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Thread: Tale of Two Mausers a M93 to 45 ACP and M95 to 35 Rem Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-09-2019 02:23 PM
8uck5nort
Some Pix of Progress

I have been steadily working on this project. I have been waiting for some back ordered parts to come in from Brownells since Sept 8th so I have not been able to finish this one up yet. I just need the rear sight assemble and the front sight insert. The it is done except for the the metal finishing. I silver soldered on the front sight ramp and I also installed the Wisner side swing safety. I also set a home brewed battery and salt water etching system. I got the barrel properly marked. I also have about 100 rounds down the tube both factory and hand loads. It does pretty good really.
08-18-2019 07:20 PM
8uck5nort Busy weekend with 35 Remington. I have the stock about 98% done. Just tweaking minor shaping and getting all the rasp/sanding marks out. I have it finished out at 80 grit. Any marks I see in the finish are light so I am going to work it in 120 grit next. I also have begun working the bottom steel getting pits out and filing/polishing. I am still going to sand blast and park all the metal. I probably am going to go with a semi gloss black Duracoat finish to somewhat match the gloss black Redfield scope.

I also set the headspace on the barrel. I ran 11 rounds through it from the bench. 9 rounds were Montana Gold 158 gr sitting on top of 11.0 gr Trailboss. Ran these first to check for any obvious issues. Then ran a 200 gr Rem Corelokt factory round down the tube followed by a 195 gr cast bullet sitting on 9.0 gr of Trailboss. They all stabilized at 50 yards and we're on paper so I got a starting point.
08-13-2019 04:30 PM
8uck5nort Thanks ulav8r.

I did do a single reheat after quenching, but not a second. I am using the same propane torch I used to get to a dull red glow to begin with. So I am approximating at best. I did note a light straw (yellow) to light orange color when I heated after the quench. I will re-heat again like you suggested before I go for the final finish. I will also inspect under low magnification for any cracks or striations on the working surface.

I also printed out the color chart to put in my project binder for reference.
08-13-2019 02:15 PM
ulav8r https://i.pinimg.com/564x/48/5d/11/4...db133550ba.jpg

I think 450-465 should be your target tempering temp. If using color, temper once, cool, polish, and temper again. Bring the heat up slow and cool slow. If using an accurate furnace, one heat and slow cool would suffice.
08-11-2019 09:36 PM
ulav8r Now you need to draw both hardened surfaces to reduce brittleness. They are too apt to break in their current condition. Based on color, they should be drawn to a straw color, temperature wise about 375-390, based on my hazy memory. Therefore you should research for reliable confirmation of the temperature/color. Delaying too long can sometimes lead to cracking solely from internal stresses.
08-11-2019 10:45 AM
8uck5nort
Family Photo Continued

As promised more of the tale.

So picking up after re-discovering things under spring tension tend to launch, and then you get to go find them. It also helps to have an extra set of eyes...

Anyway, the following evening I set about soldering the piece in place. Even though I figured out how to keep it all lined up and prevented soldering the moving parts in place. The extra solder did find a way to harden in spots it should not and prevented smooth operation. So after some filing and refitting I finally had it working again. I now had a complete safety conversion. So final step was assemble and test.

Fourth Problem. You can do everything right and still be wrong...

Sop there are rwo things that must happen when you engage the safety. One you can directly observe the other you have to just kind get a feel fo it. The direct observable part is the the safety will cam against the face of the cocking piece. This pushes it back about .020 inches off the sear of the trigger and blocks the firing pin. It also cause the plunger assembly half moon shape extension into the half moon notch on the bolt which is hidden by the bolt shroud and locks the bolt assembly in the rifle when the safety is "On".

At this stage it looked like it I just needed to file off the some material from the cocking piece to get the camming action going. Getting the safety to easily cam against the safety on a mauser is really more art than science. I have had safeties operate as smooth as butter and others you need a 2 ton winch to rotate. I have always just lightly filed and/or polished the cocking piece and safety to smooth out the operation on prior mausers. So based on my past experiences I focused on this area. After all the safety moved it just would cam the cocking piece. I started the filing process and polishing process. I kept track of my removal and .060 inches later I could clearly see a gap and the safety simply was not engaging the surface to even start the cam action on the cocking piece. At this point the light bulb went off... Hey I am a slow learner. The half moon extension must not be going into the half moon cut out on the bolt... But, but, but it worked when I assemble the bolt. The safety move freely. Then I noticed what the issue was. When the bolt was assembled and then placed into the rifle the cocking piece must follow the grooves
cut into the rifle as does the locking lugs etc... I noticed the bolt shroud while inserted into the receiver canted the shroud just ever so slightly. However it was enough to cause the half moon to bind while trying to engage in to the half moon slot. Based on the I just had to relieve a tiny amount of material on the half moon notch on the bolt and viola the safety now moved freely. So freely it just barely touched the now ground upon cocking piece. At least the safety operation was smooth now. Unfortunately now I had a real problem on my hands. I could engage the safety and you could not fire the weapon. However, the trigger would "stick" when trying to depress it and as soon as you released the safety, WHAM, it would fire. Oh boy, not good. OK so now I quit for the evening and pondered my next move. I either try and repair this somehow or order new cocking pieces from Numrich.

