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... I wonder if he still has them ...

Yes, the .dwg files, at least. Take a look at this link. I will fix the corresponding thread here if it is still here.

The SAMCC Club gun plans thread is still here and was previously updated to the current locations of all the drawing images, and now links have been added to the few line drawings that were not displaying before. You will have to click the links as this site does not display images from non-https: sites.
 

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I don't know what a brass barrel would cost-metal prices are sky high right now.

As drawn, the barrel diameter over the chamber is 1.825" O.D. with a .516" bore. Keeping the bore/breech diameter ratio at our usual 1:3, the breech diameter would have to be 3" for a 1" bore, which would require an overall diameter of 3.26". 3.375" 360 alloy brass (464 would be better but they don't go big enough) round bar from Online Metals (not the cheapest place by far) is $437.12 per foot, it appears, and you would need 16.33" ($650 if they sell partial feet.) And then add manufacturing cost.

McMaster-Carr (also not the cheapest source) has 464 alloy brass but only 2" at $426.28 for 3 feet. Scaling up a proportional cost for 3.375" would be 2.85x or $1213.90. Again, for 16.33", $600 depending on the exact cost of the shorter piece and if you could find it in 3.375" diameter.

It would be pretty but pricy. Now a bronze plated steel barrel would be just as pretty but a whole lot less expensive, I would think. And stronger.
 

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There is a option for brass plated steel , that may not be well known . It is a old blacksmith trick with heat and wire brush. I have been playing with it a little while and am impressed. I plated a test breach plug to see just how well it would work . Was able to add .001 inch dia with 2 treatments. Looks very durable and relatively simple to do . All that is needed is a torch and drill and a round brass brush kit , I got mine from Amazon.
 

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Gives me idea's Moose.

Here is the SAMCC barrel with the muzzle profile of a 32PDR.

254252


Since the bore is .516 simply doubling that gives us a bore of 1.032, which is what Michael Brooks makes his bores. That also allows for proper windage with the moulds we have. We could double all the measurements in the drawing and make a barrel that is upscale from the SAMCC. We would need a piece of metal 4 inches x 22 inches. I like to use Speedy Metals and they want $1401.84 plus shipping for brass which incurs extra fees for being over 70 pounds.(84.87 lbs). A 4" x 22" piece of 1018 would be $355.96. Again an over weight piece.

Going George's way in Steel scaling from the the major diameter and plating like Moose suggests, would be cheaper. Speedy metals wants $148.35 for an 18 inch x 3-3/8" piece of 1018, plus shipping. They onloffer 3-1/4 brass at $594.37 plus shipping

Lucky me, there is a Metal Supermarket in OKC. Save shipping. You have to request a quote to get prices from there website, or call them. Calling also helps so you know if they have the piece you need in stock.
 

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Gives me idea's Moose.

Here is the SAMCC barrel with the muzzle profile of a 32PDR.

View attachment 254252

Since the bore is .516 simply doubling that gives us a bore of 1.032, which is what Michael Brooks makes his bores. That also allows for proper windage with the moulds we have. We could double all the measurements in the drawing and make a barrel that is upscale from the SAMCC. We would need a piece of metal 4 inches x 22 inches. I like to use Speedy Metals and they want $1401.84 plus shipping for brass which incurs extra fees for being over 70 pounds.(84.87 lbs). A 4" x 22" piece of 1018 would be $355.96. Again an over weight piece.

Going George's way in Steel scaling from the the major diameter and plating like Moose suggests, would be cheaper. Speedy metals wants $148.35 for an 18 inch x 3-3/8" piece of 1018, plus shipping. They onloffer 3-1/4 brass at $594.37 plus shipping

Lucky me, there is a Metal Supermarket in OKC. Save shipping. You have to request a quote to get prices from there website, or call them. Calling also helps so you know if they have the piece you need in stock.

You also have to consider trunnions.
Zulu
 

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Plan collection:

SAMCC barrel: SAMCCGun.GIF (this barrel is muzzle heavy with the trunnions in the position shown in the drawing; they probably should be moved toward the muzzle a little; test the balance after turning and drilling and before locating them.)

SAMCC barrel w/32 pounder muzzle: SAMCCGun32Muzz.gif

Trucks (wheels) and front axle: SAMCCTruck.gif

Cheek: SAMCCTruckCheek.gif

Elevation screw and transom: SAMCCParts.gif

Rear axle: SAMCCTruckRearAxle.gif

Cap square and front axle brace: SAMCCTruckBrace.gif

It has been brought to my attention that there are no dimensions given for the trunnions on the barrel drawings so I went back to the .dwg files and measured and here they are:

Trunnion diameter = .625"

Distance between ends of trunnions = 3.235"


Another discrepancy has been found in that the groove in the cheeks for the trunnion is shown too small. I will leave that to the builder to correct now that it has been pointed out.

EDIT: The drawings show the axles notched to fit cheek pieces. This leaves a very thin piece of wood on the end of the axle that will chip out. It is suggested that the cheek piece be notched for axles instead, for greater strength. D

I still have all the .dwg files for these drawings so if you would prefer to have the "real" drawings instead of the gifs I have posted for the forum, send me a PM with your email address and I will forward them.
Trunnions in the original post.
 

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One of the advantages of steel, in addition to strength and lower cost, is you can weld the trunnions to the barrel (I suppose you could braze them to a brass barrel but I don't like getting brass really hot.)

