1/3 scale build progress - Page 5 - Graybeard Outdoors
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post #41 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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3 inch stock was then rounded at the corners and holes drilled for the screws going through the trail. All I had was 1/4 inch carriage bolts but I think they're too big aesthetically. What does everyone think about reducing the carriage bolts?
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post #42 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 08:40 AM
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I also think carriage bolts would be to big. I ended up using screws with the head diameter that looked right then filed and filled the driver hole with epoxy. The down side to this is, once installed theres no removal without drilling out the epoxy. I'd have to go look at the plans but I don't think the box fasteners went all the way thru the trail. I'm liking the build pics they should help out future builders. And Merry Christmas.

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post #43 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Merry Christmas NorthwoodNeil, big shout out to you for your correspondence and guidance!!!! Hey you'll be happy to know I just checked my FedEx tracking number and the RP wheels will arrive tomorrow!!!!!! I am very excited!!!!
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post #44 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 02:57 PM
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Carriage bolts heads are to big. But put them in the lathe and turn the heads down and they will look right.

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post #45 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 02:59 PM
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Carriage bolts heads are to big. But put them in the lathe and turn the heads down and the will look right.



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post #46 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 07:13 PM
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Yup that will do nicely. Wheels really help put everything in perspective. I think it's a 4 or 5 degree bend on the ends of the axle shaft. It might not be needed but I like the look. If I'm not mistaken the camber was put in to help the cannon track better on the wheel rut roads of yesteryear. It probably also helped in making tight turns on the battle field. With the chamber it also kept the dished wheel spokes perpendicular to the ground for strength.

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post #47 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northwoodneil View Post
Yup that will do nicely. Wheels really help put everything in perspective. I think it's a 4 or 5 degree bend on the ends of the axle shaft. It might not be needed but I like the look. If I'm not mistaken the camber was put in to help the cannon track better on the wheel rut roads of yesteryear. It probably also helped in making tight turns on the battle field. With the chamber it also kept the dished wheel spokes perpendicular to the ground for strength.
Do you have the AOP plans, I think the camber angle is there.

Take a look at the Hansen Wheel website axle http://www.hansenwheel.com/store/wag...nnon-axle.html . They turned the taper on the end of a square rod. Then crimped the end so it put the taper at a angle.





This my Wheel set for my bowling ball mortar using the square rod axle.
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post #48 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-26-2019, 02:11 PM
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You don't need a lathe to reduce the size of the bolt heads. Hold the bolt in your hand and apply the edge of the head to a grinder wheel. The bolt will turn in your hand as it reduces in size. You can also add a small bevel to the end the same way.

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post #49 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-28-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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little seacoast, thats some good info right there, I'll try it!
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post #50 of 74 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 01:08 PM
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When I get lazy on a non critical dimension part such as this, and do not want to use my Lathe, I just chuck the part to be turned down in my hand drill. And ride it against my running bench grinder, a file, or whatever works.
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