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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting ready to start my first casting project, casting a Lee 320gr REAL bullet for my .50 Hawkin sidelock.

I was wondering if I should only use Pure Lead or if the 30:1 blend sold by Midway would work as well, if not better? The BHN of the pure Midway lists at 6 and the BHN of the 30:1 they list at 8.
 

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Pure lead if you can get it...It helps the ball grip the patching better...and a lead ball actually "squats" when you pull the trigger...helping to get a better seal...so in theory it should be more accurate and help get a little better velocity...this is also why many competition shooters get better target accuracy with balls they cast over swaged balls...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would this theory also apply to a miniball bullet like the REAL? REAL stands for Rifling Engraved At Loading. It is a solid base bullet, so I don't expect the base to bump up when fired.

My understanding of the REAL bullet is that the base is slightly undersized and that the top driving band (or two) are sized larger.
thanks
 

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Sorry...I must be getting old...turning 50 this summer...LOL
I'm so tuned in to prb that I forget that some guys do shoot conicals...
Yes...I would say that same theory would hold true for REAL bullets...
look at Powerbelts...they are smaller than bore diameter and they also "squat" to engage the rifling...The only true way to see what your gun will do is to try both....If you are hunting whitetails I would think a pure lead conical
would have a better chance at mushrooming than a "mix"...
 

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leoparddog said:
I'm getting ready to start my first casting project, casting a Lee 320gr REAL bullet for my .50 Hawkin sidelock.

I was wondering if I should only use Pure Lead or if the 30:1 blend sold by Midway would work as well, if not better? The BHN of the pure Midway lists at 6 and the BHN of the 30:1 they list at 8.
Depends on how fast you want to push them. I use both weights of REALs in my TC Black Mountain Magnum .50 cal. Probalbly plain lead will work ok in your Hawkin. However, if accuracy goes south before you reach max safe level charges it is because the REAL is obturating too much and deforming to the extent of being harmfull to accuracy. You may then want to try the 30:1 or even 20:1.

BP cartridge shooters, particualrly with trapdoors use these alloys for best accuracy in the 1000 to 1200 fps range. The arsenals determined a 16:1 alloy was best for the trapdoor service loads in the 1300-1400 fps range. Thus I use a 16:1 alloy with a TC 350 gr Maxi-Ball in the Blk Mtn Mag. However, I am pushing it at 1570 fps which is probably a bit much for your Hawkin. I push the 320 REAL cast of 20:1 to 1400 fps with excellent accuracy. I'd bet at the upper velocities and safe loads possible in your Hawkin you would find the 30:1 or even a 20:1 alloy more accurate than pure lead. Well worth trying all three, that's part of the fun of working up your own loads.

Larry Gibson
 

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Nice explanatin Lock,I had not heard "Squat" before but it beats all I have heard including "Squish".
 

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REAL Bulets

LD;
I shoot 2 .45s and 2 .50s in the REALs, I just use ww's + 1% Tin.
The bullets are tapered, the bottom band is the smallest and the top band is the largest, 3 steps on the lighter ones and 4 steps on the heavier.
I have no problems loading them, even after several shots, but I use 777 , not BP.
Don
 
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