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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Newb here, sorry if this has been discussed on other forums already. I do not handload, so I am looking for something I can get in a box. My rifle has a 22 inch barrel and 1/10 twist. I've tried Hornady SST in 150 and 165 Grain and I cannot seem to get consistent groups. I've been seeing a lot of recommendation for heavier loads for this twist. Does this have any merit? Looking to not spend tons of money buying all sorts of ammo, trying to narrow down a few options.

Any suggestions?
 

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Trigger job is usually needed on the M77's. Easy to diy if you are capable. Instructions available if you need them. Tighten front mounting screw (first) to 60 in-lbs and rear screw (second) to 40. Check if barrel is free floated and not touching stock. Make sure magazine well is not binding between stock and action. 1/10 twist rate is no problem for any bullet weight factory ammo is available for. Are you shooting from sand bags on a bench or ___? Can you have a buddy shoot your rifle with same ammo to see if they get same or different results? Is the scope one that you have previously used on another rifle and proven to hold good groups or is it a brand new scope? Do you have other rifles that do group well for you?
 

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I originally had some good groups with Federal Fusion MSR 150gr but have since went the reloading route using a Sierra 168 grain bullet which is not really a hunting bullet but that's okay cause right now I'm making it strictly a target rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Trigger job is usually needed on the M77's. Easy to diy if you are capable. Instructions available if you need them. Tighten front mounting screw (first) to 60 in-lbs and rear screw (second) to 40. Check if barrel is free floated and not touching stock. Make sure magazine well is not binding between stock and action. 1/10 twist rate is no problem for any bullet weight factory ammo is available for. Are you shooting from sand bags on a bench or ___? Can you have a buddy shoot your rifle with same ammo to see if they get same or different results? Is the scope one that you have previously used on another rifle and proven to hold good groups or is it a brand new scope? Do you have other rifles that do group well for you?
Thanks Lt Dave for all the good info. I had someone look at my trigger who told me it wasn't adjustable perse but went through the process you describe I believe, and it was better after that. I will need to check the barrel and magazine per your suggestions. I bought this gun used with the scope already on it, it's a Nikon ProStaff so not high end but not low end either. I am a little suspicious of the scope as it seems to not take windage and elevation adjustments right away, but gets there after a shot or two. With the grouping being as bad as it is, I can't positively say anything is wrong with the scope either. I am shooting from a bench, haven't had anyone else shoot it yet, but I shoot much better with a few other rifles, so I don't think it is me.
 

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Definitely get your rifle and scope squared away first and use a good shooting rest. Then start over with basic ammo choices like Federal blue box jsp, Winchester Super-X or Hornady American Whitetail jsp ammo. These all seem to work well for many people/ rifles.



 

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I’ll be honest with ya I have one that looks like the day it was bought sitting in the back corner of my safe cause I can’t get it to repeat either… it’s a great gun if ya like 1” groups at 100 but I pretty much gave up on it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’ll be honest with ya I have one that looks like the day it was bought sitting in the back corner of my safe cause I can’t get it to repeat either… it’s a great gun if ya like 1” groups at 100 but I pretty much gave up on it..
That's not encouraging, but I would be good with 1 inch groups at this point. Maybe I can unload it to a dealer on a trade in :)
 

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I have not owned this model of Ruger but from others I have heard many times that they just are not very accurate . For some reason the much lower priced Ruger American rifles tend to be more accurate .
I owned a early M 77 from around 1973 that was very accurate but the later models and the 10-22’s are not what they once were.
jedman
 

