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??? I have a BC 45-70 on the way and have talked to some of you about converting to 45-120 but I find that 45-90 and 45-100 brass are more readily available. I plan on shooting 405 gr and larger bullets at average speeds. I'll up-grade the sights as needed and plan on shooting smokeless powder although Jim Shockys Gold does create some interest with me. I have a few friends with Shilo Sharps rifles that I hope to compete with and probably would not hunt with this big long rifle unless a horse was involved. Would just like to have any and all input before the decision gets made. I don't want to leave it as a 45-70 I already have one and want this to be different.
thanks in advance for your help. - F50
 

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There's no doubt the 90 and 100 brass is readily available and considerably less expensive, but they don't have the "shock and awe" of the big 120, that's why I went with it, the others just seem to be also rans in that department, bigger just looks better!! ;D

Tim
 

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sorry, not to hijack this thread...
are the 90's available as ready made ammo, by remington or whoever ?
or is it handloaded only ?
 

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Stick with the 90. Unless you're loading black powder, there's really not much difference due to the case capacity and smokeless powders available.

I have a 90 and I love it!
 

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Tim,
i have a few questions about this, but i dont wanna hijack this thread..
i'll pm ya ..
 

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smokinjoe,
how did you get your 90, did you ream it yourself ?
and, how does shooting 70's in the 90 chamber work out ?
 

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Scibaer, the .45-70 to .45-90 ream job is the easiest you'll ever do. Since it's only lengthening the chamber by about .3, you can hand-turn it using a tap/die stock and it only takes about three turns.
I have 2 .45-90s, both based on the Buffalo Classic barrel; one is full length and I use it for target and BPCR shooting with the Paul Jones 535 Creedmore bullet. The other I shortened to 28" for hunting, and it's a real powerhouse.
You can shoot .45-70s in it if you want, however it will foul .3 " of your chamber and you must take extra care to get it clean. Also the extra "freebore" can sometimes goof up the accuracy.......sometimes, not always.

http://4-dproducts.com/displayitem.php?rowid=265&tname=rental
 

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'if' i ream to 90, then thats what i'd shoot. i just wondered "what if " ( i do that alot )
so, the ream job is something i can do myself then ? how much gunsmith skill wound i need ?
 

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i can and do often.
what keeps the reamer straight or uniform in the chamber ?
what controls its final depth, how is the cutting part polished up ?
do i need a chamber measurer of overalll length ?
ah.. instructions, i need step by step instructions for reaming for dummies, lol ..
yep, that'd do it..
 

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fanner50, check your PM, too.

By the way, just to further hijack the thread, I'm about half done with a 50 Sharps on the Handi Rifle action.
I'll post some pictures when she's done.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No problemo amigos. I learned something too. It does make since to stay with the 90 using smokeless powder. I could also just throat the 45-70 and call it good. The guys I will shoot with both have 45-70 Shilo's. I just like to be different. Now I need to figure out what to do about sights.
On the 50 Sharps did you re-bore a 32" BC and chamber or custom barrel?
 

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One advantage of using a throating reamer is you end up with a tapered leade into the rifling instead of the abrupt end of the rifling H&Rs come with. ;)

Tim
 
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