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Looks good Douglas. Nothing like a fresh coat of paint to clean things up.

Are you going to stencil "This Is Necessary ! " on it now?
 

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You can see in the second photo it has displaced metal into the circumference of the bore. I checked the trunnion and can not find the corresponding contact point.

If there is any deformation of the trunnion, it would be on the side opposite to the spotfaces for the bolt heads at tube diameter. Since we don't know what the strengths of the two pieces of steel are, it is possible that the tube is less strong than the trunnion so the deformation occurred solely in the tube.

It would be interesting to know how deep the divot is and if there is still any clearance between the trunnion and the breech plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #683 ·
George, there still is clearance between the trunnion and the breech. I am going to assemble the barrel today. I will tighten the trunnion down over a section of the barrel not deformed then measure the gap. Then turn the trunnion into position which is over the deformation, tighten the trunnion down and measure the gap again.

The way this works the trunnion should not touch the breech plug only the barrel. The bolts in the trunnion pull the breech plug down against the seat in the barrel.

I am going to try to cut a groove with the angle grinder from the seat ring in the barrel to the bottom of the barrel. This groove 180 degrees from the vent is to drain moisture from the seat.

When I assemble the barrel I am going to apply a thin layer grease to the outside of the breech plug and the corresponding surface in the barrel. Once the barrel is locked in place I will apply muffler pipe sealant around the seam between the face of the breech plug and barrel wall. The vent liner and breech plug bolts will all have never seize added to their threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #684 ·
I cut a drain groove at 6 o'clock, 180 degrees from the vent which should be the lower point of the barrel to allow moisture to drain.

253409


I also painted the interior surfaces to help impede the formation of rust and corrosion in the these "joint" surfaces.

I am also considering adding thin coat of rust preventive grease over the paint as additional protection. Any comments on that Idea?

I want the paint to cure a couple of days and I will assemble the barrel. I will take those measurements George suggested then.

I thought this would conclude the metal painting. I forget the axle and brackets, the lunette and the base cross bolts. So In need finish breaking down the base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #685 ·
George,

I measuredthe gaps for you by sliding feeler gauges between the trunnion and breech plug. I did the measurements adjacent to one the caps screws.
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First measurement was with the breech plug and and trunnion turned over an uncompressed section of the barrel.

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Then I rotated the breech plug to align the trunnions over the compression and installed the vent liner. As I turned the breech plug and trunnion I could "feel" the trunnion settle into the compression. I could "feel" resistance turning the trunnion out of the compression.

Gap between trunnion and breech plug in the non compressed area was .008 go, .009 no go. Gap in with trunnion in the compressed area was .005 go and .006 no go.

253427
 

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Don't suppose you measured the width of the deformations.
 

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How about one more measurement? Breech plug to trunnion at the outside edge, not next to the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #690 ·
How about one more measurement? Breech plug to trunnion at the outside edge, not next to the bolts.
Breech plug to trunnion, out of groove next to barrel .008 no go, .007 go.
Breech plug to trunnion in groove next to barrel, .006 no go, .005 go.

I think part of the difference is the paint getting scratched away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #691 · (Edited)
I am delayed right now waiting for new wheels for my lift cart . The original wheels disintegrated. When I get those wheels I can move the barrel out of the way and I will have room to sand and paint the wood.

When I get it done what am I going to do with it?

I know I want to run it down to Texas and shoot it with Trey and the GoW mortar.. Now that I have a new truck, transportation is no longer an issue. Going down there is a reality.

Where to shoot it here is an issue. If I were still in Montana, that would not be a problem. South Paw and I shot cannons several times a year on his farm. I suppose I could park it in the storage locker. If I do that it would probably next be seen at my estate auction-going try make that 20 or so before that happens.

I am also considering moving it on, anybody in the market for a bowling ball mortar? Know anyone who wants a bowling ball mortar? I am actually considering taking it to the 20th Anniversary celebration of the Victorian Rifleman's British Militaria Forum in PA in March and hang a for sale tag on it.