I ended up doing both. The next morning before work I ordered 2 "new" cocking pieces from Numrich. By the time I got home I had a plan to try and fix the existing issue I created with the original cocking piece. I decided to do something I normally never mess with. I removed about .030 inches of material from the cocking piece that contacts the sear. Once I removed the material I reassembled the bolt and reran my function test. IT WORKED PERFECTLY! So I then heat treated the now two worked surfaces by heating to a dull red and quenching in oil. Did a quick skip test with a file and the reassembled again. I double checked, triple checked, quadruple checked my safety function. It worked as it should. Trigger is crisp. Safety function smoothly and no galling on the mating surfaces. Whew.... What a ride. Oh and I have 2 cocking pieces in reserve should a future problem arise.

I plan on updating this some pictures later.
08-10-2019 11:02 PM
8uck5nort I plan on sand blasting the metal to a matte finish. Then Parkerizing. If I don't like the parked finish then a duracoat in either a gun blue or black matte to semi gloss finish. I will leave the bolts either polished steel or polished cold blued.
08-10-2019 12:29 PM
neckisred Great work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Any plans on the metal finish?
08-10-2019 10:44 AM
8uck5nort
Current Family Photo - Progress Update

Been doing some more work. I had to put down the M93 for 45 ACP for a while.

Extraction: It occasionally still gives me fits ejecting the spent round. I think I have it traced to the fact the the ejection spring is just worn out. I believe it is not snapping into the ejection groove on the bolt during the ejection stroke fast enough with the existing leaf spring. I have wrapped a rubber band around the action holding the ejector tight against the bolt and run the action. I get reliable extraction, but but it does not extract as reliably without the additional tension. So now how do I fix it. I can try and replace the spring if I can find one. However, I run the risk of putting in another worn spring. Or I can attempt to manufacture my own leaf spring from scratch. Problem is I am not sure if this will resolve the issue since I do not absolutely know if it is indeed worn out as I suspect. It may be a case it will not work with modified over sized extractor that came with the kit. I also thought about installing a coil spring somehow to add a similar tension that the rubber bands currently supply. I am not sure exactly how I would do that.

Feeding: It is almost 100% reliable as long as I cycle it with authority like a Mauser should be. First round in from an 8 round mag is typically the one that will give me issues if they present. Polishing the action and bolt plus putting in a slightly weaker firing pin spring has helped this area greatly. I am not sure how to tweak further. Maybe add some more metal to the feed ramp area for that first round to change the angle of entry? Don't know.

Stock: Looking good. I just think the fore end still needs thinning. So I will tweak that as I go. The wood working is by far easier to do. I will probably get the bottom line straight and flush with front action screw tang on the bottom metal. I have about 1/16 inch of proud wood before it is flush on the front action screw. That will set the line demarcation. I think that will look better than the gentle "s" curve I currently have.

Onto the M95 to 35 Remington.

I was not going to mess with this one until I had the 45 ACP conversion finished, but I had an "Ah Ha" moment on a doing the Wisner swing safety conversion on the bolt shroud.

The tooling and knowledge Problem: I had acquired the 1/8 inch slit and woodruff cutter to do the required modifications to the bolt shroud. I had planned on using my quasi milling set up on my drill press to do the slit cut and use my lathe and cut the other required modification using the woodruff cutter.

Three problems arose, really four.

First problem is I have no practical machining experience doing any of these precision cuts reliably. So I grabbed the original M93 shroud that was so badly pitted that it was rendered unusable. Well it became my practice piece. I set up the slit cutter in my drill vice. Measured and layed out the cut lines using a sharpie and scratch awl. Oh almost forgot as a bolt shroud holder I used an old Buehler scope base that had the slit machined up to the ring hole. They used a screw to tighten the base onto the scope ring. Well it was almost the exact diameter of the shroud buttress screws albeit slightly smaller. So I annealed the Buehler base. Then used some valve cutting compound and managed to get the buttress thread to cut just enough to be able to screw in the shroud. It just so happens one of the scope base mounting holes lined up safety shaft hole on the bolt shroud. So I screwed the bolt shroud in as far as I could. Just before it fully seated I lined up the safety shaft hole with the screw mounting hole on the Buehler base. I then used a broken 223 de-capping pin that had roughly the same diameter as the safety shaft hole and cut it down and machined it in my lath as a stepped pin to "lock" the shroud in place to keep it from rotating further in my cobbled together jig. Now I can clamp down on the sides of the scope base thus holding the shroud firmly in place without boogering up the threads or crushing it during the machining process. This worked great in my drill press mill setup but the Buehler base was too big to fit in my lathe tool post. Plus the best I could figure I was going to have to the cut blind due to the lathe set up. Now there was probably a way to do it, but I just did not have the know how and experience to see it. Plus when I went to use the slit saw to make my first cut on the shroud I quickly discovered the fatal flaw in my home made milling drill press. Lateral cutting is difficult at best on soft materials using a drill press due to the how the drill it holder is seated in machine. Doing a precision cut on hardened steel. Well I found out that was going to be nearly impossible if not out right impossible. Sigh... So much for that plan.

