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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up my first Glock, a Gen 4 Model 22, .40 S&W.

I shoot a fair amount, mostly mid to long range rifle. I currently shoot and load for a 7mm WSM and a 6mmBR along with an AR, a muzzleloader and a Mossberg 500 beater. In the past I've loaded for a number of rifle cartridges from .20 Practical to 338-06.

The last handgun I owned was a Ruger Blackhawk in .357 a couple of years ago. It was a good gun and I liked loading for it but something just didn't click. Have shot other revolvers and have friends with 1911s but this is my first semi-auto handgun and again my first Glock.

Plan for the gun is to target shoot, informally at first until I get a little feel for the gun, the grip, trigger etc and get somewhat comfortable with it. In the meantime there is a range near me that does USPSA matches that I'd like to check out and maybe shoot in down the road.

New to Glocks but new to semis in general so no old ways to unlearn- best way to grip/sight/shoot a gen 4?

Is the model 22 a decent platform for practical style shooting? I understand it is not a tuned comp gun but I don't want to shoot myself in the foot out of the gates either.

I've only put one mag through the gun so far, some white box Win 165s. At about 15 yards standing they grouped in about 2" but that includes 3-4 flyers that were more likely me than anything, 10-12 rounds were right at an inch. Will keep shooting and trying ammo but that seems ok to me so far- what are some realistic accuracy expectations?

Very new to the .40 S&W, have been reading up on it and seems to be as controversial as any round with plenty of folks on both sides. Whether it is the "perfect" round for this or that it looks to be decent for target shooting and possible HD- anything I should look at specific to this round? Will be handloading eventually.

Cast bullets- sounds like Glock says no? Apparently there is some discussion on whether it is safe to use cast bullets in factory Glock barrels with their polygonal rifling. I need to do some more digging but it would seem the .40 with it's relatively moderate velocities would be well suited to cast bullets, is it worth looking into a LW or other barrel?

What else? What should I be looking at/watching for/asking about with this gun?
 

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Is the model 22 a decent platform for practical style shooting? I understand it is a tuned comp gun but I don't want to shoot myself in the foot out of the gates either.
I've never shot any of the fast action games for semiautos so can't really respond properly to your question is it a decent platform. Seems to me tho if I were gonna compete in such I'd want adjustable rear sight and Glock does offer those in each of the major calibers.

Not sure why you think your G22 is a tuned comp gun but the G22 is considered a duty gun and is one of the most common ones carried by LEO. Unless someone has done some custom work on it that's all it should be.

I have two of them as well as a G23 and a G27 so I guess you might say I kinda like the .40 S&W. Probably tho for the kinda games you are thinking of a 9mm would be a better choice I believe. Ammo is cheaper and recoil is lighter.

Free hand at 15 yards I'd say your groups were OK. These days that's better than I can shoot. Back in my competition days I could with some regularity shoot an inch free hand at 25 yards but those days are long, long since over. These days I do good to occasionally shoot a group that is double to triple that from sandbags. Age does that to ya.

Matt and me used to shoot our G19s on my back yard range at 25 yards on some chicken and hog targets I have and we were able to hit them with fair regularity. In those days I still shot pretty decent and hit the vast majority. Dunno if I'd do as well with my S&W 629 these days and it has an 8-3/8" barrel.

If you are just looking for some fun informal target shooting I'd say you made a good choice tho honestly a G17 would have been better as it is much cheaper to shoot than the G22 even if you reload for them.

Most everyone who has tried it says don't use lead in Glock barrels. I've just followed that advice and not tried it. I do have a bunch of plated bullets setting waiting to be loaded to try in them.

It was a good 50 years ago when I got my first handgun and I began shooting it in competition not long after that. I still have my first ever trophy I won in a match with that old S&W 19 6". That little loving cup has followed me around from house to house for prolly 48 or more years now. It's a little worse for wear but still on display. lots of others are as well but I have a couple big boxes more in the attic I'll likely never even look at again. Make darn sure you take care of that first one even if you get so many you don't have storage space for them.
 

