I like the mold improvements. Funny thing is I have the same setup for casting my larger 1.5 Projectiles. And for some reason I get a lot more smoother casting of the projos with the larger one than I did with the smaller ones.
I do think the wrinkles are more troublesome cosmetically than performance wise though.
The Cannon almost looks like miniature setting next to your larger one. And the 30mm is not a tiny Cannon by any means.
Yes you can shoot wrinkled bullets, until you start looking at accuracy, no wrinkles will shoot better.
They say a thermometer helps, but I just keep raising the temperature until the wrinkles go away. After 45 year I finally got a thermometer. Used it one time and noticed how hot my metal wasn't. Since then I keep forgetting, just go by "feel".
It probably isn't super easy to see, if not impossible, but the slug hit the target in the near distance (50 yards from the gun), on the lower left, keyholing before burying itself in the dirt pile. So, the rounds are not stabilizing out of the barrel apparently (not really a big deal, but good to know that accuracy is going to be limited on longer shots.
That recoil looks pretty severe.
Did the capsquares survive intact?
Yup. Everything appears to be fine. It's a pretty rugged little carriage. But that is a pretty big slug (around 14 ounces, I believe, or about a 6000 grain projectile). That's pretty big for such a little gun.
If I ever decide to get creative, I might think about taking Bruce's carriage design and blowing it up a bit, maybe putting 24" or even 36" wheels on such a carriage. Sure, the gun will look pretty tiny on a such a big carriage, but I think it might be a bit more suited to power it is putting out. Mabye I'll see if I can chrono the projectile coming out, if I can get my hands on a cheap/used chrono that I don't mind taking a beating (once I get a better feel for where it's hitting and can reliably repeat hits in a small enough target). Though the keyholing may make that impossible.
Beowulf. Nice cannon. Try temps around 800. When I cast 2.25” projectiles, I consider the 1st five or so to be sacrificial used to warm the mold which is also preheated. Just put em back in the pot to re-smelt. Watch for any temp drop. Can you recover any projectiles to view rifling engagement? I learn a lot from the recovered rounds. Some places may frown on digging up the berm. Does your bottom pour allow a quick enough fill?
I actually have one or two fired projectiles I recovered. I will post them asap..I know I use the same mold concept for my 1.5 lead projectiles for my Hughes. I have Fired it quite a few times at over 100 yards at Plywood targets and barrels. Never had a keyhole with those so this is interesting the smaller rounds are not stabilizing.
I wander if it may have something to do with where the donor section came from in each barrel. I believe they were all a gain twist type rifling. That could be the possible difference in getting a correct spin. Just a theory though. There will be different twist rate depending if the barrel may have come from the front or rear section. Maybe something else worth a try, maybe open the diameter of the driving band a little. But when I show you the pic of the fired projectile, someone may see a problem that may exist. But they definitely show rifling grooves
Also I wander if a cast Zinc round that is lighter may stabilize better. Might be worth a shot so to speak..
Forgot one other thing. I think someone asked this. What sort of lead do you use. I use wheel weights for my Hughes and this one. Might experiment with some lighter loads also. That may help stabilize them better.