99 savage, make it shoot?

John Y Cannuck said:

Recently purchased a 99. It sprays a group in a horizontal pattern.
I started checking screws. The stock bolt was little better than finger tight. Haven't been back to the range yet.

The cross bolt in the reciever. The one that has the split nut on the opposite side. Should this be tight? I started to tighten it, but long before it was close to tight, the screw was sticking out the far side through the nut.

Trigger pull really sucks. While I had the stock off, I cleaned up the mating surfaces, and that lightenned it a bit, but it has about a mile of creep.

How to fix? Any ideas?

It's a 99 Savage Series A. (The ones with the light coloured stock, and impressed checkering). Saftey is on the lever.

Click to expand...

John,
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=Savage


savageT

Have you done any trigger work before? If not be very cautious... The creep is your trigger is sear engagement. This is the amount of surface that engages between trigger and hammer. Removal is simple, there are two basic methods. Remove metal from the engagement surfaces or install a limit on how deep the engagement is allowed to be.. The first is irrevocable the second is not... use the second. Install a block to limit the amount of engagement the sears have andgradually deepen this until the rifle is safe....cannot jar off.. If you truly want to persue this I'll look back thru my notes but one admonition-- if you alter the trigger it is your responsibility-- forever. Not trying to scare you aff but you have to know the reallity of the situation.. good luck from the gunnut69

ps- a link to an exploded drawing - http://www.okiegunsmithshop.com/savage_99.jpg
I believe the screw you refer to is the sear screw-

I took the stock off today, and I see what you mean. I cleaned the mating surfaces with an ignition file. No real serious metal removed. This has lightened the pull a bit.
How would you go about installing an adjustable limit? This seems like a very good idea.
I saw right away, how it could be done by shortenning the mating surfaces, but like you said, irreversible, and I don't need a slam fire. I tried putting a shim under the trigger spring, but the effect was neglidgable.

Sorry for not getting back sooner but I have been a bit busy... The 99's sear surface is actually forward of the trigger and all but hidden by the lower tang.. The sear surface that is most visible is actually the rear of the striker(read hammer) and the connector. Once again sorry for the delay and be certain we're on the same page before we procede.. Do you have a parts diagram?? That will point out the parts I speak of and the alteration will be obvious. Good luck from the gunnut69