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people tend to not be practical with accuracy. If a sporter weight gun shoot inch groups with a bunch of load developement you have a keeper. Most average around 1.5-2.0. I used to waste tons of reloading components chasing sub moa but found a good consistant 2 inch 5 shot group gun will handle anything out to 400 yards deer sized. Im not a big fan of rugers. Ive had probably 30 or more if you count 77s and #1s and could count the out of the box moa guns one the fingers of one hand and the moa guns with EXTENSIVE handloading on maybe two. Ive had more 77s that were stickers (and im talking over 2 inch) then all other brands combined. Before someone jumps thats even with trigger work and bedding on the bad ones. Had one 338 that wouldnt shoot anything under 3in and a 7 mag that that 338 put to shame. Matter of fact even a second 7mag that wouldnt shoot anything under 2 inch. So heres my advice. If something shoots 2 inch and your not shooting past 300 yards dont worry about it. If its shooting 3 inch groups take it to the gunshop and trade it. Its not worth the ammo or loading components a trigger and the time wasted on bedding which by the way hasnt done a whole lot to the terd rugers ive had anyway. Its to bad because i really liked the old tang safety guns but today wouldnt buy one at a give away price. If its on the used rack theres probably a reason its there. cool thing is there lots of Kool-Aid drinkers that think rugers are some higher end gun so you will probably get a good price for it.
 
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some early ruger 77s, had a high spot/rib down the center of the barrel channel.
design flaw from ruger. it hurt accuracy badly.
a barrel channel tool would knock this down in a few minutes. its under the barrel, so part of the stock you won't see. easy fix, if that's your issue. just a random idea.
 

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I’ll be honest with ya I have one that looks like the day it was bought sitting in the back corner of my safe cause I can’t get it to repeat either… it’s a great gun if ya like 1” groups at 100 but I pretty much gave up on it..
Whats wrong with 1" at 100yds? It is a hunting rifle isn't it? I have only seen one scope loose in my life. As for the trigger, no idea what you have but trigger control is necessary. Simply getting an after market trigger won't fix that. Shooting off hand with MTY chamber, have a friend balance a quarter on the end of the barrel. You should be able to dry fire withoug knocking the quarter off the barrel. If you can't, work on trigger control. Seem's no one wants to talk about trigger control. It's a problem with the trigger, way to go for most seem's to be an after market triggr;Trigger control is the job of the shooter! Check the bedding. I like a couple sheet's of typing paper to slide under the barrel from the front of the stock to the reciever. There should be no drag anywhere. Check the reciever. Tighten down the screws then back off the front screw slowly watching for the barrel to rise. You can see it right in front of the reciever but easier watching the barrel at the tip of the stock. barrel moving say's the reciever is in a bind. have the action properly bedded. In the end if you have a 1" groupoing rifle, I doubt any gun maker will help you if it's a hunting rifle, that's good in a hunting rifle especially with factory ammo. You want better, take up reloading! You reload and you create rounds for that rifle, not for every rifle belonging to some people that don't reload.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Whats wrong with 1" at 100yds? It is a hunting rifle isn't it? I have only seen one scope loose in my life. As for the trigger, no idea what you have but trigger control is necessary. Simply getting an after market trigger won't fix that. Shooting off hand with MTY chamber, have a friend balance a quarter on the end of the barrel. You should be able to dry fire withoug knocking the quarter off the barrel. If you can't, work on trigger control. Seem's no one wants to talk about trigger control. It's a problem with the trigger, way to go for most seem's to be an after market triggr;Trigger control is the job of the shooter! Check the bedding. I like a couple sheet's of typing paper to slide under the barrel from the front of the stock to the reciever. There should be no drag anywhere. Check the reciever. Tighten down the screws then back off the front screw slowly watching for the barrel to rise. You can see it right in front of the reciever but easier watching the barrel at the tip of the stock. barrel moving say's the reciever is in a bind. have the action properly bedded. In the end if you have a 1" groupoing rifle, I doubt any gun maker will help you if it's a hunting rifle, that's good in a hunting rifle especially with factory ammo. You want better, take up reloading! You reload and you create rounds for that rifle, not for every rifle belonging to some people that don't reload.
D Fisher, thanks for the response and additional advice. I would be very happy with 1 inch groups at 100, believe me. I'm dealing with 3 to 5 inch groups with occasionally an real flier. I only use it for deer hunting and don't shoot over 200 yards. I am going to be working with a gunsmith to go through it with a fine tooth comb to make sure everything is correct. I'm going to install a new scope as well, it's something I was going to do anyways so now I can also eliminate that. I really like the rifle as far as carrying it and comfort so I want to get it shooting well so I feel good about carrying it in the field.
 

