longer than a flapper wheel or hone. 2 inches is kind of a small bore, so you might only be able to get 2 or 3 pieces of paper around a tool made to fit. Again, tools like this when held stationary in the tail stock or in the boring bar holder of a lathe are much easier to work with than if they are placed in a drill. For one thing you don't have to worry about balance.

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post #27 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Just a quick update:

I contacted the owner of Noble Carriage (aka Hooseir Buggy Shop) in Topeka, IN about finishing my wheels. The owner is nice fellow by the name of Maynard Hochstetler.

Anyway, he happened to be coming down to Indianapolis, so he was nice enough to stop by to pick up my wheels, steel tires, and some other assorted wheels parts I had to take back up to his shop to finish them. He gave me an estimate of about $200 to finish everything out, including reproducing some of metal hardware for the wheels that I only had one set of. I gave him a copy of my carriage plans and he is also going to look into making an axle for me as well (price TBD).

I told him I was less concerned about 100% historical accuracy in the axle (I know, feel free to boo and thrown rotten vegetables at me) and more concerned with having it be robust enough to withstand firings, and of course to keep the cost as reasonable as possible. So, he's going to look at the plans and will probably do a simple square steel axle, as I won't be hitching this to a limber and towing it in the field. Basically, it's going to be going on an off a trailer and rolled a short distance to it's firing position or back into the garage.
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post #28 of 55 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 10:57 PM
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I would ask the maker for a new barrel !
That ain't RIGHT !

A proper cannon ball mold will cast proper balls , with a proper ball AND SIGHTS a smoothie round ball gun can be pretty darn accurate!

Oh yea , and a proper sabot .....

Good Luck it really is an awsome looking project and I hope that bore is is not as bad as it looks because ......
"It looks bad"

Gary

Curator of the Military Museum in Stockholm holding the origanal Morko with my reproduction!
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post #29 of 55 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocklockI View Post
I would ask the maker for a new barrel !
That ain't RIGHT !

A proper cannon ball mold will cast proper balls , with a proper ball AND SIGHTS a smoothie round ball gun can be pretty darn accurate!

Oh yea , and a proper sabot .....

Good Luck it really is an awsome looking project and I hope that bore is is not as bad as it looks because ......
"It looks bad"

Gary
Well, not much chance of that, since he is unfortunately dead. But, hopefully you are right and that it looks worse than it is due to the way I took the picture. If, as moose mentioned it is just mill scale, it should be doable to clean it up (maybe not easy without a reamer, but doable). I am also going to check around to see if anyone in the area might be able to ream it for me. Might worth the pain of getting to someone and paying their hourly rate, if they can do it without too much problem with the proper equipment.
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post #30 of 55 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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We took another look at the bore last night and it does appear to be mill scale as moose suggested. We were able to scrape a section of it clean (the barrel wasn't smooth underneath, but not as bad as the picture made it look... I think the flash was reflecting off the scale, making it look severely pitted). I ordered a few 2" flex hones, going from 40 grit up to 240. Once I get them and can start cleaning it up, we'll see how it is underneath all that. Not sure I really need to go finer than 240, given that it's a smoothbore, but I can always get a couple more and go as fine as 800.
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