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Should work then...just out in the shop and noticed rust on the tires. Unicycle tube, did you say?
Yes. https://www.unicycle.com/commuter-36-inch-tube/

I only have them on when moving the carriage across concrete. I did not get them until I had rolled it across concrete a few times and did loose some paint but once I began using the tubes, no more paint loss. I could afford to re-paint to get them completely back to solid black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #662 ·
I am going to pay a little more attention to wheel cleaning. Mine is a heavy working gun, it will get scratched, it will get dirty. After I clean and oil the barrel I will oil the tires also.

I am going to feed the fish the the 4th and then disassemble the entire gun for painting. After that it will get stored while I build the next gun.
 

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1.did the fish get fed on the fourth? 2. you went to a lot of extra work that others do not and that is the mark of craftsmen vs wrench twisters. enjoyed every time i checked in on this thread loved the bit with the dog. BTW Im the guy that contacted you about the martini the day they closed the world down over our heads if it hasnt sold and you still want rid of it contact me. wanting to build golf ball rig and like the pictures of yours mine will likely be a table ornament when not being played with considering ac and all that what if any extra precautions would you recommend. thanks for your time
 

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Discussion Starter · #664 ·
I had a nice conversation the other day with the Guru of all things angle Grinder or own Zulu, and Michael gave me good advice on which wire brush wheel to use on the mortar to clean things up for painting.

Ignoring Michael.s advice I bought these abrasive wheels. I have been wanting to try these for some time.



So I did a test run.



They are abrasive and not scouring as a wire wheel. They do clean up the the metal quite well, but the appear to be removing metal as they round square corners. I tried them on wood, they remove the soft wood between grain ring faster than the harder ring. Wood also tends to load the wheel.

My order for wire wheel has not came in yet. We'll see how they work.
 

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Have you tried the Roloc wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #668 ·
It appears from looking at google Roloc is a multifunction system from 3M system for material prep. it uses an extension and rigid backing wheel to give better control on the process---such as the rounding I experienced in the quick test of my cheap blue wheels.

I think if I were using the angle grinder on a regular basis I would look into this system. It looks pretty comprehensive.

What I am about to do a combination of the wire wheel and these blue abrasive wheel will be fine for the metal prep. I will use the belt sander on the wood work.

Thank George, great idea.

 

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Discussion Starter · #669 · (Edited)
I had a text message this afternoon from Trey about what thickness metal I used to make the hardware on this mortar. Per my usual, instead of just saying, 3/8", I gave him 1500 words on how I made this hardware, from memory. So Trey here is how I really did it. How good was my memory?

Re: K.I.S.S. bowling ball mortar

Picked up a couple of pieces of 4 1/2"OD x 3 3/4" ID x 3" long DOM to make cap squares and trunnion plates.



...
Re: K.I.S.S. bowling ball mortar

Nothing much going on tonight, nothing on TV, so i went out and worked on the capsquares/trunnion plate rings.

I bored the rings out so the trunnion slips fits.





Fits!



It's bed time, good night!
Found out the next morning I made these rings just a shade to tight. They were slip fit, still warm from boring, right off the lathe. The next moring when they cooled they fit. Opened them up a bit more and everything was fine.

Re: K.I.S.S. bowling ball mortar

Picking up the carriage and the trunnion plate/caps squares up tonight.





Tomorrow I will drill the holes in the plate for the mounting screws.
Welded the 3/8" strapping on to make capsquare and trunnion plate
Re: K.I.S.S. bowling ball mortar

Quick progress report. Stopped at my friends on the way up here to Montana. He has a vertical bandsaw. I now have capsquares and trunnion plates!

So Trey, how did I do?

Did I remember it like I said in the text---sorta? :)
 

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Your memory rocks !! I have 4” trunnions to work with. Plan to us DOM for cup and cap / 1/2” thick. I found with my previous build what started out as 3/8” trunnion plates kept getting thinner with the sand and smooth to get them acceptable. They did not end up 3/8”.

With the mortar being pretty beasty, I’m inclined to start thicker than 3/8” on the flat stock.
 

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Trey,
When I built the Alamo carriage, I made the trunnions 4" diameter like the original. For the capsquares, I used a piece of schedule 40 pipe with a 4" I.D.. It had a 1/4" wall thickness. I took a piece of 1/8" plate, heated it red hot and bent it around the piece of pipe. When everything was cut to size, I welded the 1/8" piece to the 1/4" piece and made capsquares that are 3/8" thick.
Same thing for the trunnion pocket.
Does that make sense?
Zulu







 

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Discussion Starter · #673 ·
With the loss of 10 years worth of photo's due to the cloud fire, I kind of lost enthusiasm to add to this post. I and taking the gun down and finally getting around to painting.

