Building the 1:8 Scale RML 10 Inch 18 Ton Woolwich Gun - Page 56 - Graybeard Outdoors
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post #551 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spuddy View Post
Here is a question that isnt technical necessarily but I am interested in your answers. How is everyone thinking about displaying this piece when complete? I was originally going to put it in my office but am thinking now I would like to have it at home. I would be interested in ideas for a stand design. I really would like to see how Zulu is going to display his. With his woodworking abilities I expect he will have something quite interesting.
Regards,
Tim





Spuddy,
I actually don't have my name on one of these magnificent pieces. But if I did I would weld up a sturdy square tube frame of proper height. It wouldn't need a top because the big base that I made would just sit on top of the frame.
It would get the gun up off the ground to a height where it would be very pleasant to look at.
Zulu

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post #552 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 09:56 PM
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There are many ways in which to make a T-joint.


That there are, and most of them have the potential of distorting the cross-member of the T, either warping it concave or convex depending on which side the weld is deposited. While the plug weld might not be as strong, I think it would cause the least distortion and be strong enough.

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post #553 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Spuddy, We started a discussion a while back on page 49, I believe and one of the most important factors everyone must be cognizant of is the total weight of the whole Gun Position and Gun including Carriage and Chassis. This weight is calculated for you all by me on page 50 and is a lot more than you would think something like a 1/8th Scale Gun should weigh. Click on the link below to get there to see the list of components and their weights and the total weight which your stand must support with some extra robustness in case the gun or stand takes a hit from the side by a curious onlooker!

https://www.go2gbo.com/forums/88-bla...ch-gun-50.html


The previous page, No. 49, has some discussion on stands to support this much weight safely.




Zulu, Thanks for your answer to Spuddy's question about stands. The welded square tube design sounds very sturdy and would be hardly noticeable at all, focusing attention on the item being held up for viewing. It would be sturdy and airy at the same time....................interesting.




GGaskill, Thank you George, I will use your suggestion as ammunition in my discussion with Mike when he returns from California. Frankly, even a non-welder like myself sees the logic in having all of the welds on the centerline of the vertical web of the I-beam. From my research on the Plug Welding method to make a T-joint, I believe a hole dia. of 5/16", .3125" in the center of the 3/4" wide flange would be about perfect. There are lots of cautions against going with a hole of .250" dia. or smaller in the literature on this method. I believe this is so you can melt some web material before you melt the edge of the hole in the .1875" thk. flange and fill it up with steel from both pieces.



Mike has been making a lot of noise lately about buying a MIG Welder, I bet reasonably sharp people like us could teach ourselves to be a one-trick pony on this Plug Welding task with enough practice for learning curve and accuracy when heat, angle, motion and rod speed were figured out. Afterward, we could go on to do all manner of tasks after an appropriate practice interval.


As for our 10" 18 Ton RML Woolwich Gun Support, I believe it will be a sturdy Baltic Birch plywood box with a Royal Blue or Forest Green, professionaly sewn, felt, cover over it.



Tracy

Smokin my pipe on the mountings, sniffin the mornin cool,
I walks in my old brown gaiters along o my old brown mule,
With seventy gunners beind me, an never a beggar forgets
Its only the pick of the Army that handles the dear little pets - Tss! Tss!

From the poem Screw-Guns by Rudyard Kipling

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post #554 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 02:33 AM
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Although I suppose it is not typical plug welding protocol, I would machine the top of the vertical piece to have a number of protrusions perhaps an 1/8" tall and 1/4" long that would extend through holes in the horizontal piece with the welds being between these extensions and the cross piece. My goal is to minimize the weld pool size in the cross piece to minimize the amount of melted steel that, when contracting during cooling, would cause the cross piece to warp.


I am no welding engineer but have seen warping when doing welds like this, especially long continuous welds. I have been able to deal with the warping with the big hammer but that does not seem to be a good way when you are looking for a nice finish.


Maybe a trial piece is warranted.

GG
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post #555 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 08:15 AM
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With all the weight of this cannon I am in the process of building a hand cart/shooting bench for my cannon. I have gathered all the materials, cut out the wood parts and just waiting for the thaw to start putting together. The front legs fold back for moving (if I decide I need them). The cart will be ~ 34"w x 60" l x 32" h. The wheels (steel spoke not wood) are 20" diameter each rated for 1000 lbs. The cannon and Zulu's gun position can be removed if I want to use it for something else. Meanwhile inside from the cold I just completed my first attempt at a flintlock rifle build. Now back to cannon/mortar projects.
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post #556 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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GGaskill, I think your modified plug weld technique will not only work, but work very well. I believe it is well thought out and logical. We will definitely do several experiments to see just how it works. Dominick has warned me more than once about having too much heat in a welded area.