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The Glock 22 is a proven platform, and should be fine for the uses you have in mind. A 9mm would be cheaper to shoot, with a little less recoil though. A note about the .40. It is already a high performance round from the factory, so don't try to hot rod it when you reload. There are no +P standards for this round.

Earlier Glock .40's had some problems with case failures - blown case webs. This was usually a result of not a lot of case head support on factory barrels, and the use of reloads. Sizing the slight "bulge" at the case head caused by the lack of support tended to work harden some brass; along with hot reloads.

The current generation Glock .40's have better case head support. Reload moderate loads, and you'll be fine.

Cast bullets? They say not to in the factory barrel, but I have with very good results in the 9mm. Flat base, hard cast bullets, sized .002 / .003 over bore diameter worked well. You want to simulate a jacked bullet as much as possible so as to reduce leading. A soft, undersized or bore diameter lead bullet will lead up a Glock barrel pretty quick, and raise pressures. I have not tried cast in a .40 Glock, however. Several manufacturers make aftermarket cut rifled barrels for about $100 if you don't want to deal with any possible hassles.

Larry
 

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My recommendation if you plan to compete with this gun, is print this out and bring it with you to the range when you shoot. I have it on my shooting binder in my pistol box all the time, and I've put a couple rounds downrange in pistol practice and competition.




Find the ammo it shoots best, buy lots of it, and practice slowly first. Slow is smooth, smooth is quick. Won't take long, and you'll feel like you can call your shots, even in a rapid fire course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies.

I edited the op to read that I understand this is NOT a tuned comp gun.

I'll get a few more types of ammo and put some more rounds through it to see what it prefers and keep working on my shooting.
 

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A G22 will do fine for your purposes. One in 9mm may have more fun to shoot over an extended period; but that's just me (I find the .40 a bit snappy).

The trick in learning to shoot the Glock well, is training on the trigger reset. Master the reset, and your accuracy will improve.

I personally don't shoot lead out of my Glock barrels. I use aftermarket LoneWolf barrels. The great news is, that with you G22, you can swap in 9mm or .357Sig barrels and shoot that. 9mm will need a 9mm mag; but .357Sig can use your existing .40 mags. Like having a three in one pistol.

There are some that have shot lead from a Glock barrel successfully; but everything has to be right. Right sized projectile, right lube, right hardness, right phase of the moon, etc. It's more than I care to deal with. I find that Rainier and Berry's plated projectiles work great for me. A Lone Wolf barrel will have a tighter chamber and I get very good accuracy out of mine. They have regular rifling. Pricing is very good. Other choices are KKM, Storm Lake, and Barsto (iirc).

Enjoy your Glock. If history is an example; it's not likely to be your last.
 

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I'll second the recommendation to pick up a Lone Wolf 9mm conversion barrel. I picked up a Gen 3 G22 last winter and started shooting in a local IDPA type league. I quickly realized 9mm was cheaper to shoot than .40 (even when reloading), so I picked up the conversion barrel and haven't regretted it a second.

The cool thing about 9mm if you reload is that most folks don't, so you end up with a growing brass supply. I just picked up a Lee TL 9mm bullet mold and am going to see how they shoot in the LW barrel.

I figure in one kit, I've got a .40 that works really well for social occasions, a 9mm that works well for competitive work, and a gun that I can feed with home cast bullets if necessary.
 

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jschance said:
I just picked up a Lee TL 9mm bullet mold and am going to see how they shoot in the LW barrel.
I get great boolits from my Lee 124gr TL 9mm Truncated Cone mold. I use Lee liquid Alox with them. The boolits shoot great out of my LW barrel. A light load of Bullseye, and you have a cheap to load round.
 

