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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My long awaited 6mm TCU from BB showed up today with the target forend and hanger system. With only one screw attaching the forend to the hanger it appears the forend can float and contact the bbl. Do you need to bed this forend to the hanger bar? Why didn't they just use two attachment screws to be sure it doesn't move and contact the bbl?
Thanks for the help-Ron
 

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Bedding needed for a Bullberry forend and h

If you talk to Fred at Bullberry he will tell you that the only contact you want with a hanger bar to wood is the bottom of the bar to the bottom of the slot in the wood. I have several and have made a couple foreends. The single screw has worked well and I never had problems. He will also tell you to make sure the the foreend doesn't touch the frame where it pivots and to check everytime you assemble it for clearance.
 

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Bedding needed for a Bullberry forend and h

If it does touch, try putting a piece of electricians tape or similar in the groove of the forend and then putting it back on. This minor adjustment will usually remove any wood contact with the barrel.

Steve :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bedding needed for a Bullberry forend and h

Thanks for the replies, when I got home I installed it on my frame and I can tighten the screw down tight enough while keeping the forend straight that it won't move and make contact with the bbl. Thanks-Ron
 

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Bullberry Hanger

Hello Crashnronda,

I shoot with a buddy that has the one screw Bullberry forend. Gerry is a very good friend and we have shot two days a week for the past 4 years. I'm telling this to let you know that I have watched and experienced Gerry's sucess and failures with the Bullberry system.

When he first got the barrel and forend, the gun would drive tacks and shoot a 6 to 8" group on a Silhouette Ram at 547 yards. He also, had a Harris bi-pod on the stock. The stock was all the way out to just one inch from the end of the barre.

On the beginning of the first shooting day and after about 20 shots, the accuracy went to **** in a big way. We couldn't hit the barn if we were inside. The forearm screw came loose and was rattling around. After tightening the screw, it went back to great accuracy. However, the screw kept coming loose and it was necessary to tighten it up every 10 shots of so.

Gerry shot a 35, 37 and 38 in the 40 round rifle silhouette match with his 15" Bullberry. (we set the rams back on the rail so they will go over with a heavy bullet).

After 3 matches, the accuracy went away and has not returned to date and that was a year ago. I shoot with 5 guys regularly and I lost my accuracy in my Van Horn heavy barrel. I realized that my barrel had been touching the fore arm to the point of wearing the bead blasted barrel to a shiny area. I free floated the barrel and it is back to having great accuracy.

My buddy, Gerry, still contends that Bullberry (Fred Smith) says the hanger does not need bedding. Well, if it was my gun, I would bed the hanger bar in the fore arm slot.

I have another buddy that has a Pachmeyer hanger bar and he made his own fore arm with a slot to fit it. He has to use brass shimming material to keep the forearm from moving and touching the barrel.

We have been through this free floating with 5 of us in the past few months. The only one that is still having problems is the Bullberry barrel.

I don't like one screw holding the thing together. I've never experienced any problem with the forearm touching the frame, but there might be something to that too. I used to think the forearm didn't matter either.

If I had a hanger bar, I would have the barrel maker make it for ttwo screws. If the barrel maker won't do it, I would be dealing with Van Horn in Arizona. I know Fred Smith of Bullberry has his fixed ideas and he has refused to make a barrel for two friends of mine and they went elsewhere.

Well, that is my two bits worth.

Harold Clark
 
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