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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Most guns and plans have the rounded shoulder at the breech as seen above, but Napoleons will be sometimes be seen with the sharper shoulder, as shown in the lower portion of this illustration. Depended on the foundry I suppose.

I need to dig into this more . . .
View attachment 251537

PS: My Napoleon has the sharp shoulder.
Theres 4 tubes on blocks at the Civil War Memorial in Natick town square. I will check them out this weekend for round or sharp shoulders. As l recall one gun was from each of the 4 MA foundries that had Govenment contracts; Alger, Ames, Hooper and Revere Copper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Which plans are you using? The Green plans are adaptable. The AOP plans are original dimensions, and should scale. Don't for get there is spacer (rondelle?) between the cheeks and trainer. The trunnion should not protrude beyond the outside of the cheek.
I'm using the Green plans. The barrel l have was made a little "fatter" for safety. The full size tube was about 6.5 times the breech width. Mine is 5.7 times the breech width. I will definitely need some spacers from the hardware store!
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
If you are following the drawings, those cheeks will need five holes drilled vertically through them. Four are straight holes and one is at a pretty good slant.
What size bolts are you going to use in those holes?
A .5" cheek doesn't give you much room to drill vertically.
Zulu



Beautiful work! - Interesting you shape the cheeks and cut the trunnion wells last. As I dont have access to a milling machine and only a benchtop drill press, Im thinking to drill the 1 inch trunnion well holes at the same time as the 3 side holes, while the rough cheeks are still square, then shape after.
 

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Theres 4 tubes on blocks at the Civil War Memorial in Natick town square. I will check them out this weekend for round or sharp shoulders. As l recall one gun was from each of the 4 MA foundries that had Govenment contracts; Alger, Ames, Hooper and Revere Copper.
if youcan take some pictures and post, be interesting to see four tubes from four different foundries all together.
 
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Scale plans for a 13 inch barrel call for 0.5 inch wide cheeks. As the trunions on the barrel are 1 inch thick by 1 inch wide; lm thinking to go 3/4 inch wide cheeks just for the added strength...ideas???
I have 3/4" cheeks on my 1/4 scale Napoleon (18¼" barrel). They look good but sometimes I wish they were just a little thicker. 3/4" is a wise choice for your carriage.

PS: I did as you described, drilled round holes to fit the trunnion (and brass strap underneath) first, then cut away the top of the cheek to finished size.
 

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Thanks for that picture. That is a good technique for getting the trunnion holes cut.

Bronze paint looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Thanks for that picture. That is a good technique for getting the trunnion holes cut.

Bronze paint looks great.
Thanks for that picture. That is a good technique for getting the trunnion holes cut.

Bronze paint looks great.
Thanks - my 81 year old father is good with spray paint. I should post pics in the fishing forums of his hand carved and painted wooden fishing plugs. The bluefish and striped bass love them.
 

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... barrel painted bronze, cheeks roughed out.

What specifically is that paint?
 

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You know the item number?
 

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Thanks.
 

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Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
252201
Barrel and rough cheeks fitted to trail. Without access to a bandsaw, to cut cheeks to shape lm thinking either skill saw or maybe hand cut with coping saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Are you making it out of pine? It looks like pine.
Making it out of pine takes the exact amount of work as making it out of oak.
Zulu
Making it out of the wood that was around Dads workbench. Cheeks are 1 inch thick so pretty solid.
 

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The cheeks look like plywood. That should strong enough. With trunnion plates and squares you will get added strength. With every thing bolted down with bolts and not screws it should be ok. When you get the cheeks profiled they will look good. Make sure you use a good sanding primer/sealer on the ply wood to fill the pores. Without primer, painted ply wood looks like, well, painted ply wood.

Looking good for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
The cheeks look like plywood. That should strong enough. With trunnion plates and squares you will get added strength. With every thing bolted down with bolts and not screws it should be ok. When you get the cheeks profiled they will look good. Make sure you use a good sanding primer/sealer on the ply wood to fill the pores. Without primer, painted ply wood looks like, well, painted ply wood.

Looking good for sure.
Cheeks are not plywood. Both cut from the same 1 inch thick board. I need to cut the axle slot. Will do on a friends table saw. Steel trunion caps will be bent to shape and through bolted through the axle.
 
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