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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-19-2019 09:43 PM
8uck5nort The stub I currently have is about 3 inches long and .980 inches in diameter. However, I will have another barrel when I get the project rifle. I will not have the rifle in hand until June or early July. So I can have a stub of any length desired. Yes they are threaded for the action.

Yup that is the exact GM barrel. At this point I am planning on doing another custom stock so a straight reduced diameter tapered contour is exactly what I was thinking.

I have the 45 acp mauser up and running so we can use that as guide for how to headspace the 10 mm auto with a mauser bolt. I am going to stick with the 10 mm auto.
03-19-2019 04:51 PM
jedman Darrin, I am swamped with projects for the wife and myself but for you or Tom I can find some time to help.
First, How long is your barrel stub, I assume it has the correct thread to screw back in to the reciever , correct ?
Are you talking of using the GM 40 cal. blank that is about 1" dia. X 20" long ? I made a handi barrel with that blank and shot .401 bullets out of plastic 410 casings to be a OH legal deer gun before we got the strait wall rifle rule.
I just happen to have a 40 S&W / 10 mm profino reamer and could come up with a tool or reamer to throat it depending on what kind of bullet you intend to use. Just in case you have never heard of it Starline makes 10 mm magnum brass also.
I have a barrel chambered in it for a profino zip gun I built, hence the reamer I spoke about. Don't think it would work with 45 ACP mags though, to long OAL.
Are you wanting to put this back in the same stock from a original 93 Mauser, even though I know it will be customized by your great woodworking skills ? I could do a strait taper on the blank from the end of the stub to muzzle without spending weeks of time to do a actual profile like modern guns have or could turn it the same diameter from the front of the stub to the muzzle.

As far as head spacing the barrel I think we would have to see if the bolt face needs modified first as I do not remember if they are flat or if they are recessed or something else ?
I can tell That I am already getting to long winded thinking about this . My wife and I are going to FL like always around the end of this month for a couple weeks. I will send you my email address and home phone when I get back and we can discuss a bunch of details.
Once you actually own a true profino firearm you will learn all of the secrets that manny and red have passed down.

03-19-2019 04:07 PM
8uck5nort Appreciate it. This project will not pick up for a while. Gotta finish my other 2 mausers already in the works.

They make 1911 10mm Auto specific mags that are dimensionally the same. I picked up 1911 in 10 mm Auto so I have some mags to work with.

I am probably going to start with a 20 inch 40 cal blank from green mountain.

The extractor will probably need reworked as well as the ejector, even with the mag kit from Rhineland. I think I can collar the bolt face. Will silver solder be strong enough for the sleeve and bolt face work?
03-19-2019 08:41 AM
bikerbeans Mr. B. Snort,

Manny and Red don't answer questiions this early in the morning. Once Manny is fully awake and has switched from drinkin' squeezins to coffee i will ask for his advice.

Looks like you are wantin' to build a baby 450 BM. The old headspace off the case mouth trick. The 10mm round is a bit smaller in diameter than a 45acp, will it work in a 45 acp mag?

I will rattle Jed's cage about your project.

03-18-2019 04:17 PM
Need Some of Dat Profino Magic

I come before the Profino Secret Society and humbly seek "the" wisdom.

I am gathering up materials to do a M93 mauser in 10mm Auto. My initial intention is to use a Rhineland Arms 45 ACP mag well adapter and 1911 mags. I know bolt face and extractor will need some work but should be doable. I plan on sleeving a 40 cal blank into the original 7x57 barrel stub. So what is involved in actually cutting the 10mm Auto chamber and headspace so I don't screw it up. I have HF mini lathe to help with that or as I sometimes find just screw it up much faster. Can I use a finish reamer on a Green Mountain 40 cal blank to cut the camber or is their a rough cut one and then use a finish one? Throat reamer, maybe? Hope to get some guidance and maybe even some assistance on this one when I get going on it?

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