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Discussion Starter #1
I have a M1917 Enfield sporter that I plan to install a Timney trigger in. My gun is the six round version. I think this is the trigger I need to order http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=581285
(as soon as it is back in stock ) Just want to be sure I am getting the right one.

Is this trigger difficult to install?

For you M1917 fans (all three or four of you ) This is an Eddystone reciever gun in 30-06. The gun looks to have been rebarrelled to a two groove barrel at some point around WWII?
Bubba made an appearance later on. He shortened the barrel removed the sights, installed what looks to be a drop-in aftermarket stock and installed an honest to goodness old-school all steel Weaver K4 scope. I installed a cock-on-opening kit and the trigger pull is too light and unsafe. Just cock it and bump the stock on the carpet and...well...you know the rest. That's why I am getting a new aftermarket trigger.

I have no idea what to do with the gun. It is a training gun to practice refinishing both the wood and metal. Plus if I get rich and famous I can have the gun made into a 458 megashouldertrashereargisplittenloudenboomer.

Before I "fixed" it. The gun shot 1" groups at 100 yards with funky Remington 180gr green box ammo. After I replace the trigger I plan no other changes.

Thanks
ZM
 

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Looks like what you'll need. The 5 shot version of that trigger is for a 1917 with the floor plate straightened. That's a common modification. Makes the Enfield look more like the mauser, a bit less pregnant and the stock a lot slimmer.. The trigger blade of the 5 shot trigger is shorter out of consideration for the sleeker (shallower) stock. Believe me it's not easy to picture a 1917 and use the word sleek! There are a few minor differences in strikers and the trigger may have to be modified such that the safety pulls the striker back just a touch when it's applied. This is usually explained quite well on the instruction sheet included. It's a very easy installation.. One of my very favorite rifles is a winchester made 1917 altered to 300WinM. I had the rifle long throated and use nothing but 200 grain bullets. The 26 inch barrel easily generates 3000+ fps and with the Nosler Partitions, you don't find bullets back... This is the last word in killing power for me. I've bigger calibers but this one is just so easy to use and soooooo effective. My daughter likes to name rifles and this one is Mjalinor(sp), after the hammer of Thor.
 

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Zeke - I had a M1917, Winchester made, and love it. Liek the Gunnut69, I left my barrel at 26". She would shoot like no other 06 I have ever enjoyed - she preferred the fastest and heaviest loads I could put down that tube and usually put them inot less than one inch at 100m.

I sporterized mine with a Timney Trigger, a cock on opening kit, scoped it, had the floorplate straightened and Gunnut is right, she looks a lot slimmer and sweeter with the floorplate straightened.

I think that if I encounter another of those M1917s and it is in good shape, barrel and action, she will get sporterized for easy carry and field use - but I would leave the barrel at either 22 or 24". Just my thoughts. Mikey.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mine was cut to about 23". Bubba left a hacksaw mark about 3/8" right at the end of the barrel. Cut and crowned at 22" exactly.

Thanks
ZM
 

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I put a Timney from Midway in my 6 shot. It required only a little wood removal and works wonderfully.

Now I have a question. I wanted to put a Speedlock/ cock on opening into it but was told more than once that I could not have both a Timney and a Speedlock! Is that untrue? Where would that idea come from if so?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Shorty said:
Now I have a question. I wanted to put a Speedlock/ cock on opening into it but was told more than once that I could not have both a Timney and a Speedlock! Is that untrue? Where would that idea come from if so?
Don't know. I bought my cock-on-opening kit from Numrich. No mention of a "speedlock" kit.

I'm sure someone familiar with the M1917 will come up with the answer.

ZM
 

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The problem is that as the cock on opening cam is sut the striker is lowered. To give back the energy lost by cutting the cocking cam a stronger spring is inserted on the striker. The striker sear is now too far forward for the trigger sear to catch. Dayton-Traister makes a trigger/cock on opening combo but I have had really poor luck with their trigger.. Vowed to never use another. The last 3 I had to rebuild before I could get them to work properly..New triggers mind you!! Give timney a call or email and ask.. It's the surest way. I've used timneys before and like them a lot but the trigger in my enfield is not a timney.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just put back the OEM bolt ie: converted the gun back to cock-on-closing. It is a little weird getting used to but it will have to do until I can get a Timney trigger. Both Midway and Brownell's are out of stock.

