hold zero when changing barrels?

Nope, not necessary to re-zero...I've shot 3 different barrels on the same frame, switching them out between 3 shot groups for each barrel to keep the barrels cool, for several hours at a range session. Never had a POI change. This was with .25-06, .243 and .223 on one frame. Just make sure you tighten the forend screw the same each time. Having a torque screw driver makes this easy, but using a witness mark on the screw will also work....consistency is the key. :wink:

Tim

thanks quickdtoo!

Hold Zero When Changing Barrels

Hello Quick

If you support a Handi under the hinge pin how does the torque on the fore-stock affect anything?? I'm confused!. Does this mean that I risk changes in POI/group size each time I remove the fore-stock?
Please clarify. Thanks

McL

Re: Hold Zero When Changing Barrels

McLernon said:

Hello Quick

If you support a Handi under the hinge pin how does the torque on the fore-stock affect anything?? I'm confused!. Does this mean that I risk changes in POI/group size each time I remove the fore-stock?
Please clarify. Thanks

McL

Click to expand...

Changing the screw torque will not only affect how the forend fits the frame, but it will also affect barrel harmonics which we know will affect POI. Screw torque is specilly important if an O-ring is installed on the forend stud. My latest experimenting by shimming between spacer and forend and tightening the screw tight has shown that accuracy has been more more consistent with less to no vertical stringing regardless of barrel heat.

Tim

"spacer"

Quick,
Not familiar with all the handi terms, I reckon. Is the "spacer", the do-hitchie that fits on to the back of the forend? In other words, this old man is not quite clear on just what your are putting where? Could you, maybe rephrase a little. After re-reading before posting, I'm guessing that you're shimming between the forend screw slot and the back of the forend. This is of particular interest to me because of a couple of alternative methods I've tried lately. Thanks.

s.

This only applies to the wood stocks. I remove the plastic spacer by removing the 2 wood screws, then I place a .004" thick shim cut to the shape of the plastic spacer, between the spacer and end of the wood forend, then reinstall the spacer. I've been using aluminum furnace tape, it's cheap and easy to work with and seems to be just the right thickness to tighten the forend to improve accuracy. I've only had to use 2 thicknesses once. When trimmed well, it doesn't show.

Hope this helps,

Tim

spacer shim

are you doing that in conjunction with an O ring or some kind of shim between the forend and the barrel to remove it from stock contact?
s.

Sometimes, just depends on how it shoots.....it's just like any of the Handi tricks, shoot it first as it comes out of the box after polishing the chamber and bore. The other tricks are applied as needed and one at a time to check for accuracy to see what works best. Usually a thick O-ring will perform best but not always, just depends. Sometimes a pressure point will work, too. If each indiviual trick doesn't help, start using combinations, sooner or later you're going to hit on a winning combination that shoots great.....then all ya gotta do is remember what to do to each barrel frame combo when you swap barrels!!!

Tim

gotcha drift

Thanks
s.

fore-end shim

Quick, when you use the shim between the forend and the spacer, doesn't that the break open stiffer? Does that get better with usage?

Yes it does, but that's the idea, to make the action a little stiffer. It still opens easily, but my experimenting with and without the shim with the same load shows that it helps most of the time. A .004" shim isn't a lot of change, but it seems to be enough that it makes a big difference.

Tim

shimming

Thanks, Tim. I will have to try that. This was a helpful thread for me. I had the same questions as jritter and just hadn't gotten around to asking.