This a dandy gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #692 ·
I got the new wheels on the the lift cart this morning and was able to move the barrel out of the way so I can work on the carriage. Removed and disassemble all the metal work. Sanded the quoin and painted some more fasteners. Laid all the fasteners out.

Typesetting Wood Gas Font Rectangle


Missing are 2 trunnion cap screws, vent liner and 2 axle washers. .Total pieces 128.
 

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Discussion Starter · #695 ·
Re: K.I.S.S. bowling ball mortar

I was in the Marine Trades for many years & my brother still does some. He highly recomends Smith's Penetrating Epoxy Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer He says if you soak the exposed end grain it will wick all the way through the wood, displacing the moisture. Then water can no longer enter to cause rot & paint peeling. I called him to get the name of the product.
He says this is superior to West Systems epoxy.
Well it is time to use this stuff. Flagman1776 recommend it a few years back. His health was declining and we haven't heard from him in couple of years, but his knowledge and experience is still with us.

I picked up the filler and penetrating epoxy a while back.

I have always regretted my choice in wood for the base, but at the time it was all that was available to me. The wood is fir. It is plenty strong but has propensity to end and edge chip and splinter

I am going to use the Smith filler and repair chip outs and holes.
Insect Wood Trunk Moths and butterflies Flooring


Table Wood Rectangle Trunk Floor


I also have some warping on the axle molding. I am going to fill the cracks with the filler and sand smooth.

Wood Hardwood Plank Flooring Wood stain



After all the fillers cure them I will go over the base with the penetrating epoxy. I will treat exposed end grain, corners and edges first and if I have enough left, I'll the entire bottom of the carriage.
 

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Douglas,
I think all this can be repaired with the filler you are thinking about. Fill it, sand it and paint.
The only other alternative is to replace. Not sure you have to go that far.
Paint is very forgiving. You can do it!
Zulu
 

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Discussion Starter · #697 ·
So while watching epoxy dry today, Decide to do some weighing.

Barrel 406 1/2 lbs.
Two base pieces 210 lbs.
Perch 10 lbs
Quoin 10 lbs
1 bucket nuts, bolts, screws and washers 40 lbs.
Trunnion plates 40 lbs
Wheels pr, 90 lbs.
Brackets, axles, plates and capsqaures 60lbs
Wheel mouldings 5 1/2 lbs

867 pounds or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #698 · (Edited)
Here is the patching process. When you start looking there are places to patch everywhere. This patch material is standard 2 part epoxy. Mix two equal portions and the spread on.

Any prepared surface I applied the epoxy, it stuck. Unprepared wood. like an old chip out where wood surface has had time to oxidize, and the surface of the wood was smooth the epoxy would pull away from and not stick unless pushed into the wood. Knots and cracks the epoxy stuck quite well. I used a drill bit and roughed the surface of chip out.

Some chip outs were large and I had to fill them. I tried leveling but this filler stiffens pretty fast. Instead of leveling with my scraper I built up the epoxy and will sand back level. There was some edge splintering and where that occurred I cut the splinter of and applied the epoxy.

Table Furniture Wood Floor Flooring


I have two one quart cans of the 2 part penetrating epoxy. My plan is to apply this epoxy first to all exposed end grain, then all corners and edges. If there is any left then I will apply to all exposed surface working from the bottom up.

I patched the moulding this morning. I push the filler into the cracks to give the epoxy patch some depth.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Flooring Plank
 

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Looking good Douglas. You likely know, offering in case not - often when sanding out a "good" epoxy, which it looks like you have, while trying to sand the epoxy flush to the the wood, the wood is softer than the epoxy and wood disappears faster than the epoxy. How fast wood and epoxy sand out can be driven by the type of sander and grit used. I'm confident you'll have it looking great soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #700 ·
Thanks Trey, I have been thinking about that. The molding I am not concerned about, I will do those on my 12 inch disc sander.

For the base I will get out my body files and see how the work. Back in college we used our dead long angle lathe files for fiberglass stocks. I have couple of those I can use also.
 
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