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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend has left 2 CVA black power rifle's with to see if I can remove the clean out breech plug screws.
He had cleaned both rifle's but never removed these screws and now both are frozen solid and to make thing worst he tried to removed then and now the head are in bad shape.
Before I have to drill them out has anyone had this problem and found a way to remove them with out drilling them out.
Thanks all
Bob
 

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Are these inlines or caplocks? CVA is a pain in the a$$ to remove the caplock plugs.
If they are inline, plug the nipple hole with clay or something to make it leak proof. If you can find real Wintergreen oil, pour it in and let it set for a week or so. If you cannot find real Wintergreen oil, use Marvel Mystery Oil. It has a lot of Wintergreen in it. Every day it sits, rap it hard in the breech area with the handle of a screwdriver. The vibes help the oil get in the threads.

After a week, clamp the barrel in a padded vice. Attach the plug wrench to the plug and tap in in place to make sure it is tight. Attach your handle and use a rubber mallet to give the handle hard, sharp blows. It should break loose.

If it doesn't, fill the barrel 3/4 with FFF and the rest with concrete and blow the damn thing out. Important safety note, I am just kidding about the FFF and concrete....I can't believe I have to give disclaimers now! :-D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
CVA ( clean out screws )

Hi Peter
One is a CVA Hawkens and the other is CVA Frontier rifle.
Both percussion cap jobs.
He had cleaned the breech plugs but not the clean out screws.
I think I asked the wrong question, instead of Breech plugs I should have said the " clean out screws".
Some times my hands go faster than my brain.
I think using the Wintergreen may work, my only problem is he did a job on the heads of those slotted screws.
I think I'll pass on the ffg, to much to clean up
 

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Glad it's the cleanout instead of the plug. CVA's caplocks have a plug that is just about impossible to reuse safely. They claim they are the only ones who can remove them but that's npt true. What they do is screw in the blank loaded with locktite. After it is in they drill both the barrel and plug for the drum. It's near impossible to realign them.

For the screws, try soaking them. Tapping them with the screwdriver is important. If you have a drill press, clamp the barrel in the vice. Chuck a screwdriver bit and lower it into the screw slot. Either turn the chuck by pulling on the belts or stick your chuck key in and use it as a handle. All the time keep good pressure on the screw. That should work. If not, go to sears and get one of their bunged screw removers and try the same setup using it.
Good luck!
 

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I had the same problem with one of mine. Left it soaking for a long time with the nipple hole filled so nothing could leak out. There wasn't much screw head left when I got done. I cleaned it up good, rechased the threads and got me a hex head bolt to put in there instead of the screw. Comes out easy now.

Steve :wink:
 

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The screw removers are basically left hand twist drills. The set is $20+. If theres a machine shop nearby they'l probably have a left hand twist drill bit about the right size.. They're a bunch cheaper but either should work... Also try freezing the assembly before the dissaembly. The cold will make the steel smaller in volume, enlarging the screw hole and making the screw itself smaller.. good luck
 
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