Gls, I like your your cart/shooting bench a lot. What a unique combination, sturdy and practical, yet elegant at the same time. A clever solution which provides an answer to both display and shooting pursuits. I am looking forward to seeing it in person. I'm thinking that our large Baltic Birch Box might be very weighty. Perhaps I could add a mobility feature to it as well.


Hard to believe that is your first effort at building a flintlock rifle. It is very, very good looking. I have always loved wooden patch boxes and yours looks very nice! What caliber and barrel type did you use?


Tracy

Smokin my pipe on the mountings, sniffin the mornin cool,
I walks in my old brown gaiters along o my old brown mule,
With seventy gunners beind me, an never a beggar forgets
Its only the pick of the Army that handles the dear little pets - Tss! Tss!

From the poem Screw-Guns by Rudyard Kipling
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post #557 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 08:03 AM
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Thanks Tracy. I somewhat modeled the hand cart on the victoran era ones. I would like more period looking wheels than what I got. Might see if Dominick can help. The rifle barrel is a Rice .50 caliber swamped barrel. This was a kit but took many hours and patience to make sure it was right.
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post #558 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 08:54 AM
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GLS,

Look at some of the wheel makers light carriage wheels. They also have Vendor cart wheels that might work.

Also think about making the legs slightly longer than the wheels, like in the British traveling carriage. Legs down the wheels do not touch the ground. Put the wheels on, tip the table up slightly onto the wheels, fold the leg front leg up and transition from table to cart.
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post #559 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Default Product Improvement!!!!!

I have been thinking about making a very unique feature available to you fellows who signed up to own one of these beasts. Because it is an extremely close tolerance item and also is authentic and functional on this gun, and worth approx. $200, I have decided to let you fellows decide whether we include it or not. Since we promised everyone that the whole gun would not go north of $1,250, we must stick with our promise that you will not owe us more than the $900 that you do now after buying Zulu's marvelously authentic Gun Position No. 2.


This means that we will have to trade the capsquares, worth about $100 for your gee-whiz, super-addition of the completely functional, Eccentric Axle worth at least $200, which gives you the unique opportunity to raise the rear of your Gun Carriage after shooting, for an easy Return to Battery for Loading once again. You will NOT owe us the difference, just being able to make these close tolerance, complicated, Eccentric Axles and special bearings, rotational axle stops and special, Eccentric Axle Wrenches will be payment enough.



We included these unique axles on our premium cannon, the 100 Pounder Parrott Rifle, M1861 and they were a really big hit with our customers who had fun demonstrating the way the Eccentric Axle lifted the Carriage for easy rolling and lowered it down again for maximum friction during recoil after firing.


The fact is that omitting the capsquares will not be missed by any casual observer, because very, very few heavy Seacoast Guns had capquares, because the weight of the tube held it in place in the half round notch in the trunnion plate. The only guns of this type which needed them were the naval type because of the pitching and rolling of the ships during stormy weather. Lots of the land-mounted guns do not have these items attached, even in museum locations.



No, we can't do both for extra $. In order to meet our schedule, we must make all these cannons the same way for efficiency.


Please let us know soon, because I must convert my sketch of the mounted Eccentric Axle to an engineering drawing so it can be made precisely.


Please let us know what you vote for and why. Thanks.




Tracy & Mike


What the end of an Eccentric Axle looks like on a Rodman 15" Seacoast Gun. KABAR2 wrote a good description of what the two dimples mean in the "The Foundry Machinist Tool, Tool Marks and Tooling Contest" that we presented several years ago. He wrote, "The two center points are from 2 lathe operations turning the shaft of the axle off center giving it an elliptical or eccentric shape, this would allow the shaft to raise the carriage so the wheels would roll carrying the weight of the gun."



Smokin my pipe on the mountings, sniffin the mornin cool,
I walks in my old brown gaiters along o my old brown mule,
With seventy gunners beind me, an never a beggar forgets
Its only the pick of the Army that handles the dear little pets - Tss! Tss!

From the poem Screw-Guns by Rudyard Kipling

Last edited by seacoastartillery; 01-27-2019 at 04:05 PM. Reason: Add descriptive photo and text.
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post #560 of 861 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 04:57 PM
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I will go with the eccentric axle. I can make my own cap squares later if needed but the axles would be a bit more than
I care to try. Do you have the drawings/dimensions for the cap squares.
GLS
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