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cleanshot

2961 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  savageT
I have used the cleanshot in my .50 and use 90 to 100 gr. loose havnt used the pellets but have seen them but I heard they were not going to be around long because of a lawsuit with pyrodex and something about the plant they were being made in. Someone else my know more about it to help you, I liked the cleanshot less smoke. :D JIM
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Clean Shot Pellets

Bob K,
Did you say "CRUSH???????Are you intentionally crushing those clean shot pellets? I know that Pyrodex doesn't want their pellets to be crushed for fear of a hang-fire or poor ignition!


savageT
Clean Shot Pellets

Bob K,
Yes, I thought so! Would it not be easier and perhaps more economical to switch to powders? If you have a life's supply of pellets then say no more. I use a mark on my ramrod and find that on occasion, I have to use a fair amount of pressure to "load to the line". I am currently using Triple 7 with T/C's 245gr. HPT copper sabot. I find them difficult to load and really have to pound them down on occasion! I am planning on using a lubed patch between shots in the future.

savageT
Clean Shot Pellets

kenmc777777........
Check out the Hodgdon Powder site for information on Triple 7.
http://www.hodgdon.com/index.htm Up at the top of the home page are their product tabs. Just open the triple 7 tab and you'll find loading data on 2f and 3f powders. Incidentally, they will be coming out with Triple 7 pellets in March 2003 according to their sources. This stuff is really hot and you should use about 15% less triple 7 powder compared to other b/p or clean shot, pyrodex products. That is about 10 grains by volume less on average 50 cal. load. You also can use water clean up and don't need the standard black powder cleaning products. It is less caustic than b/p and substitutes, as there is no sulfur in the product.

savageT
Clean Shot Pellets

kenmc.....

With b/p or any substitutes it's wise to consider them all corrosive. You want to clean your barrel and nipple inside and out with hot, soapy water and very hot, tap rinse. You can use one of the b/p cleaning products and dry and lube your gun ASAP. I like to use Windex patches after soap and water, and follow up with Ballistol to displace any water and lubricate well. Store your muzzle facing down and if you're storing it away for months at a time, it's best to check it again after a few weeks with a dry patch (checking for rust) and re-lube with REM-OIL or a great old lube is Vasoline. Don't depend on products like Borebutter or Wonder lube to protect the bore over long periods of storage.
Just to finish up with a reminder........ Most oils and lubricants are petroleum based and you must remove all traces of them before reloading. Good Luck!

savageT
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Clean Shot Pellets

kenmc,

1) For petroleum based products, try using Ronson Lighter Fluid (naptha), Acetone, or rubbing Alcohol (in that order of preference). Just be careful with these solvents on the stock finish. Before loading up, just fire off a couple percussion caps to blow out any remaining oils, then you're set to go.

2) Yes, for short term, you can use borebutter or wonderlube (just use Crisco), but any gun oil is better!

Let me know if I can be of help in the future.

Happy Holidays to you and yours,



savageT
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