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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got back into shooting again and picked up a used 35 REM. Read in some reloading data that it is best to expand the neck to 375 then back down to 357 to help in fire forming new brass. Also read Mike Bellms says the are issues with the throat on these barrels. I was wondering how or what is the best way to approach this and also does this mean that neck sizing works best with this round.

Thanks for any feed back
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don't assume your barrel won't shoot factory ammo just fine..mine does. I bought mine used and had heard/read all the problems some folks have had..I have only shot loads made from once fired brass and factory loads (Hornady Leverevolution) in my barrel and have yet to have a misfire..Try it first, then take action if it doesn't perform as it should..BTW the Hornady rounds shoot very well from my barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For me half the fun in shooting is reloading. Never started thinking I was going to save much cash by reloading. I don't mind performing a few extra steps in the process. I just don't understand the reasoning behind the steps needed. I may get a box of factory ammo to see how things are. Having some sticker shock on the price of reloading supplies.
 

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Never had one problem from any .35 Rem barrel I've ever had. To be honest, I think info about bad chambers/throats is WAY over inflated just to drum up business for those making the claims. I know there are some that are going to slip through, and I have seen a misaligned chamber on ONE T/C .243 barrel....but thats the ONLY T/C barrel I have ever owned that wouldnt shoot.
I would venture to say your .35 Rem barrel is just fine, and will probably suprise you as to just how accurate it can be. My .35 Rem is very accurate with Hornady Leverevolution, have not handloaded for it yet...but have the dies. Enjoy your .35 Rem...its a fine deer cartridge!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the vote of confidence in the round. I went back and read some of the info again. Most of what was said is this is a brass issue on virgin brass. Sounds like the shoulder can be set back a little new brass. I was wondering if I could just set the bullet out a little to get a tighter fit and use a mild load the first time through. Outside of some semiauto most of my guns are fed hand loads and some have never tasted factory ammo.

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My 35 Rem barrel has no issues with headspace or misfires. I agree that I think this is way over blown. I'm sure it does happen, but I'm also sure it happens very infrequently. I have shot some Rem factory loads through mine, and they fired fine, no issues with the brass. My accuracy wasn't as good as with my handloads though. I have not tried the Hornady leverevolution in it.

My barrel loves the Hornady 200 gr round nose bullet the best.
 

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Flashole said:
I just don't understand the reasoning behind the steps needed.
The reasoning is to create a false shoulder at the correct dimension for proper headspace with your particular barrel and lot of brass. The reloading articles are written for reloading the 35 Rem in general so the "problem" is not limited to TCs. One thing you can do on your TC that is not so easily done with a rifle is directly measure the headspace of your combination. Then you know in advance whether or not you may expect a problem and whether such a process would prove beneficial. If you do have an issue I should think your fireforming proposal another way to accomplish the same result. Just proceed carefully.
 

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All you need to do to check your head space is remove the extractor(easily done), chamber the brass or ammo in question while the barrel is off the frame, lay a small straight edge across the breech and visually check the space between breech face and the back of the rim on brass. You can also measure the gap with feeler gauges if you want some numbers. Anywhere from exactly flush to protruding by a few thousandths or even recessed a very small amount is usually OK. I prefer to size my brass to where it protrudes about .003". This only tells you about the shoulder and nothing about the throat unless the bullet is seated soo long that it is engaging the rifling, which in a lot of cases just can't be done in TC barrels.
BTW, I have had and still do have several of those barrels with the notorious "toilet bowl throat" and have found them to shoot quite nice, especially with large cast booollets ;D 8) .
Walt
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks a bunch guys for the help. I found this clip showing how to check this on a TC. There is one thing I'm not sure about. If I start with new brass and it does not protrude or is recessed more than a few thousandths is that were I need to create false shoulder? At this point all I have purchased is the barrel. No dies, brass or bullets.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRWW43Tflgw

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Hello flashhole:
In reference to the problem you asked about; I have had a super 14 in 35 rem. for about 15 yrs. I reload for almost all my guns, and I had the problem that you were asking about, but only with reloads. All factory brands that I bought first worked properly and shot great. The problem came with the reloads, I contacted a friend who had been into TC's for 20+ years, the best info he gave me was to necksize only or create the false shoulder as some others have suggested.
I also have killed many deer with my marlin in 35, love the cartridge. I bought mine in the 70's when they were 88.oo. It's very accurate and I shoot 180 gr.fn in mine. The TC with 14inch bbl. doesn't loose much, power- wise to the marlin, or at least the deer don't know the difference.
You will not be dissapointed,
hope this encourages you,
safety first
HM
 
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