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I went out and shot my .308 survivor with great results (1/2in group) after following Handi basics.
I then put on my new .223 bull barrel and shoot with also great results. So I put my .308 barrel back on and shoot another group, but it was high and right, way off. So I am thinking "what the ****"
then I notice that I didn't tighten up forearm screw snug, (I am using O ring) I tighten it up and everything is back to normal.

My question: How touchy is that forearm tension pressure? Does it have to be exact to get same zero? Or is close OK.
I don't understand since instead of using a rubber washer I used a piece of clear plastic tubing that I cut off and is about 1/4 in thick and really free floats the barrel front and back from forearm screw.

I am afraid to change barrels now with shooting season almost here.
 

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It's critical enough that it has to be the same each time you install the screw, that's why I used a torque adjustable screwdriver to install the forend screw, info on that can be found in the FAQs too. ;) Changes in temp and humidity can also affect POI and accuracy, so it's important for consistency.

Tim
 

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Tim;
I thought about that, and figured that a torque adjustable tool might work, but
as you know the "Survivor" forend has a toggle or knob like screw, not a regular screw. I guess I could replace it with a regular screw. What do you think? What size screw is it?
****, I am so happy with how it shoots I am afraid to change anything. I know you are going to say to just buy another gun, (I think I know how you think now) But one of the main reasons I bought it was to be able to carry xtra barrel with me in the field or leave in the truck.
 

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The screw is a standard ¼"-20x½", the Survivor forend would need a bit longer screw I think, but they're available from your local hardware store, dunno what head style you'll need, I got rid of my Survivor stock, don't care for em at all, but that's a personal preference. ;)

Most folks just use feel or an index mark to set the screw, and that works for most of em, but in real cold weather, the plastic can change a lot which would affect accuracy big time unless you adjusted the screw setting for the conditions.

Tim
 

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quickdtoo said:
Most folks just use feel or an index mark to set the screw, and that works for most of em, but in real cold weather, the plastic can change a lot which would affect accuracy big time unless you adjusted the screw setting for the conditions.

Tim
Hey Tim,
I'm gonna have to call you on that one. That Survivor stock is glass filled nylon and is just about the most weather stable gunstock material on the planet! Much more resistant than any kind of wood stock and even most wood laminates!
I do agree that the screw thing is critical though. I don't really understand why the "O" ring" thingy works except that it in effect free floats the forend except, at the front of the reciever, I am not disputing that at all, it just seems to me that, especially with the Survivor forend which is WAY hollow, it might be prudent to glass bed or even pillar bed, or even steel epoxy the forend screw hole about an inch or so ahead of and behind the screw using cardboard dams, to keep the weight down (as apposed to the weight and expense of filling the whole forend) so you would have a repeatable fit which is difficult with an "O" ring given its "squooshyness?" and then use a set torque value against the bedding or use a witness mark. This would probably also mean a seperate forend for each barrel as well unluss they were exactly the same contour.
I think the problem with the Handi forends that the "O" ring solves is more of an inherent design flaw of the 2 piece stock that places an un- welcome stress on the barrel- than a matter of environmental variances.
I personally LOVE my Survivor stocks, but I can see room for improvement where accuracy and more importantly "repeatability" are concerned!
JMH2¢
DG
 

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Remove the forend and stick it in your freezer and see how much it shrinks when you try to reinstall it!! ;D

Tim
 
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