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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a little picture of a 32 H&R Mag using a 12 gauge stub and a British 303 barrel. The stub is bored about the 12 gauge rim diameter about 3/4 inch into the chamber, the round barrel nut fits into the counter bore and pulls the barrel up against the shoulder at the front of the stub. This has proven to me to be the easiest and most forgiving way to mount barrels in the stub. After you put it all together, just machine the breach end flush with the stub and cut the chamber and extractor slot. Larry

 

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That's very nice, now you could have 'switch barrel' custom Handi's. ...or do you permanently fix the lock nut in place? I'm guessing that you cut the chamber totally in the barrel or not? Great stuff, thanks.
 

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That is really cool Larry! :eek: Kinda makes me wish I was a machinist. :-\
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I fix it permanently in the stub. I did do a switch barrel once with a TC and it was a huge pain to get right, would not be too bad if you did not have to cut the ejector notch and then get them to ling up again when you change barrels. On the TC I put the threads at the front of the stub, then used a barrel nut like a Savage to lock it in place along with one of the Scope base screws that I drilled through into the barrels for alignment. These are much easier and cleaner to do. Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Now it assembled before blending the stub to the barrel and trimming the breach nut off. I bed everything in JB weld, not to hold it together but to seal every thing up. I just put a pipe wrench on the end of the nut because it is machined off when it is finished.

 

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Love it Larry!! Personally speaking, I would prefer the 327 over the H&R as one could still shoot the H&R as well as all smaller...

CW
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Now an ejector cut and forearm stud, a little polish and Parkerizing and off it goes. Larry

 

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How do you attach the forearm stud Larry? ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Salvage the section of shotgun barrel with the forearm lug attached. Bore it to a size that will be a very tight fit on the barrel in the proper position. I make them tight enough to have to drive on a little. Drill the threaded stud through the barrel and then tap it through with a 1/4 20 tap. We will make it look like a barrel band next. Larry

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Now grind off all the metal that does not look like a proper barrel band to you. Fit it in position on the barrel and check the fit with your frame and forearm. When it is right, take a very short 1/4 20 setscrew, (I grind the end round so it doesn't tear up the barrel so much) and put it down hard in the bottom of the forearm stud hole.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ejector notch cut and fitted, I used a modified Hornet ejector, if you are going to do a 32H&R Mag take care, the rim on them is only .016 high, so the fitting is very critical so that the rim will not jump the ejector when loading. You could also modify a .223 ejector to go higher some and install a lifter button. Larry

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Done for today, think I will start drinking now. Tomorrow I will shoot it and see if it blows up, then test the eject, if it is still whole I will sand blast it and parkerize the thing. Larry
 

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As usual Larry you underestimate your work. It looks great from here and whom ever has contracted you will be more than satisfied! I am sure!



CW
 
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