So I decided that I will just do it by hand with hand tools and Dremel bits since I got my bolt shroud holding jig done. Just being able to clamp it and keep the thing from moving while working on it is half the battle. Right?

Second Problem. Soft metal is easier to work than hard metal. Duh...

So know armed with my jig and a practice piece I set out with files and my Dremel armed with diamond, stone and cutter bits of all shapes and sizes. I did not do any annealing on the my practice shroud and had no issues getting the cuts started. Oh and just for the record I used a sharpie and scratch awl to layout my cuts. So I measured. Measured again. Then measured one more time and finally set about the task of removing the material. Several hours later I had a functioning side swing safety... Which actually stunned me. Well that was not that bad. I had cut the slit a little too deep. Also mis-measured the side cut by about a 1/16 inch, but it was functional up to that point in the conversion process. Which up to this point was my main hurdles. The two obvious mistakes I made were easily correctable. OK. Satisfied! Let's tackle the real deal. So I pulled the Chilean and in excellent shape bolt shroud. I cleaned it up. Had to do some slight adjusting on my Buehler scope base jig to get it thread, but no big deal. I sharpied and then tried to scratch awl my lines and I thinks to my self "hmmmm this scratch awl must be dull. It isn't scratching very well. Whatever I can see it ok for now, so come on lets keep moving!" Yeah, should have known right then and there. I did not anneal the work surface before I started. A couple of snapped drill bits later as I was trying to get a starter hole going I finally figured it out. So I got the torch out got the the metal a dull cherry red in the work area. Let it slow air cool as I had no clean dry sand. It was enough once I got it cleaned up again and re-measured, and now re-scratched with layout. The started bit actually bit instead of skipping all over the place and then breaking. Now the drilling and the cutting and fitting of the swing safety commenced in earnest. Several hours later I had the safety fitted working up to that point. Now came the part of the that I had not been able to practice on fitting the modified shroud to the actual bolt and seating it the rifle and actually getting it to work... I thought I was half way home at this stage... Yeah. No. The issues and a test of my patience were just getting started.

Problem 3: Springs Launch Things... This one is pretty obvious, however I relearn it every so often just to keep my humility healthy. I was having a hard time getting the plunger, spring and half moon shaft stop aligned correctly to the safety shaft notch on the bolt body. You have to silver solder the stop in place in such a way to all the spring/plunger assembly to freely move back and forth when the safety is operated and engage the notch on the bolt body. You just can't solder it in place and hope for the best. So I spent a great deal of time dry fitting this thing in the bolt shroud safety shaft and then putting the bolt assembly together then mounting it on the bolt and trying mark it and then figure out a way keep everything lined up while trying to silver solder it place while keeping the other parts the need to move freely from getting silver soldered all the while keeping that lined up to make sure it engages the bolt body. Needless to say after several cycles of this seemingly impossible task I finally got everything marked, lined up, and a way to reasonably keep it all lined up and solder it in place. I just had to remove one more time for cleaning and de-greasing for the soldering job. That is when it happened. I had been mindful of keeping my finger over the plunger when taking it apart so it would not eject the half moon stop out of the safety shaft. Well this time I for whatever reason failed to do so. All I heard was twang, tink and skitter... Sigh.... So for the next hour I am on my hands and knees crawling around on the floor looking the stop and the spring. I found the stop rather quickly but that spring just continued to elude me. Now it is almost 11 pm. I have work tomorrow. I hot and sweating. Dripping sweat at this point. But I am a stubborn and now I am getting angry at myself for being an idiot... The cycle of self violence is starting... About that time my wife opens the door and simply states "You coming to bed any time soon. It is 11 already. She then begins to turn, stops and right next the door she picks up the @#&**@ spring and asks "Hey why is this spring on the floor?" I simply walked over to her took the spring and said "Where the ##$%# were you an hour ago?" Turned around and shut the lights off in the shop and said "Yes dear, I am ready to go to bed now".

There is more, but I am going out shooting today. So I will continue this post later. Anyway here is some updated pics from this morning.
07-27-2019 10:37 PM
ulav8r Hard to tell for sure, but I think you are close. Put a straight edge on the bottom of the forearm, from the front of the magazine box to the beginning of the tip. A straight line would look best, or a slight curve that is consistent from end to end,
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