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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently found a used stainless steel frame for sale. The price was right so I bought it. When I got it home I began to check it over more closely, and found that the internal hammer block won’t allow the hammer to contact the firing pin. This happens about half the time when I pull the trigger. (Worked fine when I checked out the frame at the store) Is there some type of simple adjustment that I can make or would it be best to send the frame back to T/C?
 

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when a barrel is put on the frame, it will push the interlock back so the hammer will strike. On one of my frames, it doesn't contact with no barrel installed, but as soon as a barrel is on, no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My blued frame operates like that. My problem with the stainless frame occured with the barrel installed.

I believe all the stainless steel frames are of the easy open design. Don't have the serial number here with me at the moment, but as I recall this particular frame was produced in the first 6 months of stainless steel production, in 1994.
 

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Have you checked the locking lug engagement?

I have a frame which only works if I file down the locking lugs. Use a marker and color the locking lugs. Open and close the action several times. If the engagement shown on the locking lugs isn't past the half-circle cutout, you will need lower locking lugs. I have a frame that only fires with locking lugs that I have filed down. I think TC also has lower locking lugs, because this is a common problem. I intend to return it to TC to see what they offer. I don't want to use lower lugs on all of my I forgot how many barrels.

I was too dumb to suceed with the method that I mentioned above. The engagement was so bad that I didn't believe I was doing it right. I didn't see an imprint. Duh????? I later removed the trigger group and watched the engagement of the locking lugs. Boy was I suprised. The lugs barely engaged at all. I took a file and lowered them fairly easily and the problem was solved.
 

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Yes all SS frames are easy opening. And Foxpro outlined the most likely problem pretty well (although according to T/C, the parts he's refering to as lugs are actually called bolts...the lug is the part that's welded to the frame that the split bolts fit into). a 1/4" diamond-eze or gunsmith needle file will do the job well, IF that's your problem. There are lots of other possibilities so make sure you have an engagement problem before you start grinding the bolts down. Many times you have a "gunk" build-up problem that makes the safety interlock stiff so the bolt spring can't center it. Gun appears to lock-up okay, but since interlock is not centered, safety block can't fall and keeps the hammer from hitting the firing pins. A good cleaning and everything starts working again. I'd start there, and while you have it apart, you can check the lock up as foxpro talked about (you'll have to drive the pin out to take the barrel off if you remove the trigger guard). Brownells makes a great set of drifts & punches to make removal of all the pins easier, Bellm's web site has a good article on doing this, and a good set of exploded drawings is essential if you've never done it. I've seen them posted at okiegunsmith.com or stevespages.com plus check this web site for other threads about this subject for other info and more obscure problems.
Helicopter Bill
 

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hammer block

I'm not sure if this is the same thing that happened to me but it sure sounds like it. On my frame, purchased new, I got home and the hammer would not drop all the way to contact the firing pin half the time. The "falling" hammer block didn't fall all the way down and the hammer would just catch the top edge. A couple of drops of oil would get it out of the way for about 10 shots at the range before re-oiling.
I decided to disassemble the frame and check it out. I found that the "falling" safety block piece was a cast or metal injection molded component that had a wicked flash line around the middle, like a little metal belt. I stoned the flash off of the piece so all sides were flat and smooth, cleaned the grit off, reassembled it and I have not had another "hang up" since.
Most of the rest of the internal parts were also cast/molded. Just about as strong as machined parts but cheaper to buy in large quantities. If they don't finish the parts with nice ground surfaces then these "snags" are probably pretty common. And easy to fix.
 

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hammer block

I'm not sure if this is the same thing that happened to me but it sure sounds like it. On my frame, purchased new, I got home and the hammer would not drop all the way to contact the firing pin half the time. The "falling" hammer block didn't fall all the way down and the hammer would just catch the top edge. A couple of drops of oil would get it out of the way for about 10 shots at the range before re-oiling.
I decided to disassemble the frame and check it out. I found that the "falling" safety block piece was a cast or metal injection molded component that had a wicked flash line around the middle, like a little metal belt. I stoned the flash off of the piece so all sides were flat and smooth, cleaned the grit off, reassembled it and I have not had another "hang up" since.
Most of the rest of the internal parts were also cast/molded. Just about as strong as machined parts but cheaper to buy in large quantities. If they don't finish the parts with nice ground surfaces then these "snags" are probably pretty common. And easy to fix.
 
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