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Have you tried any factory ammo or is it all reloads? What primers are you using? Were they the same primers as the ammo you were using? Do the rounds not firing have any marks on the primers? How is you o.a.l, have you tried varying it?
 

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I'd start by changing the hammer spring out for a single coil Wolff EP spring and checking firing pin protrusion, are the brass and primers the same in all rounds, as Ocho queried? Brass with slightly different rim thickness and/or primers may make a difference, a new hammer spring and good pin protrusion would help, may also be a bad transfer bar.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have you tried any factory ammo or is it all reloads? What primers are you using? Were they the same primers as the ammo you were using? Do the rounds not firing have any marks on the primers? How is you o.a.l, have you tried varying it?
have never fired a factory round through the rifle. Winchester primers same on both ammo and primed shells. the pin strike on the loaded rounds is shallower than on the primed cases I was about to make a new batch of ammo by the numbers. could the crimp be too tight?
 

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Try holding the trigger to the rear when pulling it. With my 20 USH if I don't do that I get light primer strikes. When I do it it goes bang everytime.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Try holding the trigger to the rear when pulling it. With my 20 USH if I don't do that I get light primer strikes. When I do it it goes bang everytime.
That was my first thought but that wasn't it. Thanks for the reply.
I'd start by changing the hammer spring out for a single coil Wolff EP spring and checking firing pin protrusion, are the brass and primers the same in all rounds, as Ocho queried? Brass with slightly different rim thickness and/or primers may make a difference, a new hammer spring and good pin protrusion would help, may also be a bad transfer bar.

Tim
Now that I thought more on it I leaning more toward an ammo issue simply because if it were mechanical issue the rifle wouldn't fire at all, Make sense??? BTW Thanks for the reply.
 

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There's no need to crimp on a single shot, so you can eliminate that as an issue by not crimping ammo for this rifle.

Tim
 
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Is this one of the early blued Ultras (ejector 1:38"), or a stainless Ultra t-hole (extractor 1:20") ? The SS Ultra 45-70 had problems with a deep rim cut, it's possible the 444 version did too. If so, increasing pin protrusion up to .050"-.060" by removing a smidge off the tip of the hammer should solve the problem if the current protrusion is minimal.

I've read some data that crimping can increase accuracy minimally, crimping with some pistol powders like 110/296 can also improve burn/accuracy, I only used the Lee factory crimp die on rifle chamberings, crimping with a seater die was somewhat a can of worms for me, so I never liked using it.

Tim
 

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I can't imagine crimp causing a primer not to detonate, although weirder things happen so who knows. It does sound like an ammo issue, maybe you seated the primers slightly differently from one batch to the next. Easiest way to check would be to fire some factory ammo, and see if that has the same issues. Of course finding 444 right now is a challenge. Checking the firing pin to see if it is in spec seems like a reasonable idea, or swapping out the hammer spring to something a bit heavier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I can't imagine crimp causing a primer not to detonate, although weirder things happen so who knows. It does sound like an ammo issue, maybe you seated the primers slightly differently from one batch to the next. Easiest way to check would be to fire some factory ammo, and see if that has the same issues. Of course finding 444 right now is a challenge. Checking the firing pin to see if it is in spec seems like a reasonable idea, or swapping out the hammer spring to something a bit heavier.
Is this one of the early blued Ultras (ejector 1:38"), or a stainless Ultra t-hole (extractor 1:20") ? The SS Ultra 45-70 had problems with a deep rim cut, it's possible the 444 version did too. If so, increasing pin protrusion up to .050"-.060" by removing a smidge off the tip of the hammer should solve the problem if the current protrusion is minimal.

I've read some data that crimping can increase accuracy minimally, crimping with some pistol powders like 110/296 can also improve burn/accuracy, I only used the Lee factory crimp die on rifle chamberings, crimping with a seater die was somewhat a can of worms for me, so I never liked using it.

Tim
this is an H&R rebarrel from their rebarreling program. rifle came in 223
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
have never fired a factory round through the rifle. Winchester primers same on both ammo and primed shells. the pin strike on the loaded rounds is shallower than on the primed cases I was about to make a new batch of ammo by the numbers. could the crimp be too tight?
I checked OAL and found the ammo to be 25 thousands short of max, thoughts?
 

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I can't see how that would cause a primer not to detonate either, it's a rimmed cartridge so unless something was too long it shouldn't seat any differently. If I were a betting man, my guess is still something related to the primers. A bad batch (were the primed cases from the same tray?), seated a bit deep, or maybe not deep enough? How are you priming the cases?
 

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I checked OAL and found the ammo to be 25 thousands short of max, thoughts?
Overall length being short won't affect it but primers seated too deep would. Are the lightly dented primers seated flush or is there a recess?
 
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tonyc, To check if it is a headspace problem, fire a primed unloaded case and look at the primer after firing it. If it is protruding enough to see and feel with your finger tip you probably have to deep of rim recess. If so do what quickdtoo said about removing a smidge from the hammer tip to make the firing pin protrude a bit more.

jedman
 

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Two measurements are needed for headspace:

Barrel to receiver gap: measure with feeler gauge

Cartridge Head below (or in some cases above) the Barrel Breech Face: Insert case and measure distance the cartridge sits below flush with the end of a dial caliper.

Add the two measurements together to get the total headspace.

Should be 0.000 to 0.005" ideally but can be much higher if the chamber rim depth was cut to the maximum SAAMI spec and the brass case was made with a rim thickness closer to the minimum SAAMI spec.

Therein lies the dilemma.:unsure:
 

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I don't know about this seating primers flush, I learned primers need to be seated against the primer pocket bottom so the firing pin can work properly to fire the primer instead of seating the primer slightly deeper and leaving a light pin strike.

Tim
 

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Seating primer flush instead of bottoming out in primer pocket can take some energy out of the firing pin strike as it seats the primer the rest of the way when it strikes. I would load a couple with primer bottomed out and test.
 

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From the Speer Manual - "Primers must be correctly seated to avoid misfires. "High" primers - those whose anvil legs do not touch the bottom of the pocket - cause about 95 percent of all misfires. CCI primers provide the optimum sensitivity when seated 0.003" to 0.005" below flush with the anvils legs in contact with the bottom of the pocket. With practice, you will recognize how a properly seated primer feels as it is pressed into the pocket."

That said, I did have misfires once with a Handi from using too much force and seating the primers too deep.
 
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