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Discussion Starter #1
Been shooting a 1860 Army around 1000 rounds, and started having trouble with the arbor (cylinder pin ) working loose.
Also, I noticed the slot for wedge is pretty banged up looking too.
I only shoot full power loads (30-35gr. fffg) and was wondering if this is normal wear, or am I just being to hard on this gun with my loads ,or do I just have a bad quality gun (ASM) :? Or both :shock:
--Willy
 

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Can tell you how they are put in...but it's a hard fix if you ever get one loose as the wedge slot has to line up with the barrel.

Are normally thightly threaded and then pinned...not cross pinned, but pinned from the rear. IF you cock the gun and lookd into the hammer recess, will see the miss-match of steel whee the end of the base pin comes through. That end is ususally kind of peened looking...some guns have a pin that is driven in that crosses the threads...others look like they are just peened (but suspect there was a pin in there). Pins seem to be made soft so that they will deform, letting them peen over and fill the hole tightly.

Basically, the peening and pin cross the threads, locking the tightly screwed in center pin in place. IF yours is loose, am betting that it's streached rather than coming unscrewed.

HAve had to do the center pin fix on an old brass framed revovler...if that center pin had anything but threading holding it in, I couldn't detect it. On that one, fitted the pin exactly were it needed to be, marked it, took it apart again, cleaned it and tinned it with lo-temp silver solder, put it back together and heated until the solder liquified. Fix lasted, but I'd not want to do the job a again.

On thing NOT to do, do not drive that wedge like you are pounding tent stakes. Once it pulls the barrel cylinder gap closed, any more force is just streaching the center pin/wedge slot.

Try a temp. "fix" of the wedge...just cut a thin shim of metal, glue it to the side of the wedge, and see if that fixes your problem. IF it does, then either an over sized wedge or welding and reshaping the current wedge may pull it all tight again. Do have one wedge still in service taht was tightened by soldering steel shims to the sides...if I wear it out, will weld it and reshape it, but it seems that a silver soldered shim works just as well as anything else.
 

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Armi San Marco products have been known to have problems. Is this a brass frame revolver?
 

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loose 1860

Some ASM 1860s came from the factory with loose cylinder arbors. If things start to move, the wedge will get banged up, as the barrel will be slammed forward when the bullet hits the forcing cone.

Basically, ASM guns were good wall hangers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's a steel frame ASM.

Thanks for all the replies.

--Willy
 

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If I'm not mistaken, your "full power" loads are way over what most manufacturers recommend. :shock: Should be between 24 to 30grs., tops. I use what comes out of the long spout Colt flask. About 24 grs. of Goex 2f. Have had no problems in the past years I've used my ASM 60's for CAS.

If that type of load is what you like, get a gun that can handle it or has a recommended load in that range. The 58 Remmie, any brand, and Ruger Old Army come to mind. The Colt open tops just can't handle a steady diet of those types of loads and will shoot loose on you. :wink:
Good luck. :)
 

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Don't think it's the loads, I've got over a couple of thousand rounds through a Pieta 60' army with only a little notching on the cylinder pin from flame cutting. This gun has shot nothing but 30-35 grain loads.
 

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Get the book by R. Chicoine "Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West" from your library (or, if you have a collection of sootburners, buy it). It shows in detail every cure of a misbehaving percussion arm.

I think to buy it at Amazon.com is only under $20.00.
 
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