When I took the trunnion plates off I found that they had not been welded correctly. I had to get that corrected. I also need to drill all the holes out changing from 1/4" lag screws to 3/8".

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After dismounting the the barrel I found a couple of spots in the seat on the base where the barrel had been bearing and cleaned them up.

252906
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I talked with Zulu about painting the wheels and he informed me that Cheryl paint the wheels the base color then paint the metal bands with a artist brush. This is a replication of a British field traveling carriage. The British painted their carriage all one color, gray or white. They did not paint their hardware a separate color. I'm liking that idea at least for the wheels.
 

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Looking good Douglas. The fresh paint on the lag screws caught my eye having recently primed the 58 bolts and nuts for the mortar bed I’m working to finish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #675 · (Edited)
One of the concerns I have with this K.I.S.S design is corrosion and rust developing between the plug and barrel. With the pop can and golf ball designs, I have not seen as lot of problems. Being smaller they are easier to take apart and clean.

We discussed this issue in regards to the bowling ball barrel several years ago. and it was pretty much agreed that I should look at some means of sealing the joint between barrel and plug. I think we decide at the time, that when I did final fit and finish I would use high temperature permatex muffler sealant. As thing progressed final fit and finish got delayed, but the gun still got shot..

Final fit and finish is happening now.

I pulled the barrel last week and tried to remove the plug, I couldn't. I had to drive the plug out as it was corroded in place,
252953


I finished pulling every thing apart yesterday. and here is what I found.

First the exterior.

252954


That mark on the band is where the barrel rests (bounces) on the quoin. That rust on the end of the barrel is the lowest point of the barrel when in the carriage and would be were any moisture transit and run off. I checked the wood under the barrel and there is water staining.

With plug out of the barrel is is pretty clear that moisture is getting between breech plug barrel.

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This the bottom view above of the breech plug and it you can where the moistures ha be pooling.

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The moisture trail is also easily seen inside the barrel. This is the bottom and the white spot is where the sun is shining through from the vent hole on on top.

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The top of the barrel under the breech plug isn't real bad.

When I moved down from Montana the barrel was transported on an open trailer. The last day of travel we encountered storms and the mortar was exposed to the rain for a couple of days before I could get it unloaded. The bore and breech plug did rust as a result. I suspect that two days of water pouring over this gun did not help. I know the bore was red with surface rust as a result, at the time.


252958


Those blue sanding disk for the angle grinder work pretty good on clean up.

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I have to pick up a couple flap sanders for the bore of the breech plug and barrel.

I had talked about treating this wood with the thin epoxy used for treating wood rot. I have been giving some thought to skipping that. Now seeing where moisture got in this gun I think I am back on track using the epoxy before painting.

Something else I an considering is greasing the raw metal of the breech plug and barrel with RIG. It won't stop the metal from rusting, but it will slow it down. Once the greased breech plug is in place,, then I will seal the front of the breech plug with Permatex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #679 ·
I picked up a air powered die grinder and got after the rust and corrosion in the barrel.

253104


I started with a flap sander disc but that wasn't aggressive enough. I got a couple of these paint stripping disc and tried them-perfect.

The bottom interior of the barrel appeared to have some serious rust and corrosion build up.

253105


While there is rust present this appears to be more a collection of powder fouling, it is very black and not red when cleaning. The Vent is at 12 o'clock and this area is at 6 o'clock to the vent-the bottom of the barrel interior.

I have finished with the stripper wheel and will now go back and polish with the flap sander.

Even though I plan on sealing the top of the breech plug, I also think I am going to cut a drain groove from the plug seat ring to to the end of the barrel. Can't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #680 ·
Re: K.I.S.S. bowling ball mortar

Douglas, Have you considered milling a flat on the trunnion where it bolts to the plug? Dom
Very early in this discussion the question of needing a flat on the trunnion came up. I didn't feel a flat was needed. We had a very nice discussion about this. Go to post 11 by clicking on the link above to Dominick first post and read through the following post. You will find a very interesting discussion from the very knowledgeable people we have on this board.

But in the end I decided that the machining of a flat on the trunnion was not warranted.

While painting the tube this morning I found marks where the trunnion bares on the bottom of the tube. This set back is often found in the locking lug ring of old bolt action rifles. It is normal if the rign is only case hardened or not harden at all. It is not consider hazardous unless it creates excessive head space.

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You can see in the second phot it has displaced metal into the circumference of the bore. I check the trunnion and can not find the corresponding contact point

I checked both the barrel seat and the breech plug seat for deformation and can not find any displaced metal.

I do not see any reason for concern.

I painted barrel and breech plug today.


253385
 
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