If you are using the black background theme (Dark Mode), you should download the attachment in post 24 to see it in proper colors. It is rendered in black and red only for me but displays properly when downloaded. Or you could switch to Light Mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Gentlemen,

It's refreshing to see CAD drawings. I sense a few engineers in the room. Though not my traditional training, I spend a great deal of time drafting and engineering. This is useful.

Can anyone tell me about South Bend Replicas? I left a message with Jim Olson the other day inquiring about the size cannon I am pursuing. I have not heard back, but I am aware he runs a large operation. Again, I have settled on bit larger cannon. 1-2" bore. If I really go crazy, a hand built field carriage is in the works, otherwise a naval carriage as previously discussed per my time constraints.

I look forward you your responses!
 

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As far as shock and awe goes the 2 inch will leave the 1 inch in the dust, if that is what you are trending towards.
 

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Before you get to carried a way with bigger is better and settle on a size, figure out what you are going to use for a projectile. Also under stand these larger guns a real a lot of work and bring out some logistical challenges. You may need a crew to shoot the, how do you transport them, when do you shoot them, where do you store them.


Think about all these things and make your decision. Look around an see if you can find other shooting the larger guns, go watch them help out. Learn. If after that you still want a big fu, then by all means go for it
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Per my original few posts, I have half of a century of shooting range lead accessible to melt down. I was planning on reaching out to Jeff Tanner at ballmoulds.com and getting a mold with appropriate windage for my bore. I was going to forge/ fabricate the mold tongs. As for storage, I have plenty of space in my house and shop assuming the tube is 25-35 or so inches and on a carriage approximately the size of a big lawnmower. As for transport, I can lift, load, transport ~125 to 150 lbs solo.

As per my earlier posts; I shoot on a 300+ yard private range. Cannons are welcome and there are 1" steel plates specifically for cannon. I am interested in shooting long range and developing loads for accuracy and to explore ballistics. I have little interest in making noise. I have thought about rifled tubes as well and designing projectiles.

In summary, I am not looking for something that would be on a concrete pad outside of the local VFW, but I am also not looking for a 40lbs tabletop bore cannon.

Again, does anyone have experience with South Bend?

I hope that clears things up a bit DoubleD and I appreciate everyone's interest and comments. I still plan to call (DD)
when things settle down a bit for my off-season.

You guys are wonderful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
To clarify further.
1" seems to small to me. 2" seems way to big for me. I am looking for a 1.5" to golf ball size bore.

Cheers!
 

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What you are describing sure matches a breach loading 40mm. They are known for amazing accuracy with the right powder - bullet combination and they are still small enough for one guy to handle. The bore is 1.57 inch and can handle a 2 lb lead bullet with no problem. If you want to explore what a new cannon is capable of , a 40mm would keep you engaged for a long time.
 

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You do not sound like the average "Joe Smucketelly" that comes here with a big ideas and no knowledge. So go for it.

Listen to Moose, he is our 40mm guy.

Jeff Tanner moulds can make you a very nice round ball mould in brass or aluminum. I have had several of his moulds and they cast beautifully. Lately I have used LEM Moulds for cannon balls. I finally have someone who will make a me a mould big enough out of Iron so I can use the mould to cast in zinc. Tanner would not make and iron mould for me. Contact Glenn at [email protected] He is a recently retired tool and die maker who took over his late fathers mould making business, Glen can make you a standard round ball mould to your dimensions. He can also make you a projectile mould from your drawings. Glenn like Tanner only makes mould to dimensions you provide. You have to compensate for metal shrinkage rates and such.

I have a South Bend Cannon. It is top quality. The barrel is lined. I have never shot it. They have a very Good reputation. Over the past almost 20 years of this board we have had a few South Bend guns posted. Never a complaint.

You might also take a look this thread. I've never done this before... 1849 First Model... This is a skilled new guy build-Trey. This barrel is made by Hern Iron Works. Bore is 2 1/4 inch. Trey has a round ball mould and Rotometals will cast zinc round balls for you.

Zinc vs lead. Generally speaking over about one inch bore lead is too heavy. Here is the round ball calculator. Spherical Shot Weight Calculator A 1.72 golf ball size solid iron cannon ball would weigh 10.8 ozs. The same ball would weigh 17.5 ozs in lead. The switch off in larger guns is to use zinc . A golf ball size zinc round ball would weigh 10.3 ozs, very close to iron. It would, produce less recoil than lea. Zinc is recoverable, and normally reusable as recovered and but not inexpensive. Lead balls produce heavier recoil, are recoverable, need re-cast after shooting and initially some what economical. Zinc can be home cast but is pretty labor intensive, lead is easier to home cast. As mentioned zinc normally does not need recast to reshoot, lead does. Casting these larger balls is a lot less productive than cast rifle or pistol bullets. Personally a choice here. I use the zinc for the larger guns. I have lodged all my large round ball moulds with Rotometal https://www.rotometals.com/zinc-can...MrYTW4RKY5a0CqlyWDRNaYfGOc2yJw20aAn4XEALw_wcB

Rotometal has been offering the Zinc cannon balls as cast. You cut off the gate-sprue and flash your self and save $2 a ball-currently $3.99 a ball un cleaned versus $5.99. cleaned. Ryan at Rotometals says labor is the biggest expense in producing these round balls.. Get a set of 10 balls and it will keep you shooting for a while.

We do like build and progress pictures here. Showing your build give use new ideas how to accomplish a process and encourages other to build. If you have doubts or questions about a process ask questions. We will be glad to respond. And, you will get more than one answer on how to do the same thing. From there you can work out which is best for you.

One thing however we are a bit impatient about--smoke and fire pictures, we love them. Post them up.
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