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Am I correct in understanding that to make 256 Winchester cases, I start with a 357 Magnum case, run it through a 30 Mauser die and then into a 256 Winchester sizing die. This will produce a useable case?

Thanks in advance.
 

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JerryV, thats all. I use Winchester brass cases, not nickel plated cases. I guess the nickel plated cases can be used, but I have not experimented very much with them. The nickel cases wear the sizing die out quicker. I bought 200 unplated cases so thats what I use. The cases form so close I don't even fireform them. You may have to trim the lengh. 8)
 

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I just got a 256 and found that I can use a 32-20 die, to start the neck. I barely screwed it into the press, just enough to get the shoulder in the right location, then a 256 die in 3 steps. I used all nickle brass. I got a few split necks but not many. As the brass is pretty much free I didn't worry about loosing 10%, will try annealing them next time. Shotgunner
 

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I start with annealed brass and use the seater die lowered to about 1/4 inch from rim to begin the case and then just go directly to full length sizing. Don't even need to neck turn! I discovered this easy way after making all the other mistakes!!!
Gene
 

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palgeno said:
I start with annealed brass and use the seater die lowered to about 1/4 inch from rim to begin the case and then just go directly to full length sizing. Don't even need to neck turn! I discovered this easy way after making all the other mistakes!!!
Gene
I also tried this method, and it worked perfectly, didn't lose a single case!
 

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Good morning,
Sounds like ya'll do a lot of .256 Win Mag reloading, maybe someone can tell me if any bullet makers are making a 60 gr. hollow point bullet like the old .256 factory load. I had a Contender in .256 Win Mag with octagon barrel that would throw tight groups 1" at a 100 yds. if I did my part. Sold it to a friend and you know how the stoet goes. Would like to have a Contender carbine in same cal. if I could find me a supply of Winchester or better 60 gr. bullets. Thanks for listening.
 

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Sadly :'(, the old Speer 60 HP was long ago disscontinued. The Hornady 60gr flatnose is the only 60'er available that I'm avare of, but it does an admirable job :D
Walt.
 

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Actually, from a carbine I'd use the Hornady 75 grain hollow points. They'll shoot just as flat from a carbine as the 60's from a 10 inch .......and carry more energy downrange.

Curtis
 

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Thanks. i'will be interested to see how those 70 grs. perform. I hate to get back into reloading. LOL No more than what I shoot, I would probably be better off just buying a pistol in .22 RF.
 

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Dixiejack, the 256 was actually the caliber that started me hand loading back in the early 90s. Back then there were still a few boxes of WW factory ammo to be had if you explored the dusty areas of small town hardware stores. But soon the supply dried up and it was hand load only for me.

Ron Reed or one of the other custom ammo manufacturers might be your only source besides rolling your own. Already assembled rounds are likely to be pricey though.

Curtis
 

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I had already been reloading for 'bout 10 years in the early 70's when I got my first 256. It was however my first experience at forming brass and yes I learned some hard lessons. Good thing too...my next venture was the 30Herrett. I utilized(and still do) a 30Mauser die and case annealing and was told by somebody that plated brass was a no-no from the start. I never really came up with a good use for the 256, but, I enjoyed it throughly and still do for that matter. Come to think of it, what more good "use" do I need ;D. My 10" octagon barrel was my very first Contender and I added a S-14 a few years back...always thought it would be a neat carbine as well. I too have had good luck with the 75gr HP, especially in the 14" tube, but, I still shoot the stubby little 60's a lot. Mine has probably killed more beer cans than any barrel I own. ;)
Walt
 

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I started rolling my own in 1965-66 and my first caliber was a .22 K-Hornet. Fire forming was easy. Next came the .256 win Mag. Had a Contender with a 10" octagon bbl. Like you, I killed many beer cans and crows with it. I tried several different bullets (brand and weight) but found the Hornady 60 HP was the best bullet for my Contender. Don't remember the powder, but it seems like it was the same I used in the K-hornet. I got into the AI following and was loading 4 or 5 different calibers plus lots of .38's and .44"s and I almost forgot .410, 28, 20, 12 shotgun shells.. I got into the routine of load and go to the range. Tweak my loads and go to the range. One day I realized that I used to go to the range or out in the woods to plink a few rounds of .22 RF's and how much fun that was. I would buy a brick of what ever was on sale at J.C. Penney, when they were big into shooting sports, and go have some fun. I quit handloading except for breech seating my Scheutzen, Jr. and Stevens 47, both in .32-40. Even those are gone, much to my regret. I still have my first .22, a Remington 512 with a Weaver 4X scope my dad sold me for a penny in 1952. A lot of guns have gone through my hands and I regret selling or trading every one of them. Well, this conversation has gotten off track, but I'm going to study on another .256 Win Mag in an older model Contender with a 10" octagon barrel. Maybe find me a used press and some dies, brass, bullets, powder and that first round is going to cost me $800-900. LOL
 

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The RP 86 gr FP meant for the 25/20 will do 2350fps outta a 24" barrel and turn themselves inside out at 170 yards in a dirt bank. Have shot sealed popand beer cans they are completely flattened out and ripped into 2-3 pieces. Its just a mist when it hits them. Plan on loading the 75gr Hrndy hopefulley this next week and see what velocity they will do
 

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Worked on loading some of the 70gr Blitzkings this weekend, and it is obvious that i need a scope on my 256 to realize their true potential. That being said i got several 1/2 inch groups over the irons at 25 yrds. One load really stood out, 70gr Blitzking over 15.5gr of h4227 with winchester small rifle primers and remington 357 mag brass, I wish I had a chrony to see what velocities I was getting, but it vaporized soda cans, and shredded gallon milk jugs. I can't wait to try it on a 'yote!
 

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I form by annealing, seater then FL size with very few losses, even using nickel. Use good case forming lube for best results. My fav loads are 87gr seirra over 13.5gr of IMR 4227 and 75 V-max using the same charge. The heavy bullets work great for IHMSA BB half scale and if used on full size targets, rams must be hit from the top of the back on up the horn. The 75's are great on prairie dogs 200yds +. My barrel is a 12" Virgin Valley for my TC.
 

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Good reads on making 256 Brass.. I found a 10 inch bull 256 barrel a few years back. Fiddled with making brass until I got tired of destroying brass.. I'm thinking I'll pull out my 30 Mauser dies and make another run at it!
 

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stop, STOP....

Please stop talking about the .256 Win, especially in a carbine/rifle barrel. I'm trying to be satisfied with what I have but you guys are going to CAUSE me to spend money on another barrel.
I'm thinking bull barrel [definately my preferance over the tapered carbine barrels] in .25, and the .25/35 Win was my first choice but the .256 Win is sounding pretty neat reading here. A reamer could open it up to .25/35 Win if it ever got boring as a .256 Win, but I doubt it would : )
 

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I have been shooting my 10" octagon contender for a while now and a 21" carbine barrel is almost surely in the works :D
 

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Tuff round to be for varmits, still have my Marlin lever and it has sure taken its fair share of small ones and bobcats over the years
 
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