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D Fisher, thanks for the response and additional advice. I would be very happy with 1 inch groups at 100, believe me. I'm dealing with 3 to 5 inch groups with occasionally an real flier. I only use it for deer hunting and don't shoot over 200 yards. I am going to be working with a gunsmith to go through it with a fine tooth comb to make sure everything is correct. I'm going to install a new scope as well, it's something I was going to do anyways so now I can also eliminate that. I really like the rifle as far as carrying it and comfort so I want to get it shooting well so I feel good about carrying it in the field.
dont want to burst you bubble but a 3-5 inch gun probably will never be a one inch gun. Unless it has some sentimental value if it were mine it would be sitting on the rack at the local gunshop and id move on to a different rifle.
 
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I have a Ruger 77 all weather that had the boat paddle stock. LEUPY VX1 3X9 x40 on the Ruger proprietary rings. Shot factory 130 gr Core lok ammo. 5shots clover leaf pattern. I did improve the feel and bedding of stock by buying a Hogue over molded pillar bedded stock and it's still lights out. I would also check those factory rings because they can be finicky. On a side note ive owned a Many 77 MKII rifles and every one was a very accurate shooter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So, update on the Hawkeye. I replaced the scope and shimmed the stock (old school alternative to expensive bedding work) It shot better but not great using the same Hornady 150 Superformance. I decided to try a heavier bullet, 168 Federal Premium Hybrid Hunter. First 3 shots were in the bull at 100 yards within 2 inches. I adjusted to be 2 inches high at 100 and put 2 more shots almost touching. I think I found what she likes.
 

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Whats wrong with 1" at 100yds?
I agree. Most should be thrilled with a 1.5” gun at 100….1” consistently is pretty darn good. My Hawkeye African in 6.5x55 shoots Accubonds into 0.9” for 5 shots. I’m pretty happy with that.


As for the trigger, no idea what you have but trigger control is necessary. Simply getting an after market trigger won't fix that. Shooting off hand with MTY chamber, have a friend balance a quarter on the end of the barrel. You should be able to dry fire withoug knocking the quarter off the barrel. If you can't, work on trigger control. Seem's no one wants to talk about trigger control. It's a problem with the trigger, way to go for most seem's to be an after market triggr
Yea, this is a good point. I have no idea if it applies here. I have spent hours throughout my life really understanding what a good trigger is, pulling triggers and shooting triggers of a variety of weights. I can tell you that my Hawkeye African is about the only gun in my safe that came OOTB with a trigger about perfect for its purpose.

Check the bedding. I like a couple sheet's of typing paper to slide under the barrel from the front of the stock to the reciever. There should be no drag anywhere.
I would argue this is incorrect for the Ruger’s I have seen. Most prefer some contact at the tip of the stock. I free floated one and it was a disaster.

I'm dealing with 3 to 5 inch groups with occasionally an real flier.
That it too much, but it tells us that likely you have a bedding or scope issue. Bad barrels shoot typically 2-3” unless obviously visually damaged.

So, update on the Hawkeye. I replaced the scope and shimmed the stock (old school alternative to expensive bedding work) It shot better but not great using the same Hornady 150 Superformance.
This tells me that the money on a pillar bedding job and quality scope might be well worth it. Midwayusa has some deals on Vortex Viper HS scopes right now, I believe.
 

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Might be right about pillar bedding. My only Ruger rifle was a mod 77 tang safety in 7x57. Absolutely loved the looks of that rifle and got the first one that came into Montana so I was told. Beautiful as it was it never shot worth spit. So one day just for the heck of it I got a box of 154 gr RN bullet's and it shot them great! Used that rifle a long time and never regreted it or the bullet's!
 
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