Hey, have any of you guy's tried a light powder charge and a 115gr 9mm hardcast bullet in a .35 Rem. I just shot one that a friend uses to shoot woodrats and such.......Very silent he uses this combo in his Marlin-36 should work great in a T/C. :shock:
I tried the .357 Speer shotshell in my .358 win. Didn't really get a good load worked up, used #12 shot and red dot powder. Something you might want to try if your looking for something different. Jerry J
Not a real good idea in 35 rem. The firing pin strike can drive the shoulder back and give too much headspace, might give you a suprise with full power loads if you used the same brass. Better to use the rimmed version or better yet a 357 mag for real light loads in a Contender.
Nobade have you ever actually SEEN that happen or just read of it from a certain source I'll not name?
Personally I think that line just don't hold water. Sure never seen it happen with the .35 Rem. which I've been shooting in both TCs and Marlins for a great many years. For that matter never seen it happen in anything. Just no way will I believe the firting pin can hit the primer with enough force to chage a shoulder angle or postition before the primer fires. Don't make good sense to me and don't match up with my observations.
......I was going to ask what that meant....I have never heard of such a thing...nor do I see any way any such thing can happen. I do a lot of experimenting with light loads....one such experiment was with a 30 Remington, rather than a 35 with 200 gr Billy Bullets. The only mishap that I ever had with super light loads was with that rifle, with 200 gr. Billy Bullets......I was doing the Limbo...(seeing how low I could go) ...got it down to 4 grs of Red Dot and tried for 3.0...the bullet was just protruding about 1/4 " out of the end of the muzzle. Very Embarassing....didnt know what to do about it.....tried to blow it out the rest of the way with a slightly larger charge packed with Cream of Wheat.....would not work, so now I had a really stupid situation, no way it is going to a gunsmith with a bullet stuck and about 3 ounces of Cream of Wheat stupidly stuck behind it. I just set it aside and muled it over for about a week, and finally figured it out. JUST A HINT HERE.....Be very careful with ANY reduced loads, the least you can do is to get a bullet stuck, the next thing that will happen is that you will ruin a perfectly good firearm, beyond that...the next step is that you could loose your eyesight, your hearing, sections of your face and/or hands or even DIE.
If you insist on these kind of experiments,
FIRST..DO NOT SIMPLY REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF THE POWDER THAT YOU NORMALLY USE IN A LARGE CAPACITY CARTRIDGE. YOU MUST USE DIFFERENT POWDERS FOR THESE LOADS (RED DOT, BLUE DOT, XMP5744 ect) Or use published Whisper data for sub-sonic loads if you have a small cartidge similar to the Whisper, like a 7.62x39. 2nd....Do not use a firearm that you cannot use a cleaning rod from the breech to pound out a stuck bullet. A Condender or a Bolt Action or other kind of Break Barrel is fine.
3rd...Lubed Cast bullets work best, and it is also a good idea to clean and lube the bore after each shot, you will be less likely to get one stuck.
4th...and maybe most important....Be sure the bullet has exited the barrel before chambering another one. Use a target, and count your hits, or simply look in the barrel. If there is a bullet stuck in the bore and you fire another round (especially a fully loaded round) say goodbye to your face.
5th...in my opinion...a 311 bore (SKS) works best with .308 bullets. It is a lot more forgiving with very small reduced loads, (Cat's Sneeze Loads as they are called in Finland, or S.W.O.S.=silent without a Silencer)and the size of the cartridge is very much like using a Whisper and less likely to have the problems caused with using a large capacity case.
6th, and my final opinion here........DONT DO IT! Stick with the published loads that are intended for safe operation in your firearm. This is the best way to guarantee your good health and eyesight. Live long and prosper.
Yep, I've had it happen in two different guns. Admittedly not in a Contender, but my Ruger 77 35 Whelen and a '96 Swede both ran into that problem. I was shooting very low pressure poofter loads through the Ruger, using the same brass dozens of times and sizing the necks with Lee collet dies. I noticed the primers ending up further out of the cases after they were fired, telling me the headspace was increasing. Eventually I got curious and held one of these cases up to one that had been fired with a full power load. You could easily see the shoulder had been pushed back. The Swede did the same thing eventually, but it took a lot more firings to see it, due to the much bigger shoulder and more body taper I would assume. I agree with you that most people aren't likely to run into this problem, and that factory 35 rem ammo probably has more variation in headspace than handloads that have been previously fireformed and then used with reduced loads. But I feel better about it, not to mention get better accuracy from it, using the rimmed 35 rem. that I made up myself and uses .303 Brit brass. If that guy is shooting light 9mm bullets with Bullseye or somesuch he's likely building plenty pressure initially to keep the case formed, but not much muzzle velocity or noise anyway. Just one of those things to keep an eye open for...
A little late getting in on this. It seems to me that for a shoulder to be set back from just the primer strike, it would have to have been set too far back in the sizing/loading process in order to for it to have enough slack to cause headspace problems with a full power load later on. If fire forming was done correctly, how can there be enough slack for this to happen. I know that we are talking .000's, but how can it be? Am I way out in left field or at home base? Pat :roll:
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