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Does this take .318 bullets? Whats the designation for the .323 bore. Thanks, Byron
 

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pastorp said:
Does this take .318 bullets? Whats the designation for the .323 bore. Thanks, Byron
JR= .318" JRS= .323"

I use to use a "draw die" in my loading press to draw down "S" bullets to .318" for a friend who had a vierling in 8x57JR. It worked pretty good for him, but he didn't shoot much either...

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I copied my other post for the 8 X 57 JRS. I do believe that someone sells .318 bullets? If you could tap into NORMA or RWS they would. In the US try some of the minor bullet makers

"8; is the nominal diameter of the bullet in milimetres.

57; Is the length of the case in mm.

"j"; or actually "i" for "Infantry". Indicates the case is related to the case for the issue army rifle.

R; is for "RAND" or more commonly translated as rim. The only difference in case shape is the rim. You can reload with regular 8 x 57 dies. Usually a belted magnum shell holder will work.

S; indicates that the rifling is the deeper form required by the "S" or spitzer bullet. The normal bullet diameter for the "S bore" is .323 rather than the earlier bore of .318 diameter. When evaluating German 8 mm cartridges the presence or absence of the "S" in the description is VERY important. There are many older Drillings in 8 x 57JR in circulation. Usually they are in well used shape. Don't shy away if you find a good one as .318 bullets are available, and ordinary loading dies still work. The only caution is to stay with low pressures for older guns."
 

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I do believe that someone sells .318 bullets?
I'm sure someone does make .318" bullets, but personally i'd want my gun to more than go bang! In this type of gun i'd want the best bullet available, and use it on everything i'd ever hunt, both big and small, as you can't just "ajust the sights" every time you change bullets.

For me, that means the 200 grain Nosler partition, and they only come in .323". It's the only bullet i use in my 8x57, and it's worked perfectly on everything from coyotes and havolina on up to deer, moose and bear, even when approaching 300 yards... They always give me "some" expansion even in light animials like a coyote. I also "always" get excelent penetration even when hitting heavy bone, and that's all i can ask for out of any bullet..

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And you'd stick to your guns even if you could score some RWS H-mantels?

That "draw die" sounds like good idea, if you could do it yourself or had a handy friend or neighbor to make one. Is it any more complicated that a variation on a cast bullet sizing die? It would have to be well finished and would need some Imperial Die Wax, likely?
 

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Sir said:
And you'd stick to your guns even if you could score some RWS H-mantels?
That "draw die" sounds like good idea, if you could do it yourself or had a handy friend or neighbor to make one. Is it any more complicated that a variation on a cast bullet sizing die? It would have to be well finished and would need some Imperial Die Wax, likely?
I used some H mantles a LONG time ago, but i'd rather have NP's anyday...

The draw die needs to be better than a lead bullet lube die, and you can get the "proper" draw die and punch from one of the Corbin brothers. They make bullet swage dies ect... Google them...

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Sir said:
I copied my other post for the 8 X 57 JRS. I do believe that someone sells .318 bullets? If you could tap into NORMA or RWS they would. In the US try some of the minor bullet makers

"8; is the nominal diameter of the bullet in milimetres.

57; Is the length of the case in mm.

"j"; or actually "i" for "Infantry". Indicates the case is related to the case for the issue army rifle.

R; is for "rad" or more commonly translated as rim. The only difference in case shape is the rim. You can reload with regular 8 x 57 dies. Usually a belted magnum shell holder will work.

S; indicates that the rifling is the deeper form required by the "S" or spitzer bullet. The normal bullet diameter for the "S bore" is .323 rather than the earlier bore of .318 diameter. When evaluating German 8 mm cartridges the presence or absence of the "S" in the description is VERY important. There are many older Drillings in 8 x 57JR in circulation. Usually they are in well used shape. Don't shy away if you find a good one as .318 bullets are available, and ordinary loading dies still work. The only caution is to stay with low pressures for older guns."
I don't want to be nitpicking, BUT....LOL

The "R" is for "RAND" = Rim.... a "RAD" is a wheel or the short form for a bicycle.

Happy New Year

Wolf
 

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I have a prewar German drilling in 8x57JR and 16 GA. I bought 20 years ago. I ordered a bullet swaging die from Corbin at that time to swage .323 bullets down to .318. I used both Speer and Nosler partition bullets and got excellent accuracy. Killed a 6 point buck in SW Oklahoma with it the second year I owned it. I'm working overseas right now so I don't have access to my loading notes. I believe I was using 4350 or 4831 powder. I was using factory equivalent 8x57 data. Pretty mild, but I don't think it's smart to hot rod prewar drillings.
 

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Brazos_Jack said:
I have a prewar German drilling in 8x57JR and 16 GA. I bought 20 years ago. I ordered a bullet swaging die from Corbin at that time to swage .323 bullets down to .318. I used both Speer and Nosler partition bullets and got excellent accuracy. Killed a 6 point buck in SW Oklahoma with it the second year I owned it. I'm working overseas right now so I don't have access to my loading notes. I believe I was using 4350 or 4831 powder. I was using factory equivalent 8x57 data. Pretty mild, but I don't think it's smart to hot rod prewar drillings.
Seeing as how "northwolf" isn't nitpicking, i'm not either.... But, when it comes to bullets, you "draw" a bullet down, and "swage" a bullet up... So, if you want to make .318" bullets out of .323" bullets, you need a "draw" die...

I have a few draw dies, and they work pretty good, as long as you aren't trying to go down too far...

I agree, drillings and break open guns should "Not" be hot roded... That is, if you want them to last...

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