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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that shooting it comes to mind, and I will get to that. I located a local gun shop that deals in old mil-surp guns, and made the mistake of walking in today. I walked out with a M-44 I believe Russian, but I have not checked all the markings as I do not know them by heart, with very good bluing, great bore, and a o.k. stock for $79. I know that I could get one cheaper, but I actually was able to play with this one prior to purchase, and other than a slightly chipping finish on the stock, the metal and bore were equal to that of their more expensive offerings. The gun is from Inter-Ordinance and seems to function well, but should I have the head space checked or any other items checked prior to firing? The numbers do not match, but I did not want to spend the extra $30-$50 on my first gun. If this one goes well then a C&R is in my future. I still feel like I ripped off the store, by buying a nice little rifle for next to nothing. I plan on tinkering with the stock to refinish, and using this for a pig/deer/coyote gun that I can treat a little rougher than a $500 gun. I am hoping for a decent group at 100 yards. Is this going to be possible? I am not looking for a tack driver but good useful accuracy for the above. (coyotes will not be at that range if I have my choice.) Great forum, and thanks to every one for all of your postings.
 

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You should have all used firearms checked by a gunsmith before you fire them. You should also research it in the various boards because not all old weapons can safely fire all ammunition that they might be able to chamber. Sometimes the specs for a weapon were changed in later models so that the newer ones could handle greater pressures for instance.
 

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SuperDave,

God that name brings back memories of the Smother's Bros.!!!!!!

Anyway, I have an excellent site for you and Jamie on surplusrifle.com has experience on these Russian Mosin Nagants....so enjoy. You will want to find out how to strip it down to clean the action, barrel and stock..........................

http://www.surplusrifle.com/downloads.asp
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, for the advice, and again my common sense answer was the one reflected in the forum. I had a chance too look at it and it is a Russian, with hammer & sickle with a wreath I will need to check the other numbers and let you know. It is a 1946 M-44, but it does have the metal inserts in the sling holes, while some I looked at only had holes in the wood. Does this help with the plant for the stock?
I have been to surplusriflle.com and it is a great sight that sight actually pushed me into the mil-surp direction. I have down loaded that gun and bolt
take down pages and looked at most there.
I am comfortable with the disassembly of most weapons and have taken every gun I own apart for a good cleaning at least once. I know safety is first and most important, and I do not want to sound like an inbread small town guy ( which I am minus the inbreeding) but what is a gun smith going to do to the weapon other than checking the headspace, and stress cracks etc.
When you are blessed with David as a first name there are not many who haven't heard it at least once, and it makes a simple screen name with little or no thought.

Thanks
 

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Wait until you take the bolt apart on the Nagant! What a puzzle. Quiet ingenious, but it beats me up everytime I do it. For me, it's a good way to pass a rainy afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the heads-up, but the pictures made it look so simple. Just push and twist and BAM! complete bolt.
How do your rifles shoot, and are they matching guns or random samples like mine?
I have also seen / read that it is simple to jam the round while loading. Should I buy strippers or learn to hold my mouth right?

Thanks ,
David
 

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SuperDave93, you asked what is next. Well, I would recommend that you go to a good gunshow that has good deals on surplus ammo and buy 500 rounds for general plinking. Then if you are a reloader buy a hundred rounds of brass, some bullets and start loading for an accurate load to increase the accuracy of your rifle.

What many don't understand is that military surplus firearms are usually well made by major companies under important government contracts. Usually, military acceptance commisions have fussed over the smallest design details and what you end up with is a very well engineered, quality product (for the price) that will supply over a lifetime of service.

You have the right attitude. Use it in rough situations and enjoy it. Too many folks only take $2000+ firearms to the range and don't have anything they would actually take out in field conditions.

The bottom line is ENJOY! That is what should be next!
 

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M44

Superdave: I would follow Robert357's advice on picking up shooting supplies but I would add a cautionary note to that. You can find a lot of mil-surp ammo at the gun shows but that is not always the best quality ammo you can find. It is only mil-surp and may not give you the accuracy you want.

Sellier and Bellot, as well as some Russian manufacturers are producing new, non-corrosive and reloadable 7.62x54R ammo in both fmj and hunting form.

Be aware that the bore diameter on the 7.62x54R is .308, not .310 or .311. If your bore slugs out to the larger diameters you may want to trade it off for one with a tighter bore. It is not recommended to load .311 bullets into the 7.62x54R due to the chamber size.