ZM
 

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Trigger work

An original trigger can be worked over to make a fine pull. It will be a 2-stage military type when done. To proceed cut the cocking piece and sear to a slight foreward angle such that the cocking piece is not cammed back or moved foreward by pulling the trigger. Smooth the mating surfaces to mirror finish and as close to 100% contact between the two as possible. Now work on the humps on the trigger. Reduce the rear hump until the trigger breaks in the last tiny amount of rearward movement . The space between the humps determineds the difference in pull weight between the take up pull and the firing pull. You may or may not want to mess with the return spring. The trigger can be set up for a reasonable take up , say 3-4 pounds and a final pull of a tiny fraction over that. If , for example, you set it up for a 3# take up and a #4 final pull, it will feel like a #1 trigger pull. Such a trigger feels great, and is safe.

If the above does not make sense to you, buy a trigger.

Good luck
 

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I have a 1917 that was sporterized by BSA. Great shooter but the cut down mil stock is awful. Any suggestions on who makes an affordable sporter stock for these things.
 

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I've had great luck with the folks at Wenigs. Fred and the gang are great to work with and produce a really good product. A utility grade stock or even a laminated stock isn't too bad price wise if you do the install yourself..
 

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Thanks for the info. Those are just what I'm looking for.

I like the idea of the thinner stock. Besides installing the 5 round Timney trigger and straightening the trigger guard what else would be required to change to the straight bottom stock. Can the existing cartridge box be cut down or do I need a replacement?
 

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Have 2 1917. One is in a poly stock with a 22" 35 Whelen and the other is in a Fajen stock with the original barrel at 24". both have been modified and drilled and tapped for scopes. 35 has a Timney and the 06 has the original (soon to be changed). Have kept both cock on close because my 6.5 is the same. Easier to get used to when all 3 are same. Both 1917 are Eddystone and both have been reblued and have the bottom metal straightened.
 

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The magazine box will have to be notched and the trigger plate staightened in front of the floorplate opening. You'll need to get the floorplate welded but it's all fairly easy. I had a set of instructions arround here somewhere. If your interested I'll find them and post? The Enfields are really great rifles. The cock on closing is not a big problem but I prefer to convert mine. The action way too big for just a 303 or 30-06.. I always invisioned a 375 but still haven't convinced myself there is a pressing need around my house for such a cannon!..
 

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If you could post those instructions, that would be great. I'm not going to do anything until after hunting season because I'm sighted in for my loads. This winter I will replace the stock and I'll probably put a Timney trigger in when I do. I put a Timney in a Mauser a while back and it's great. The cock on closing on my 1917 doesn't bother me, but it definitely could use some slimming down so those instructions will be a real help.

Thanks..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
gunnut69 said:
I always invisioned a 375 but still haven't convinced myself there is a pressing need around my house for such a cannon!..
I looked into the possibility of a conversion to a magnum length 375-416-458 Eargisplittenshouldertrashinloudenboomer. The cost of such a conversion is about the same price, give or take a few $, as getting a M70 Safari or a CZ550.

I bought a 45-70 BC to hunt Godzilla and plan to keep my M1917 a 30-06 for the foreseeable future.

ZM
 

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Any suctom rifle is a costly thing,, I'm lucky in that I can do a lot of my own work. Saves a bunch of money!! A 375 conversio9n really requires little action work other than the rebarrel to a magnum case as thet feed about the same as a 300 win or 7mm Rem..except a little longer of course.. I still haven't done it of course. When the 1917's and P14's were dirt cheap I always had something else to buy. Now they aren't so cheap any more! I've one that's a 300WinMag and I love it. Shoots great and kills like lightening bolts!!!
 
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