A friend who makes furniture gave me a pill bottle sample of his Gorilla Glue to try. I used a single paint brush bristle to push the glue into a cracked Mauser stock while I flexed the crack open, then wiped a small bit over the whole crackline. After it dried (I was refinishing the stock anyway) I sanded it smooth and now can't hardly find where it was. Also used G-Glue to fit a small nut to the inside of a pistol grip panel for a set of mesquite grips I made for my RSB. The stuff seems stronger than any other epoxy I've used. Pricey, too, but worth it....
Gorilla Glue for Stock Repair?
Anyone here ever used Gorilla Glue to repair hairline cracks in rifle stocks. It's a polyurethane glue that is supposedly comparable to epoxies. It's about the only thing I've found to be viscous enough to work all the way into the crack before setting up. I had to hold open the crack with 2 toothpicks to get the stuff in there. Sure, I know some folks use compressed air to force epoxy into cracks, but with my compressor, a little oil residue would also make its way into the crack, causing a weaker bond than I'd like to have. Gorilla Glue expands to 3-4 times the surface application during the reaction/setup stage, which requires water or moisture for activation, allowing it to expand further into the crack to be bonded. According to their tech dept, in lab tests, it had a holding strength of 3200 psi when used on Birch wood. We will see how it holds up after some rifle recoil and jarring around. I've used Gorilla Glue around the house on broken chair legs, tabletops, and varoius other things, and it has yet to fail. If it works as other professional strength glues does, it will actually be stronger than the wood itself.
P.S. Just a tip for those interested. My stock is Walnut and needed some moisture in the hairline crack to activate the glue. I found that holding the stock(open crack with toothpicks) over boiling water on the stovetop will put the moisture needed right up in that little crack.
P.S. Just a tip for those interested. My stock is Walnut and needed some moisture in the hairline crack to activate the glue. I found that holding the stock(open crack with toothpicks) over boiling water on the stovetop will put the moisture needed right up in that little crack.
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All these Urethane/Polyurethane glues (aka: "one-part epoxies") seem to work really well, if you know their limitations...for one thing, when the stuff foams up and fills a wide crack, the bond strength ain't so great. It's best to get the closest fit you can, using whatever clamping device you can. Also, if you compare it to a real epoxy, like Acraglas, you'll find that they're slightly more flexible, which is not necessarily a bad thing.
Also, Wildman should seriously consider getting a filtering cartridge to put in his airline...they're cheap and easy to install, and save a lot of grief, especially when spraying water-based finishes. A separate line should be used, with an oiler in it, for tools which require oil in the air.
Also, Wildman should seriously consider getting a filtering cartridge to put in his airline...they're cheap and easy to install, and save a lot of grief, especially when spraying water-based finishes. A separate line should be used, with an oiler in it, for tools which require oil in the air.
I have used gorilla glue for other woodworking projects. But I have had good luck with a epoxy made by West Brothers. It is made for boat builders,They have a good tech support also. It as mixed is thin like maple syrup, You add fillers to make as thick as you want. I have used it on a bunch of old musket stocks and for all of my glassbedding.
...Jim...
...Jim...
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