Nope PJ it is not asking too much to expect much better results and for sure TC would agree with that.
Having said that however I have to wonder if the barrel is really at fault here. The reason I say this is it is really hard for a barrel to be that inaccurate on it's own. Such inaccuracy is usually the result of something like defective scope, loose base or rings, bad crown maybe or a bedding problem.
Before I wasted anymore time on load development I'd begin ruling out those things one at a time. If it were me I think I'd start by analyzing the groups. Do you get two together and one spaced widely? If so, look to bedding that fore end or getting either even pressure on both sides or free floating it. If groups are just all over the place I'd skip the fore end and move to the scope/base/rings.
Since nothing will shoot if the base isn't really tight I'd begin there. What kinda base is it? On a 6.5 TCU VVCG barrel I had it shot about like that when using a Weaver 92A base because the barrel was tapered and the base was unsupported out front. A VVCG steel base fixed that. If there is any part of the front of the base unsupported it must be made of steel for sure and better yet also have epoxy under it. Be careful with that as it is almost a permanent thing once you use epoxy. Made sure each and every screw tightens fully and doesn't bottom out. Do this by using only one screw at a time in the hole you plan to use it in. Put it in and tighten. Try to move the base. Movement means it bottomed and didn't tighten. Do each in turn one at a time and then use them in the same holes you tried them in. Before you can make anything else work that base has to be TIGHT. Any movement will ruin accuracy just as it seems to be ruined in your barrel.
Next put the rings on and tighten then without the scope. Now try to move the rings. Will they move? If so, not good. That means they aren't really tight and can be moving under that much recoil. Yeah been there done that one too and yes it will cause exactly what you are experiencing. If those rings are now locked in tight and don't move then it is time to begin checking out the scope.
Unless you are using Burris Signature rings lap them. Yes it really does matter. Now insert the scope and tighten it down in place. Use the same scope you have been using.
Now use a known good load. Usually a good factory load is best but any reload that gave good consistent low standard deviations is OK. Make sure your technique is sound. I know you can do that because of the groups from the 7-30. Now what did those groups look like? Good, bad or indifferent? Try two or maybe three loads and use only three shot groups. If all are still bad it is time to change scopes to one you KNOW beyond all shadow of a doubt is working right.
Now shoot it again with the known good scope mounted using same loads. Any better? If not time to begin looking elsewhere. First check the crown. If it is that bad you should be able to see something obvious. Of course I'd have already looked for that long ago and likely ruled it out.
If at this point the groups are still like you've been seeing I'd try shooting with a partner. Have the partner load it behind your back and had it to you. Have him put in a shell some times and not some times. You must rule out flinching. This is a quantum leap in recoil from that 7-30 and flinching will also do exactly what is happening. Now have your shooting partner shoot it also. Is it still shooting bad for both of you and have you ruled out flinching?
Then pack that sucker up and return it to TC explaining what you've done to rule out everything but a bad barrel. When you get the new barrel from TC enjoy.