Questions regarding some 1/2 scale 6lb builds / build thread - Page 2 - Graybeard Outdoors
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 08:32 AM
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You are off to a good start.

Don't polish any greater that 240 or so and probably not even that much. The standard commercial gun polish for a blued rifle is only 240.

You will find paint will not stick the barrel very will even at 240. If you are going to paint it, do about 180 grit, then prime with a good primer and then paint. If you want shiny, paint it with gloss paint.

Do you have access to a bead blaster, that would work wonders.

Polishing a cannon to 2500, if you even can, is going to result in hideous.

The problem with shiny finish is they tend to show the imperfections. Here is the first cannon I ever made. I started on this on my lathe, the day I got home from my very first machine tool operation class in college. You can see the novice operator tool marks in the barrel quite clearly. The gloss paint makes the imperfections stand out. If I had painted the barrel matte the marks would be barely noticeable.



Just something for you to think about.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-07-2018, 03:25 PM
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I have to agree with DD about how far you want to go in smoothing the finish of your barrel. All the real pieces that I have seen had a slightly rough finish. A few years ago I was lamenting the "rough" finish on a Hern Coehorn mortar until Seacoast Artillery posted a pic of a gift barrel they were working on- I've seen smoother moonscapes. If you can make a fixture to allow the barrel to be turned as you work it will help, a belt sander with appropriate grit belt will do a good job. I may be of more help when you get to the carriage.

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUNNUT in Iowa View Post
I did mine this way.

I used the same Lock, but drilled a stainless steel bolt to hold a .22 nailgun cartridge. I believe it has more "power" than a musket nipple and therefore a more likely shot.



Hey any chance you or anyone else with that lock set up for .22 cartridges could post a high-res closeup?

I'd like to see how far up I need the cartridge to sit for the thing to hit the primer properly. It's pretty clear I can't flush-mount, but I'd like to try and get it as close as I reasonably can.

One more question for drilling the bolt - can I drill it for the standard cannon fuse diameter and just have it wider at the end for the .22 cartridge?

I made a quick diagram of how I'd like to drill the bolt in MS Paint encase that question didn't make much sense. The reason I'm thinking this is to keep from venting too much pressure through the fuse hole. I feel like a .22" vent hole would be wide enough to significantly reduce the power of my powder charges.

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 12:24 PM
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You will not lose significantly more pressure with the .22 vent. My half scale Dominic C Parrott uses a hammer and power gun .22 cartridge without any problems. DO NOT stand over the vent when firing!

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 01:48 PM
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A good compromise is to drill it for fuse and drill the top for the 22 cal primer ( the 209 shotgun primer will also fit ) . You then have the option of using any of them.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shdggsdv View Post
v The reason I'm thinking this is to keep from venting too much pressure through the fuse hole. I feel like a .22" vent hole would be wide enough to significantly reduce the power of my powder charges.
It depends on the bore size of your cannon. Smaller guns, say smaller than .75 yes probably some loss of pressure but I wouldn't say significant above that. Any gun large enough to be considered for this type of ignition isn't going to be much affected by a .226+ vent.

Last edited by double d; 10-23-2018 at 02:20 PM.
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