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jschance said:
I'll second the recommendation to pick up a Lone Wolf 9mm conversion barrel. I picked up a Gen 3 G22 last winter and started shooting in a local IDPA type league. I quickly realized 9mm was cheaper to shoot than .40 (even when reloading), so I picked up the conversion barrel and haven't regretted it a second.

The cool thing about 9mm if you reload is that most folks don't, so you end up with a growing brass supply. I just picked up a Lee TL 9mm bullet mold and am going to see how they shoot in the LW barrel.

I figure in one kit, I've got a .40 that works really well for social occasions, a 9mm that works well for competitive work, and a gun that I can feed with home cast bullets if necessary.

I have one in a 23 config.


It runs 100% and shoots well with a variety of hand loads and factory ammo. I am currently thinking of a extended for my G29...


CW
 

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I guess I like the .40 a bit myself. I have 5 Glocks in .40. I have conversion barrels for the 35/22/27. I frequently shoot in IDPA and USPSA production class. They fit well in those games. I don't suggest shooting lead in the Glock barrels, although I shoot it in mine. I have had good success with cast bullets in 140/155/170 from Missouri Bullet Co. Leading has not been a problem. The safe bet is to use an aftermarket barrel for lead, or use plated/jacketed bullets in the stock barrel. As far as powders go, there are lots of good pistol powders that will allow you to load major or minor power factor loads safely. RELIABLE load data is available from powder manufacturer's, both in print and on the web. Use your barrel to chamber check every round you load to insure reliable function. You'll need a strong side holster, it can be kydex or leather, and mag pouches for two magazines. Find you a local club that holds matches, jump in and have fun.
s45
 

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Ive shot many hundreds of lbs of lead through glocks and never had a problem. Look closer and youll see its handloads that glock doesn't approve of not cast bullets. I even bought a wolf barrel for my 23 and 20 but both of them shot cast better with there factory barrels and were more reliable with them to boot. Biggest detriment to competitive accuracy with a glock is the factory trigger. There just to heavy for precision shooting of any kind. First thing to do is find a competent gunsmith who can do your trigger.
 

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Argent11 said:
Glock ::) You can see light through the receiver and slide. A two by four sitting on a gun frame.
Glock, at least conture them a bit.
But then you couldn't call them blocks? ;D ;D ;D

Handle the 20,21,29,30 if you want to see blocky ! :eek: :eek: ;)

CW
 

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Me too, but I have larger hands.

Love my Glock 10MM's!

CW
 

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I look at it differently. Sure there not pretty put up against a nice custom single action or even a smith N frame or a 1911 but when something goes bump in the night and your familys safety is in question like Cinderella's coach go from a pumkin to a beautiful thing. None of the black guns are pretty. not a sig, H&k, m&p or a ruger. Any one of them with a high capacity mag is blocky. But there not made to be put in a glass case and admired. there made to go bang every time you pull the trigger. I kind of think of it like this. Sure its cool to go out with the homecoming queen whos a 10 when someone else is looking but for the long haul id rather have a 5, more dependable and lower maintenance. For 500 bucks I guy can buy a glock, stick it in the glove box of your truck without even oiling, take it out and drop it on the pavement pick it up and and know it will still go bang. Theres some beauty in that! You want some countering and slightly better looks (debatable) buy a sig. Youll pay 300 bucks more and it wont do anything that the glock wont do just as well.. IMO the only real competition they have are the M&P's
 

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look at a smith M&P you can see more light through the frame on one of them then on a glock. They run great too!!!! you need to keep in mind when buying one of these your buying a tool to protect yourself and your family not a precision made 3000 dollar 1911 that feels like its running on ball bearings. Bottom line though is the ugly old 500 dollar glock or smith will still run as good or better then that 3k custom 1911 will. Sure wont win bullseye matches like the 1911 will but it will surely shoot minute of man.
dudel said:
Argent11 said:
Glock ::) You can see light through the receiver and slide. A two by four sitting on a gun frame.
Glock, at least conture them a bit.
That's so that dirt, mud, sand etc has a way out. It's a feature.
 
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