I would find some quality ammo first to see how she groups and then pick up some mil-surp stuff for fun and plinking.

My brother purchased a Polish made M44 that wouldn't group for schmidt after the first two rounds. We found that by removing the bayonet assembly first she would group 10 rounds on point at 50yds but the next ten opened the group a bit. The we bedded the beast and she just shoots to point of aim out to 100 yds all day long, and groups very, very nicely at that. Hope this helps. Mikey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the help, and advice. I picked up a couple of boxes of Barnaul (Russian hunter on the box) to use, and I hope to try out the m-44 this weekend. I will eventually be refinishing the stock, and is bedding a simple process, or fairly involved. I know the basic idea of it, but have not seen it done or know anyone who has. If you have a link let me know and I might give it a go while I have it apart. Also I know the surplus ammo is usually corrosive, and have read how to clean it right after shooting with ammoina etc., but are there any other tips for protecting the gun. Thanks again to everyone for the help.


David
 

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First of all congrats on your purchase. I like to shoot the russian made 7.62x54 soft point ammo its 204gr. And at SOG(southern ohio gun) 800-944-4867 the part #AMO-7654SP $5.79 a box cheap enough for practice too. For plinkin there is cheaper surplus ammo at AIM. When you actually hunt you can use S&B ammo like Mikey said too. I just hate to use too much S&B ammo for targets but it is more accurate. I would site the gun in with S&B then shoot the cheaper stuff(practice/plinkin). If you can afford to shoot S&B all the time by all means do it I'm just too Frugal at times/now. BigBill

So whats your next buy/purchase?? any plans?? You will after you shoot this puppy and the collecting surplus rifles "disease" starts its like a voice we hear all the time and it never goes away!!! Buy!!! Buy!!!! Buy!! Buy more!!! you can't have just one!!!! he needs a buddy!! a friend!! in the cabinet!! (just kidding) but you will get the bug its fun enjoy!!! Welcome to the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No shooting this weekend .
I am going to get my C&R next, after looking in the shotgun news, I could have had a numbers matching VG-EXC gun for $79. I now know that it will pay for itself.
If this M44 does well then I will hopefull get a few more M/N type guns. Possibly a 91/30, another couple 44's, and possibly a 39. I assume that all of these will do better than my mis-matched gun, but you never know.
I am also looking at a K-31 straight pull. I have heard they are tack drivers, and the bolt system seems unusual. Is this a good gun for a novice, and is the ammo drying up or starting to arrive?
I know this will spark debates, but are the Turkish or Yugo Mausers that good or is the fuss just because they are Mausers? I am by no means against or for them, but the M/N's have better lines in my eyes by a slight margin. I am not looking for a fight, but just want to know.

Thanks yet again,

David
 

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Superdave93 said:
I am also looking at a K-31 straight pull. I have heard they are tack drivers, and the bolt system seems unusual. Is this a good gun for a novice, and is the ammo drying up or starting to arrive?
Milsurp ammo can be found readily and it is very accurate (GP11).

Ammo of Portugeuse manufacture can be found in quantity but it sucks.

Graf and Sons have supposedly just got some in made from Hornady brass. I don't know too much about it's accuracy. They also are rumored to have brass for it in April although they'll take your money now.

If you want soft nose, there is some Norma around but be prepared with a suitable lubricant to pay for it.

It is supposedly possible to form brass for it from .284 brass.

The only thing about it that might be tricky for the novice, in my opinion, is knowing when the bolt is fully closed ( serial number facing up and centered ) and the "safety". See:
http://swissriflewebsite.com/FAQ.htm
 

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I bought a Turk & it is great!!! The only less than wonderful thing is the wood feels a little rough. They were not sanded smooth. No biggie. It is very accurate with 180corelocs over 40 gr. of 4895 in a cut-down 30-06 commercial case.(Remmie)
I've owned Mosin-Nagants as well & the Turk is as accurate while operateing smoother than the M.N.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thaks for the tip on the turks. I guess it is typical, but I still have not been shooting yet to check out the M/N. I did however get the C&R application out and now waiting on the government. I think I will get a Turk just because of the price, but I do believe the K-31 will be next. I read on a couple of boards that the K-31's are drying up and quickly. Does anyone know if this is true, and also what condition are the typical Turks usually in?

Thanks
David
 
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