I asked a similar question a couple days ago on another post about the comparison of the Armor Alloy to the regular Contender frame,since I found that my frame is alloy.No replies as of yet.Kinda makes a fellow wonder ,or is no news good news?
I think you will find that the armour alloy barrels will not fit on the blued or stainless frames. The armour alloy was never popular and sort of turned into the bastad child of T/C.
I remember once hearing that you could grind the armour barrels down to make them fit, but don't know if this is true or not.
howdy moose, fellow kentuckian :wink: armor alloy is a hard coating or plating applied for corrosion resistance. barrels and frames that are AA can not be interchanged with blue and stainless. UNLESS you send either the barrel or frame to TC for a refit. OR, i have heard of people modifying the AA barrel themselves to make it fit a blue or stainless frame. TC can modify either, or frame or barrel to fit. blue or stainless can be interchanged with each other. just not the AA unless modified. :shock: :? make sense?
The link they gave you to Fox Ridge spells it out pretty well. Once converted you can use any blue or stainless or MODIFIED AA barrel. The AA coating they put on the frame and barrel reduced the size of the pivot pin, so the conversion takes this coating off. Guys have done it "shade-tree" style. Search on armor alloy on this site and you'll see a couple long strings about it.
I have converted a few for myself and friends. The process is simple. I used a 200 grit wet or dry sand paper on the end of a wooden dowel. I sliced the dowel down the middle of it's length and placed a piece of paper through the slice and wound it counter colckwise. The centrifugal force of the dowel being spun in a drill press, makes the paper have the ideal amount of force to slowly take the satin nickel plating out of the pivot hole. The frames can be done this way but care must be taked due to the smaller amount of steel being worked with. The barrels don't match my stainless barrels but at one point, they were pretty cheap due to being the oddballs.
ALL YOU REALLY HAVE TO DO TO DO THE JOB RIGHT IS GO BUY A STRIGHT 3/8 REAMER AT A TOOL SUPPLY HOUSE AND REAM THE ACTION AND THE BBL. THEN THE STANDARD BBLS WILL FIT THE AA FRAME, AND THE AA BBL WILL FIT SS AND BLUE FRAMES. THE ONLY OTHER THING YOU HAVE TO DO IS GET SOME STANDARD BLUE OR SS PINS FROM TC BECAUSE THE AA PIN WILL BE TOO SMALL FOR THE NEW REAMED HOLE. THIS WILL MAKE EVERYTHING STANDARD FOR THE SS AND BLUED SET UP. ALSO NOW THE FRAME AND THE BBLS WILL NOT FIT OTHER AA FRAMES OR AA BBLS WITHOUT REAMING THEM. ALL THE REAMER DOES IS TAKE OUT THE PLATING AND MAKES IT THE STANDARD HOLE. HOPE THIS HELPS RONNY
Using the method described by Ronny, it took me about 10-15 min to modify my AA barrel to fit my ss and blued frames. My biggest problem was finding the chucking reamer. Ended up going to a machine suppyly house 60 miles away. Some claim the AA barrels are more resistant rust/corrosion, both w/ the elements as well as w/ the effects of shooting. You might be able to pick up an AA barrel cheaper because the need for modification might make it less "valuable." I've been pleased w/ the accuracy of my AA barrel. I won't hesitate to buy another AA barrel if the price is good. :grin: Gary T.
I have Contender frames in both Armour Alloy and Blue. The AA hinge pin was 0.3722" and I found that my blue hinge pin (0.3739") would fit my AA frame, so with careful use of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper I opened up both my AA barrels to accept the blue pin. I replaced the blue pin on the blue frame with a stainless pin of 0.3744". The SS pin does not fit the AA barrels or frame.
So I now have two frames, that I can interchange barrels on and snug fitting pins to boot.
I love the AA finish, it has a lubricity to it not found on stainless frames and barrels clean up easily after a shooting session, even with lead bullets.
I bought my second barrel cheap from Ed's but on ebay the AA barrels seem to go for a premium.
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