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Discussion Starter #1
Well,
Got my Redding dies in from Bullbery's for my 7-30 waters. I've never paid 100.00 for a set of dies before, so I was anxious to check them out.
Now, I don't know all the proper names for the parts of the dies, so bare with me.
It seems like the sizer/decapper die is off, quite a bit. As I turn the adjustment screw up and down, I can look inside the die and see the center part that holds the decapper, "wobble" as I screw it, almost like it's bent. Is this normal?
I sent an email to Redding, but it's probably gonna be a while before I get a response, any thoughts? Are these dies self-centering?

Thanks,
Travis
 

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It's pretty normal; depending on how much wobble there is. That wobble wil allow some slop for the decapping pin to still de-cap a case with a not quite centered flash hole. As you look into the bottom of the die and turn the adjustment screw if the movement is about 1/16 of an inch or less don't worry about it. If it's more than that or if you are having a tough time de-capping then it might be bent and Redding will send out a new one.
 

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I let the decapping unit (expander/decapper) loose as I size my 1st round. It does have to be screwed into the sizing die far enough to allow it to at least enter the case being sized. I have the case completely into the sizing die and then I turn the decapping/expanding rod down until I feel it again the primer. I then start to remove the case from the die and screw the decapping rod down a bit. Then, push the case back into the sizing die. I repeat these steps until the primer pops out. When the primer pops out, and the case is still fully into the sizing die, I then tighten the locking nut on the decapping rod. This helps keep it centered for subsequent cases.

One question: I wonder what are the advantages to a Redding $100 die? (Or is the Bullberry 7-30 cartridge a wildcat version of the original 7-30 Waters?) Nearly 25 years ago I purchased a Lyman 7-30 Waters die—almost before the Waters cartridge was “catching-on”. I paid, if I remember correctly, about a dozen dollars for it. It has reloaded thousands and thousands of rounds and will continue to reload that many or more. And, my favored reloads for this Contender will dang straight shoot M.O.A. out to 200 yards. Some do much better than M.O.A. at the 100 yard mark. Good-luck…BCB
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I'm hoping to get the maximum achievable accuracy from this cartridge, It's a 7-30 waters Ackley Improved. Bullberry mentioned they match the barrel dimensions to the Redding dies, so I figured I'd just get theirs. I belive the price was 80.00 plus freight. I don't mind paying extra for dies if I'm getting extra something else (ie. quality,reputation, service..)
The expander part of this die wobbles with the rest of it and I'm hoping it doesn't throw my brass off center as it's stized. I'd hate to have to rely on case indexing for consistency. Am I being paranoid? I'll be happy with MOA, but I'm shooting for touching 5 shot groups at 100 yards or rather one ragged hole or 1/2 - 5/8 groups. No special purpose other than bragging rights and a little more confidence in a 300 yard shot for antelope.
 

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Redding makes high quality dies, I own six sets and all are great without problems - wish I coud say as much for a few of my RCBS and Lyman dies! The decapping rod should not be tight - it should self-center on the case neck as the case is pulled out of the die. It only has to be alighned enough to hit the flash hole. I often leave my decapping rods a bit loose for this very reason, less chance of pulilng the neck off center as it is pulled over the expander.

My .25 Bullberry Redding dies purchased 15 years ago are superb, adn I've shot many dozens of 5-shot, 0.5 moa groups with ammo loaded with those dies. They are worth it IMO.
 

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The best way I have found to center the decapping pin and expander ball is to size the case, screw the decapping rod down until it expels the primer and then leave it loose for a minute. When you lift the handle of the press, at about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the stroke the expander ball will contact the inside of the neck. While holding pressure up on the handle, tighten the decapping unit lock screw.

Using this method will center the expander ball in the neck then lock it in place. Then the expander ball should not pull the neck out of alignment. If your dies are good (concentric neck to body) it should make for excellent cases.

Of course if you go with a floating carbide expander ball, that will eliminate most alignment problems.
Good luck
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks so much for everyone's input with this. At the same time I posted the first message, I also emailed REdding. They replied with " Forward your address to us and we'll send out another one". WOW, I was impressed and happy with the customer service. I'll just spend this weekend fireforming my cases without bullets and get ready for next weekend to reload.
Thanks again,
Travis
P.S. I didn't get drawn here in New Mexico for anything other than deer, guess I can start working on getting my 375 JDJ barrel and dies next! I may just buy and Elk Tag if given the opportunity.
 

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FYI

I write this only as information regarding the redding dies. I have been reloading since 1971 and in those days I never got a bad set of dies from any company. I reload for around 80 calibers and have as many redding dies as RCBS.

However about five years ago I could not get my new match 308 to shoot worth beans and another gunsmith advised me to chuck my new match Redding sizing die up in the lathe and check for true. Could not believe how far
it was drilled out of true. I went back to my old RCBS dies. I have a friend who was having the same problem with a 6 BR and Redding match dies. Same Problem. Redding was and still is a great company. I have learned that all companies like my own, hiring in today's work force suffer from time to time from employee error!

Be safe and check twice!
 
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